I just got a 1984 190D... Lotsa questions!
 

I was trolling on Ebay...
I saw it, watched and waited...
And now its mine!
A 1984 190D. 175k miles.

Here are pics.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...MJBK6OYMpw.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...MdNBK6OYW3.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...mdBK6OZIEz.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...stmJBK6OZR.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...CbBK6OYge4.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...EMdNBK6OY0.jpg

Upside:)
Paid $560. A glovebox hunt turned up a huge stack of docs and receipts stretching back to new. Looks like one family owned it since new. Major money was spent on it, inc rebuilt transmission, and complete suspension, inc shocks and bushings!
We did a rough total of about $7k in receipts.
Oil pressure was maxed against the stop on the way home.
Sunroof works!

Downside:(
Paint is dull and matt. Interior has a few issues like drivers seat has a tear, and pass side pull handle missing. Only one window works!
Foglamp lenses are toast.
Biggest issues...
Engine will not turn off. Took me a frantic post in the Tech section to get it shut off!
Transmission shifts oddly. Looks like there is a linkage missing from throttle?
Ideas, thoughts and comments?

Congrats on the purchase. You scored.

Engine not turning off and trans shifting are most likely vacuum related. You probably have a leak somewhere in the system. There's a sticky with vacuum diagrams and plenty of threads to search about vacuum troubleshooting.

Windows are electrical and are fused in diagonal pairs, so two of them might just need a fuse changed.

I am a Diesel Virgin, so go easy on me!
Managed to snap a couple of pics...

Here is one of the linkage....

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...C04868Crop.jpg

The Yellow outlined one is disconnected at the left side... the ball end connector is missing.
Should there be a link between the two red ball ends?


On the injection pump side, I spotted this missing tube...
What does that part do?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04870.jpg

Goodness that engine looks weird compared to my w123.

Shutoff and possibly your shifting issues are all vacuum related. I'm guessing since you're visiting from the gasser section you have a mighty vac ;-)

I'm not familiar with the setup of a 190D. It looks great and the headlamps aren't hard to replace.


Oh and replace that hood star. It's missing its pride.

You found a much better deal than I did... and I watched Ebay.

Therefore, I hope your engine suffers some catastrophic failure and your cruise control never works.

Now that we're past that. The missing linkage is from your cruise control actuator and from throttle cable to transmission bowden calbe. Don't sweat it. As others have mentioned, the rest of your problems are from a FUBAR vacuum system. Find a diagram of your Vac system, print it, laminate it (tape works), and trace each section with a marker as you completely revise its integrity and connections.

ps.. you won't find much help on this forum for the w201 and 190d

Congrats! Welcome to the land of 201! You will find a great little machine in what may appear to be a minor mess - not to worry, you will not regret any of the work you do on this car!

Go through all the vac fittings and make sure they are connected and not busted. To determine what needs to be connected consult the 201 FSM vac diagrams. Write your chassis and engine numbers down (your VIN is showing in one of your pics) - you will need these when you are determining which modification/improvement/diagrams to cite. Yes there should be a link between your accelerator and bowden cable linkage - find one at a junkyard.

One owner is a good thing. The 201 was the most popular MB in the history of Daimler-Benz and rightfully so. But as with any old MB, they are money pits, so your junkyard will be a good shopping destination.

Again, congratulations - you are in good company here.

What a bargain! Those cosmetic issues are nothing to worry about, all easy to fix (minus the paint if you can live with it). Sounds almost all vacuum related, and yes you should have a connecting throttle rod where you circled. Welcome to the diesel discussion and congrats on a great buy!

Thanks everyone!
I looked again and that linkage pic is wrongly circled...:rolleyes: but I think you guys got the jist.

i would also check into why its riding so high, or maybe i just used to seeing my 16 valve W201

There is a missing link between the throttle and the left red circled post. The bowen cable tells the transmission the throttle position via that missing link. I would imagine that your transmission is shifting up through the gears prematurely. Until you replace the link, shift it by hand.

Put it in 2nd and it will start from a stop in 1st.
15mph - shift to 3rd and back to 2nd quickly to shift to 2nd
32mph - shift to 3rd
45 to 55 mph shift to 4th.




That car will last until you are just sick of looking at it, or you hit a deer.

Yeah, it was shifting thru the gears in about 20mph!
Sluggish is an understatement!
Do I have to buy the whole linkage, or can I just replace the end?

i have been unsuccessful in finding new linkage parts for sale anywhere ,however the dealer can usually get anything you need $$$$.

