Try this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F17tFS6ofzU

GOOD LUCK

Wow - this guy makes it look easy. Either I am a complete weakling, or there's something I'm missing in his install.

How is he holding the axle vertical like that?

WW, read your posts with interest. Some questions:
Did you soak the boots in hot tap water b4 slipping them in? Did you use a lubricant on the boot and the cone like Pledge?

If you read all my threads, I talked about removing all the Astorias and replaced them with Dormans. I like the Dormans better. They were a bit tougher to shove in but thats because they are sturdier.

If you did not soak and lubricate them, that maybe why they tore.

The first two boots, I soaked in hot tap water w/the cone. The last two, I soaked in near-boiling water, so it was really malleable.

I used Pledge on the cone and the boot.

I wasn't impressed by the Dormans at all (certainly splitting didn't help). The Astoria's aren't Febi-thick or anything, but they seem to move down the cone better.

I was surprised by the amount of force needed to move the boot over the cone...I'm a pretty strong, young guy and I was "bringing it" with everything I had, and then some...and was struggling.

The guy in that video clip - he's nonchalant, like it's no big deal. Unreal! :)

Circlip and Nut
 

JB,

Feed Back for clarification:
You've got to remove the Circlip and a Nut from the end of the Halfshaft before
the Spider with it's Ball bearings can be gently tapped off with a soft piece of
wood as a Buffer between the Rubber Hammer and the Spider?

Then once you've had as much fun as can be had with the boots...drive the
end of the Halfshaft back into the Spider and reattach the Circlip and Nut?

'Kinda like the Guy does in this Video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8iZpjPG4xM&NR=1

Or this one (those PRC guys are slick):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wHz5eQ9yzc&feature=related

[Spent an entire night on the porch rebuilding the joints on a Golf,Rubics Cube was easy by comparison.]

[QUOTE=compress ignite;2327083]JB,

Feed Back for clarification:
You've got to remove the Circlip and a Nut from the end of the Halfshaft before
the Spider with it's Ball bearings can be gently tapped off with a soft piece of
wood as a Buffer between the Rubber Hammer and the Spider?

Then once you've had as much fun as can be had with the boots...drive the
end of the Halfshaft back into the Spider and reattach the Circlip and Nut?


Hello,

I why does everyone want to stretch or tape there boots over the joint when they can just put it on WHY??? I did this to my dads car and its still running extremely well with no problems just the way it was before except with a brand new mercedes benz CV boot on it with the correct part number and there are no problems.
I had posted this method on two other threads just like this one and they seem to think its unsafe too, WHY why is it unsafe??? I'm weirded out here stretching your boots is not the correct way of putting em on they can stretch allot beyond there original shape or they can rip or even become weak to the point where they rip for the slightest thing and the original boots are not made for that, I'm pretty sure benz made the originals boots with this method in mind not stretching them over that's why you cant stretch them over without breaking them except they must use some kind of puller and presser.

I really should have taken some photos before I put it back in but...
first you have got to get the whole CV joint assembly if you will out of the car and on to a table before you can remove the joint from the rod that attaches on to the spider.

So to get it out of the car you need to remove the lock washer from the diff thats holding the CV joint and then the nut thats holding the other side on to the axle, you are removing the lock washer and the nut to get the thing out of the car so you can work on it on the top of a table.

The side that comes off will just pop out with a hard pull or if its stuck in there over time then you will have to use a harmer and a pice of plastic rod or strip of plywood , there are no nuts or washers when it comes to separating the CV joint, and yes its a great idea to use a rubber hammer, you are not removing it from the ball bearing meaning you are not removing the spider itself so you don't have to worry about the ball bearings jumping out and you not being able to put them in there place you are just removing the rod part from the CV joint on the end.

If you have any problems PM me at anytime or even email me pixelsblack009@gmail.com

Good Luck Jeremy Bret

CVJ Current Prices
 

From an email quote they sent me:

"$142.00 each axle
plus a core deposit of $75.00 each.
Plus freight (UPS ground) which is about $16.00 for one in the US.

core deposit of $75.00 is refunded when you return the core.

These are original Mercedes Benz axles that have been completely remanufactured:"

Just one more data point to consider when choosing - aftermarket boots or reman axles.

Mike Moon
...leaning towards 'rebooting'.

I just discovered (today) that the boot on one of my CVJ half-shaft fail after about 200K miles (no noise, yet). I'm having my indy put on a replacement CVJ tomorrow morning.

Hmm, very sad, indeed. Although, you can't really beat 200k miles.

When I called them, FWIW, they only offered me a $50 core. I still came out ahead by re-booting, but it was a bear and set me back more time than was desired.

The axle rebooting is easy if you have the right cone, coat it with pledge, and heat the boots in real hot water first. Then use two people to "flump" them over the can. I could probably do 6 axles an hour if I had to. :D

In other news, one of my axles I rebooted in June is ever so slightly moist with oil in one tiny part of one side of the boot, I am hoping it is not seeping oil. :o Close inspection will be made soon....

Aahhh...so, so easy. I'm clearly an idiot. Right cone, check. Pledge? Check. Heated boot? Check.

Easy? Nope - I struggled. :o