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#1
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starter motor ameture question
Hello,
I had removed the starter motor into pices, the cranking speed was very low and the battery runs out after 4 to 5 cranks, this is a 100 AMP cold cranking battery, the bottom of the armature is damaged: the wires from the armature's coil at the bottom are exposed and the coating had come off, the copper had got slightly brittle too where the coating had come off (note this is at the bottom not where the commutator is, you can see this if you look under the armature " at the bottom " ) I hope you know where I'm describing to you ![]() I was not alive when this had been happening and my father just told me when I had pulled the motor out and my father is not much of a mechanic, but then the IP timing had been set and set again by me and it starts ok and no smoke unlike earlier, belting grey smoke, the problem is the cranking now, all help is appreciated oh and the solenoid is good too ![]() |
#2
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Just get a starter from a wrecking yard and pull it's armature if you do not want to recondition that starter . You know have the commutator trued,new bearings if any appreciable slop and good brushes.
Much cheaper than any attempt to rewind the armature I would imagine.If the wrecker wants too much just look up one of the california firms selling good rebuilt starters fairly cheap as a price levering device with the wrecker.A lot of the time the have no clue on prices. |
#3
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Quote:
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96 E300d |
#4
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I have spoken with the Poster before and I believe he said he was in Shirlanka. Do not know if they have Junk Yards like here to pull from.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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Quote:
nope no junk yard here but they are a few places that recondition them I think we have to keep looking for a place, thanks for posting ![]() |
#6
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Quote:
Well me and my dad dont crank over say 10 seconds the most, usually its just 6 second each crank but I am not sure for how long the mechanic had cranked it had to be for a long time I understand he was very persistent with it though, some people are just retarded. Thanks for posting |
#7
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Sounds like the armature was dragging against the field coil shoes. This usually is caused by worn bushings allowing the armature to contact the shoes when cranking power is applied which causes a magnetic attraction of the armature to the field coils. The clearances are pretty tight and worn bushings will allow the armature to run off center. Be sure to install new bushings or it'll happen again.
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82 300SD 202K 82 300SD 233K 83 300TD 340K 82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof) 85 300TD 282K 83 300TD 197K |
#8
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Well the mechanic tells my dad the armature is perfect I think that's bull but my dad seems to believe him and not me and my dad wants to put it back the way it was (makes no sense) these mechanics in srilanka suck
Thanks for the posts Jeremy Brett |
#9
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Connecting several batteries together ( in parallel, I assume) will supply more current to the starting system. This would overcome high resistance in the circuit, causing the starter to turn normally. I think you might have faulty battery/starter cables or loose or dirty connections.
Also, have you load-tested the battery you are currently using to determine it is OK? If you are concerned about the coating loss on the armature windings, you can use some insulating lacquer on them, it comes in a small bottle with a brush. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
do you think having a new coil in the armature will make the crank more dynamic and do you think over time the conductivity or the magnetism of the metal reduces ? that made a light go on ![]() |
#11
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Metal doesn't loose conductivity
You're stretching,there.
New Brushes,Bushings and Bearings and the thing'll be as new.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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