SasquatchGeoff has used the linkages from the 240d and 300d quite successfully.

Cool beans. Isn't this the most economical W201 ever?

- Peter.

Apart from the fact that its sitting on 14" wheels... Why is it sitting so high?
It has new shocks all around by the look...

Anything you can do to boost the power a little?

Well, I think the first thought is always get it back up to spec and then you can decide what you want to do.

First things first - fix that throttle linkages (and make sure that they're properly lubricated and adjusted). Fix the vacuum trouble in the engine compartment. Check / change your fuel filters (2x in engine compartment and the tank strainer). If the air filter is dirty, put a new one in. Beyond that, you can have the injectors pop tested and new nozzles put in if needed. I'm not sure about the OM601, but the later turbo OM60x's can get gunked up intakes from the combination of the crankcase breather line and the EGR system. I plan on cleaning mine when I do my injector nozzles. I'll probably also install a oil catch in the breather line when I do so.

Sounds like fun, and wow, nice deal! :)

It looks like the front of the car was jacked up to clean the engine. Look at the pics of the wet engine plus all of the water on the ground.


Other than that, the car should have 175-70-14 tires on it.

I think the paint can be saved and buffed out. You got nothing to lose. Try a couple of areas with polishing compound. I think you will be surprised.

Yeah, it seems to be sitting lower now.
Ok, so lets get started on fixing this baby!

Where is the vac stop valve?

Took a few more pics today...
Here a pic of the ride height sitting on my drive... the Battery was dead, so I took it out to charge it.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04875.jpg

Tire size is correct..
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04876.jpg

I gave one area a few mins work, and the dullness came off... a bit!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04874.jpg

The dash is badly cracked... I will maybe find a better one someday!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04877.jpg

Here is the linkage bar from the throttle (On a diesel, its not!) to the Transmission.
One end is missing, and the other is cracked....

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04879.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04881.jpg

Can you buy the ends?

Not from anyone I have tried... Those things break if you look at them too hard...

Junkyard is the best - keep the old ones for length matching - you'll want to set them the same dimension - chances are the junkyard finds will be from some other application on some other car (like gassers and 300SD's for instance) - but the technology is the same.

Crap.
Any idea what a new one from the Stealership would be?

Anyone have a Manual on CD?

"Officially", that is an item that should be obtained from MBUSA.

Good find :). Looks like an original Calif car with the blue plate.

check with the PNP type yards, there are a bunch of 190`s now that the Clunker program condemed them. I see 190`s with perfect interior and low milage. so the dash should not be a problem.

I think there was a mention in a thread of using the ball ends the 126 and 123 use. If they won`t adapt to your rods, I think a rod can be cut and the end rethreaded to fit. the metal end last forever if kept lubed.

Charlie

Thanks guys..
I have been looking on the EPC, but am confused about the part #...
Any ideas?

the clunker program could not have condemned them, they get to high of fuel mileage. even the gas ones

my 16 valve is even rated to high

I spent an hour on the front end paint... the drivers front fender looks like its been half repainted, and you can see it in this pic, where it was blended out..

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04875.jpg
Recharged the battery, and its holding 12.5V, so I think thats ok.
Its the weekend, and lots to do..
More later....

I know it sounds crazy, but go into a model store, the type that would sell R/C Cars etc. They will have exactly what you need to make up a new linkage for your throttle. Just keep the old one so you can use it to make an estimate of the original length.

Yep, In fact I thought of that on thursday... drove all the way there.... it had gone bust, and closed!

Help needed on the Vacuum pipe to stop valve... anyone?

I don't have a manual yet, its on order... anyone know if there should be a vacuum connector on this part?

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04870.jpg

Search for the Atlanta frybrid thread, contact the seller and ask him about this line in his ad:

-upgraded metal throttle linkage ball ends from 123 (dealer) to replace silly plastic ends

Here is a Photo of the Vac dagram under the hood...
Item 4.13 is the stop valve.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04901.jpg

So, following the Vac diagram above, I followed the Brown/Blue vac line under the airfilter housing and at the first Rubber Connector(Drivers side between headlam and brake booster) I seperated the joint and attached a Vac pump.
Started the engine, and applied Vacuum..... the motor stopped!
So, I assume the Vac stop valve on the Injection pump is good(It held vac too).

I then pulled out the Instrument cluster and followed the line to just above the ignition switch. I pulled the connector off there and applied a vacuum.
The Pump lever moves.

