What motor Oil should I use in the cold
 

I am in NH, and was wondering what motor oil I should be putting into my car now that winter is approaching. Also I heard that ATF fluid is suitable for the power steering. What ATF fluid would work for this?

Rotella synthetic 5W-30 would be a good choice.

Use Dextron III in the PS system.

5W-40.;)

Although you can get away with using ATF in the power steering circuit, it really isn't recommended. If ATF were free and PS fluid were $100/quart I could understand, but PS fluid isn't expensive. Besides, PS fluid is usually clear when new and it's easy to watch it for color changes that tell you "time to change."

I struggled with this same question for the last few weeks and finally found resolution from this site and others! :P

First of all, I live in a much warmer climate than you, North Carolina.

But, I have decided that for my MB, 5W40 during the winter and 15W40 during the rest of the year will keep my Benz running like Singer sewing machine.

I also struggled between the choices of Rotella T Syn and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck for the winter oil. In the end I chose the Mobil route because I like Delvac 1300 for the summer choice and I figured I might as well stick with one brand. Plus, M1 is a stouter oil (so I read) than the RTS for only $3 more a gallon.

I recently flushed my PS system and used the Prestone branded PS fluid. Its about the same price as ATF, so you might as well use it as far as I am concerned.

Whenever someone suggests "Rotella" it means they're a WalMart shopper.

Why not go to the source?

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511

Be excellent if you bothered to read the container on Rotella. It meets the CJ-4 spec for diesels. Your cited M/B recommendation shows the older CG-4 spec.

What does Rotella have to do with "Wal-Mart"? It's available at many retail outlets.

Why not run the 5W40 all year? The cost is identical and the labor is 1/2.

I use 5w-40 full synthetic.

Where can a buy 5w40 at 15w40 prices?

I think he was trying to be snide on the sly as he has been with owners of old MBs in the past, but it appears it's backfired on him yet again. There is a MB approved oil available at Wal-Mart, namely the 5W-40 weight Mobil 1, so I don't see what's wrong with being a Wal-Mart shopper.

Well . . .
 

Most ALL truck stops sell Rotella! I buy mine a NAPA! And actually Lkchris MB is not the source . . . some refiner produces the oil for them and puts the nice little label on for them too!:rolleyes:

A synthetic oil will flow better at colder temps . . . obviously switching to a 5W from a 10W also will help in cold weather, make sure you use Diesel compatible oil.

most of these oil threads get heated, and/or snide and snobby. this one got even worse, and quickly.

5w-40 in the cold weather, to answer the original question. i guess where you buy it now kicks you out of the cool kids club. :rolleyes:

I use distilled water. It has a great cleaning ability.

And fantastic lubricative properties.

On a serious note though, I put in 15W40 this summer and I'm not due for a change til february. I'm in the same climate as the OP, should I change it now, or can I tough it through?

I'm with Brian - use 5w-40 all year, then you never have to think about when the change or leave it.

Plus, if you leave a thicker oil in b/c you just don't want to change it, it might make for some hard starts on those cold Massachusetts mornings...

If it were me I would change it. It will start much easier in weather below freezing.

Another user on here tried to make it through his first winter here in MN with dino oil.
It wouldn't start at 4F. He switched to synthetic the next winter and cold started it near -20F.

Not only does it make a difference in how cold the car will start in, it provides better protection for the engine since it flows better right away when the engine starts turning.

I too run 5w-40 all year. I used to run M1 but they raised the prices and now it is about $7+ difference a gallon around here so last spring I switched to Rotella.

The total cost includes the oil and the filter.

You change the dino oil every 3K.

You change the synthetic oil every 5K or 6K.........depending on the soot loads from your particular engine.

The end result is the same cost.

Ayup!
 

I just opened a national professional account through AutoZone at the school I work at, and was poking around there and look what I found!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...tella15W40.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...otella5W40.jpg

Gonna stop in there tomorrow and see about getting some of that 5W40! I was paying $12.99 at Napa (for the 15W40) . . . I plan on running it all year:D

Also found this interesting bit (I like to bottome one!):
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...Thermostat.jpg

What is interesting about that statement is the capability of Rotella synthetic to handle soot loads of up to 9%.

As a comparison, the 617 gets up to about 1% at 5K..........and that's the point where I feel the need to change the oil.

Clearly, I'm way too conservative at 5K and the oil can go longer.

I go 6K on the 603 with similar results (.8% soot).

Actually that is for the dino 15W40, but . . . the synthetic only states "provides a enhanced level of performance" . . . is that compared to their 15W40?

Delvac 1
 

Where do you guys find Delvac 1 and what are you paying?

Rotella = best value
 

I use shell Rotella synthetic 5w40 in my benz all year. Even though its not a "true synthetic" It is the best value for my 300k mile 25 year old daily driver. Its better than regular dino at least. I have thought about using the same oil that I put in my duramax and TDI beetle which is the valvoline 5w40 full synthetic blue extreme. It meets all major diesel engine requirements and is one of the only oils endorsed by cummins, catipillar, volvo, onan, detroit. The bottle says it meets a mercedes spec but i can't remember which one. I dunno what anyones thoughts are on that. It seems to be great oil as at 5000 miles it still comes out pretty clean and I can see no build up or varnishing inside the engine. It also got rid of the valve ticking on my buddies gas chev engine. Only problem is it can be hard to find!

