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  #1  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:40 AM
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TRANSMISSION LEAKING- TIPS?

78 300SD.
Transmission is leaking: looks like the dipstick line (right at bolt, I will get new washers and see if that works)

main concern: Looks like it is leaking somewhere on the torque converter? I only see light oil on the converter "ball" on the frontside closest to the engine. do these torque converters have a drain plug that could be leaking or a o-ring gasket on it? the pan is clean and dry.

thanks!

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  #2  
Old 08-20-2009, 10:30 PM
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The 123 300Ds have a draing plug somewhere on the Converter. I have not looked for mine so I do not know what is used to seal it.

If it is the Front Seal on the Transmission Input Shaft the only way to change it is to pull the Transmission. The other option is to try something like Lucas Transmission Sealer and Conditioner and hope it helps.
I put the Lucas stuff in my trans and it got rid of most of the 1-2 harsh shifting I was haveing and reduced my leaking by 1/4 of what it was (my front seal needs replacing).
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:38 PM
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there is a metal washer on the tq. please do yourself a favor and do not use a stop leak.
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
there is a metal washer on the tq. please do yourself a favor and do not use a stop leak.
What problems can occur when you use the stop leak?
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Old 08-21-2009, 12:54 PM
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I will not be doing the stop leak. I want to correct the problem, not hide it for a while.
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:07 PM
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I don't know if there is a washer at the bottom of the dipstick tube, there is on later model transmissions.
The torque converter does have a drain plug, replace the seal ring (a 10x14x1mm crush washer) on that too. Part #007603010100.
Otherwise, yes, a transmission removal is necessary to replace other seals.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
What problems can occur when you use the stop leak?
you run the risks of clogging valve bodies and other small orifices. there is a metal washer on the torque convertor drain. the dipstick will use an o-ring
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Old 08-21-2009, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
you run the risks of clogging valve bodies and other small orifices. there is a metal washer on the torque convertor drain. the dipstick will use an o-ring
Than so far I have beat the odds as my Transmission since I added the Sealer Conditioner works better than it did before I added it (I got the advice on this forum). I guess my transmission filter must be doing the job.
Also I did not put it in for the leaks I put it in to help the harsh shifting, which it did; an 80-85% dedcease in shifting harshness; but it added a slight flare in the 3-4th gear change.

It has been close to 2 years now since I put it in.
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Old 08-22-2009, 01:31 AM
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did you put "STOP LEAK in it or something like trans-x? im talking about stop leak its self.
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Old 08-22-2009, 02:16 PM
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The stop-leak and transmission tune-up products are primarily harsh solvents. Although it is unusual for a transmission to have buildup that will come loose and clog orifices, the solvent is not good for the internals.

What it does is soften seals, and help them to seal properly. For shifting problems, this can mean that pistons and timing devices will seal and actuate properly, for external leaks this can mean that the seals swell enough to seal the external leak.

The easy answer is that it is a bad idea for a simple external leak, because the external leak is merely an inconvenience and the additives will permanently alter/affect the internal seals. For an internal leak / driveability problem, what have you got to lose, it is merely delaying a rebuild anyway.
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Old 08-22-2009, 10:15 PM
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[QUOTE=babymog;2276178]The stop-leak and transmission tune-up products are primarily harsh solvents. Although it is unusual for a transmission to have buildup that will come loose and clog orifices, the solvent is not good for the internals.

What it does is soften seals, and help them to seal properly. For shifting problems, this can mean that pistons and timing devices will seal and actuate properly, for external leaks this can mean that the seals swell enough to seal the external leak.

The easy answer is that it is a bad idea for a simple external leak, because the external leak is merely an inconvenience and the additives will permanently alter/affect the internal seals. For an internal leak / driveability problem, what have you got to lose, it is merely delaying a rebuild anyway.[/QUOTE]

This was the main reason I used it. I felt the harsh shift would be causing more problems than the Sealer.
Also the stuff reminded me of pink STP. This makes me think that most of the effect is caused by increased viscosity (this would als decrease leaks).

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