What next?

no vac line needed
 

Your photo shows the altitude compensator (not the correct technical name) and that nipple stays open to the atmosphere. You've already figured out that the vacuum control unit stop is underneath.

If vacuum to the brown/blue line shuts off the IP, then there is either a leak in that line (bad rubber coupler), or a leak in the brown line from the vacuum pump to the ignition starter switch valve, or that valve itself is bad.

I have been watching ebay on and off looking for a rust free clean body to transplant the mechanicals and interior from my 84 190D, and did not see your car. I would have bid up to $750, especially for the blue body color. Congrats to you for getting it:)

Looks like the left rear fender was repainted.

Potomac German Auto in Frederick MD might have the interior pieces you need.

Thanks!
I checked the Vacuum pressure at the T from the brake booster and get about -23psi.
Upon searching, the Green Vac line seems ok, and firmly attached, but I did find a Black Vac line floating free in the fusebox area...

vacuum
 

That black line goes from the vacuum control valve on the side of the IP ( different from the vacuum control unit stop on top of the IP) to the interior of the car under the dash. It is a vent line open to air inside the car. Maybe you can push it back through the firewall.

Performanceproducts dot com catalog lists the 201 FSM CD for $60, and the Haynes 190E manual for $18.

An ebay seller is selling the paper 201 chassis and body FSM and the 102 engine FSM as a set for $130 shipped.

Also on ebay is a dash overlay plastic piece, and also a carpet cover for the dash (I use one myself to hide the cracks).

I have a very lightly used 201 chassis and body FSM, and an extra coil bound photocopy of the 601 engine FSM. Yours for $50 shipped. PM me if interested.

Are you related to ps2cho?

So that black line goes nowhere?

Ps2cho is my son.... LOL.

Well, it doesn't connect to anything, but it goes through the firewall in to the space, any space, under the dashboard;)

Cool!

So, to recap....
I can stop the engine by pulling Vac on the vacuum line all the way to the Ignition switch...
How do I test that unit?

So, here was the progress this weekend....
My son and I went to the Junkyard on Saturday morning...

It was fun and we struck gold!

Apair of headlamps... from a later car, but they look good... $42 for the pair.:)
Fitted...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04937.jpg

Same car at the Junkyard had a new set of Bilstein front shocks... the Heavy duty ones, and looked and felt recent(clean and smooth)..... $13 for the pair.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04931.jpg

I had noticed that the front shocks on my car are KYB's(:() and the bumpstops were missing!:eek:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04928.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04929.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04932.jpg


Bilsteins are fitted:)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04933.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04934.jpg


Another car had a set of Bilsteins on the rear... so we got them too!

Then I went looking for a Linkage for the Transmission shift and Cruise control.
FYI, a M103 engine throttle linkage is perfect, but has different sized ball ends at each end... so buy 2 and swap the ends!
Here is the result of the Cruise linkage(Trans linkage needs more work yet)!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC04927.jpg
Had a killer moment late this eve...
Was checking the Vacuum connections on the engine Vac pump... spotted a crack in a small connection.
Repaired it, and now the engine stops from the Ignition switch!
SCORE!

1234567

Sounds like you getting a working car . . . so when are you gonna buy another project/mystery diesel to get back into mechanical shape?:D

Great score on the headlamps, those things are hard to find here. People break them just to get the fog lamp domes.

Yep, every day brings improvements!

So, here is my new list of things to fix!
1/ Engine still takes about 2 seconds to stop after key removed...
2/ Speedometer cable broke, and inner dragged on the street until useless. New one ordered.
3/ Injector "return lines" weeping at injector... anyone tell me what size line it is?
4/ Drivers door lock just spins...
5/ A/C not working... system shows 90 psi static pressure... is that too much?
6/ Driver and both rear power windows dead. Gonna pull the trims and see whats going on this weekend.
7 Sunroof wind deflector does not pop up.

I LOVE MY DIESEL!

Just wanted to post an update....

It runs pretty good, about the only wrong is some engine vibration, that I think is bad motor mounts, which I have ready to do.
Worst milage I have seen is 31mpg and the best so far is 36.7mpg

Both front windows are now working, thanks to junkyard regulators, and both new front door trims are on and looking good with their new coat of paint!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/detailing-interior/266377-recoloring-vinyl-trim-sem-colorcoat-anyone-done.html

I found the rear passenger side window was propped up with a piece of wood, and the regulator wire was MIA... I have the regulators, so next on my list..

