Does anyone have old oil cooler lines that they replaced and would be willing to send me?
Lines can be bad or blown hoses. Going to try to make new oil lines with instalock hose. Need the ends that connect to the oil filter.

You can send me an email at candyman196@gmail.com


Thanks

hmmmm. my 85 D has a piece of black pipe hose clamped in it, and it of course failed (got me the car for 100.00...) I think I can send them to you. pm your address, and I'll figure freight.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I am not going to have them reinstalled with new crimped hoses. After spending 3 hours getting them out I decided to choose a different route. I only used a portion of the hard line ends. I flared the ends of the tubes then used Intalock hose and fittings. You simply push the hose on the Instalok fittings and you are done. No clamps. Its rated for 300 psi. I have used this in the past and its awesome stuff.Worked like a charm. No more hassle trying to get lines back in place.
Had to modify my flare tool slightly because the stock lines are just under 5/8 inch and the flare tool would not hold the tubing without modification to the flaring tool.
The problem I had was that the stock fittings on the oil cooler are very short with tight bends. Had a hell of a time getting enough space to flare. Works but I would like to change them with the ends from the oil filter side. Just a cleaner look.

Without the purchase of the flaring tool I only have about $30 in the lines and fittings.

any pics?

Yeah, Pics and the Hose number also.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would watch them for a while to be sure. oil cooler line failure is a sure way to kill a 617. you have seconds to shut down if it lets go on the highway.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

These hoses without any clamps is how the system was designed. I believe the hose is Goodyear. Nascar uses this type also. Its a very proven system and bullet proof. I used this type of fitting and hose system for my veggies oil.
If I had to do it again I would of just cut the metal lines just behind the motor mounts and pulled it all out in 10 minutes.
I'll get some pics.

Here are a couple of pics. These are available at most places that specialize in hose.

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10-20 tops. Even if it comes loose it takes some time for all the oil to pump out of the crank case. Ask me how I know:

3-18-2008, 170,000 miles


Thankfully I noticed the needle drop immediately, coasted to the emergency lane fast, and had it shut off quickly.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

How hard was it to flare the metal pipe and how good was the flare you produced?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Flaring gave me a couple of challenges. I had to grind down the flaring tool a little so the tool would grip the metal lines. The stock lines are just under 5/8 inch. That wasn't that big of a deal. I have a shop. The other was as you can see in one of the pictures, The stock lines on the cooler have a sharp bend in them with very little straight sections to stick in the flaring tool. It worked but it was very tight.This is why I am looking for used lines from the oil filter end, They have long straight sections. These were a piece of cake to flare. I also don't like the bend in the one picture and want to clean it up.
System works great though! I have driven it over 100 miles trouble free. Very confident that this will not fail. I did cover the rubber hose with another piece of hose split down the middle to protect the lines from any rub failure.

The brass fittings that the flare nut attaches to do not appear to be part of the instalock system. What size are they?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

5/8

Not sure, but maybe there is an instalock to flare fitting. Need to check into that. The flare is just a standard 5/8 flare fitting found at any hardware store.

I have not been able to find anything under "instaloc" but I did find Push-Lok by Parker Hannifin,
The fittings are 82 series and use 836 series hose. The fittings are re-usable and require no clamps or special crimpers.
The hose is rated at 250 psi and 300 degrees for petroleum oils, hydraulic oils and diesel when using the 82 series fittings.
Looks like a flare nut and flaring the tubing is the only trick.
I am wondering if the push-lock fitting could be brazed or silver soldered to the tube to get around flaring the tube?

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Darrell

1984 300SD "Ole Girl"
207K