I found a 5 speed manual trans at the junkyard... so that is on the horizon...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/271403-5-speed-manual-transmission-rebuild.html

Paint buffed up realy good, although with the shine you can see all the door dings..:mad:

New Paint?
 

My drivers' door was hit and needed replacement. The consequently buffed out the entire paint job, and it was incredible and looked brand new. Don't know why you had to put new paint. A buffing machine, with compound would have made the whole thing new.

Also, keep a pencil or screw driver around to push the shut off valve at front of engine.

and there is an engine shock that usually needs replacement which is why your idle might be rough.

Don't expect any power from the auto tranny . . . . personally I would have been suicidal with an automatic tranny on mine, but the 5-spd kept me from checking my wrists on regular basis, although I did shut it off on onramps.

As far as the A/C . . . after several attempts to repair, Shackelford's in Fredrickburg, VA finally got it working correctly by replacing the Nipondenso with an MBZ rebuit compressor, but unfortunately he convinced me to convert to R134. This time around, I converted to Freeze-12 on my 300D. Much better. No other rebuild holds up to the high pressure, so find a source for an OEM rebuild.

Good luck on your purchase, and you will greatly enjoy the fuel mileage . . . . I used to average 37 mpg on my 5-spd.

Torie

Thanks,
I think you misread my post... I painted the interior trim... not the exterior!

I did the Engine Mounts on sunday... Huge difference, but not perfect yet.
You are right about the "Engine Stop" under the bellhousing... its toast, but I cant find it on Peachparts....

That car's really progressing nicely. Two things I strongly suggest. Get a hood star for it. and shine up that grille. And replace the grey plastic grill insert. Or at least clean and repaint the exising one a slightly darker shade of grey. It'll make a world of difference.

- Peter.

Wow, its been a while since I posted an update...

As the poor old girl has been doing Teenager duty almost the last year, we finally got them cars, so I got her back... They all complained about her being slow... but loved the MPG, and the fact that the cops never even notice them. Neither of them got stopped the whole year... around here thats a miracle!

Now she has 195k miles on...
I have now buffed out and polished the paint, and it looks OK aside from the areas that were clearly repainted sometime... a patch on the hood, and the drivers front fender which looks like it has some filler in the front corner from a bump. Also the parking dings are numerous and ugly... I need to learn PDR!
The MPG is pretty consistent, regardless of how or where its driven... 33ish if I use Diesel Kleen , and 31ish if I don't.
Not worked out if its worth it, but like the idea anyway, so will continue.

So, here is what I did in the last year...
New Nissans radiator.
New Water pump, thermostat, and hoses.
Reconditioned 85A Alternator.
Painted Grill satin black and replaced the Star.

Fixed the Tach, and replaced all the bulbs in the cluster, as well as swapped the clock from another cluster I had... soldering required, but it now works great. Replaced the speedometer cable, but its still intermittent.

This week I got stuck into some TLC.
The car was shimming at 65, and brakes needed work... One of the kids drove it around with the parking brake on for a week...:(... this is the same kid that told me it was "Doing something odd at 85.."
I chewed him out seriously...
Now the brake wear warning lamp was on, and time to act.

The shimmy looks like wear in the center link, and track rod ends... on order now.
This caused the pass tire to wear oddly...
Scary...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC02378.jpg

The rear brakes were not too worn, pads, rotors were OK. Parking brake shoes were OK, so need to adjust them or the cable later.
Fronts were another story...
Even tho the pads still had some life, the rotor surfaces were so worn, that there was a 1/8th" lip on the ouside... this had eaten the wear sensor in half!
Replaced Pads and rotors.... this thing is so slow, it has solid, non vented rotors up front!!:P

I am out of work, so money is tight and now I needed new tires, as they are all down to the wear bars...

I had a brainstorm and went to my storage, where I had some 7x17 RAGE Alloys stored with good 225/50 tires... The wheels were dual pattern with 108 and 114.3 PCD's, that we had on a Ford Taurus..
I tried them, and they fitted.. the tires are as little large, and look about 1" larger overall diameter, but free is good right now.
I am not driving it until I get my Hubcentric rings, and PCD variance bolts, but here is how it looks...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC02379.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC02380.jpg

Check the idler arm bushings while you're doing the steering.

Sixto
87 300D

Is that the bar that goes across the center?
If it is that is what I am talking about... both ends have slack, and also the track rod ends have split rubber boots... I need to do them all.