That's not what you want. You want your oil coming out full of ****, cause then you know it's cleaning. The amount of nastiness in the oil should not be dependent on the type/brand of oil. If it comes out clean, then that means it's not cleaning.

How would you know this..........??

Use any API CI or greater rated oil. Depending on how cold it gets where you are you could use 15W or less. http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf

By clean i do not mean it looks like it did when u poured it out of the bottle. By clean I mean the lubrocity and viscosity has had very little breakdown. There is no sludge or sign of "penzoilitis" as i like to call it:D Yes i am well aware what the oil does to a motor and what it should look like if it is properly cleaning the engine components.

If you are aware of what it should look like...........please tell us all.

Once it goes jet black on a diesel..........you're not going to see much.

Your oil analysis is unlikely to show a reduction in viscosity simply because the oil is carrying varnish or sludge. Additionally, anything of significant size is stopped by the filter.

I have the oil analyzed by a lab every other oil change! costs me $25. sometimes u guys argue just to argue. Any other questions?

Nope.........no other questions. I think we all know where you're coming from.

great now back to the real question.... I think 5w40 is the best choice all year round no matter what brand u chose, but i have never seen it offered in anything other than a synthetic, I may be wrong on this. So depending on wether or not u want to use synthetic would be a deciding factor. I know some people shy away from synthetics for their own personal reasons.

I have used Rotella 5W-40 synthetic and Mobil 1 Truck and SUV.

The car leaked/burned more Rotella than it does Mobil 1 despite the fact that it's clearly a lighter oil.(I have a few minor leaks on the injector pump)

I also am averaging about 2-3 mpg BETTER with the Mobil 1.

I highly recommend Mobil 1 Truck and SUV, year-round....

Sheesh...he simply challenged your statements...nothing personal, bro.

Delvac 1 or Delo Synthetic if you can find it.

I usually only buy Rotella, but . . . I only was able to find this:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Delvacoil.jpg

Edit to add:
Most place that sell Mobil product should be able to order I'm told . . . or on-line like here, http://store.avlube.com/fonfacsizcol.html 4 gal case:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...nz/Delvac1.jpg

Thats Delvac Super, a very good additive based mineral oil but thats for summers, its not Delvac 1.

I have found M1 5W40 (same oil) for $22/gallon at some walmarts (not most).

I thought M1 Truck and SUV was the same oil, not regular M1.

I believe that is correct . . . I assume that it is marketed to the trucking industry as Delvac 1 . . .

I also edited to add the Delvac 1 to my post above . . .

That's the oil I'm talking about (it's the only 5W40 they sell except for the "ESP Formula M" for new diesels, but it's now called "turbo Diesel truck"). The 5W30 is now called "Truck and SUV," just to make it more confusing.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx

The reason is only synthetics can be made with such a wide viscosity range, no mineral oil can be rated at 0W.

One caveat from what I read at various oil forums. Many in Australia recommend against Delvac 1 in severe heat conditions. They have found negative effects rather than positive when compared to conventional mineral based oils, however they have also stipulated that they achieved excellent results using Delvac-I in extremely cold conditions. For heat, good old Delvac Super/MX or Delo 400 does swell. I myself have done extensive runs in 50C Rajasthan desert summer with very good results. Oil consumption was nil after hard 400 mile trek in the dust.

OK. I'm raising the BS flag. 15W-40 has been around for ages and has successfully been used in many engines with out any issues. I agree that 5W-40 (a synthetic) is an improvement over 15W-40 due to the fact it is a synthetic or quazi-synthetic and it also has a lower pouring point (5W vs 15W). The fact remains if it gets that cold you must use a block heater that will keep the block and hence oil warm enough that it won't be an issue. If it's that cold glow plugs alone won't work. You guys split hairs over which brand to use. Then criticize them if they don't use your brand and these oil wars start use this, no use this... USE A PROPERLY RATED OIL FOR YOUR ENGINE. DIESEL ENGINES REQUIRE "C_" Rated OIL NOT "S_" Rated.
Thank you for allowing me to RANT.

15W has a pour point of Appox -30 deg C
5W has a pour point of Approx -45 deg C
Pour point: The pour point is the lowest temperature at which an oil will flow. This property is crucial for oils that must flow at low temperatures. A commonly used rule of thumb when selecting oils is to ensure that the pour point is at least 10°C (20°F) lower than the lowest anticipated ambient temperature.

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/pour_point.htm

In short... 15W is good to about -20 Deg C or -4 deg F

Wow.........how come I'm not stuck at the Marriott with ambient temps of 0°F?

I don't think they're going to let me run an extension cord through the lobby.

Because Brian Carlton you maintain your vehicle in tip-top condition. You're not the typical get in and drive type of owner. HMMM... Why in Fairbanks AK are plugs are provide at the Marriott? Oh YEAH they really do provide them... STIR THAT POT!!!!

Brian... UPDATED info in prior post.

LOL, I once ran an extension cord from my second story balcony to my 300D at the Residence Inn in Green Bay (it was about -10F overnight). On more than one occasion, I was able to start because I was running 5W40 in cold climates.

Well, I suppose you must define your words "that cold".

Somewhere along the way, you'll be correct, depending on temperature and vehicle condition.

When you refer to "get in and drive type of owner".............would this be folks that never replace glow plugs..........never do a valve adjustment............and never change fuel filters...............that type?

And, if that is the type............why would they obsess over the type of oil? Hell, they're probably using Pennzoil 10W-30.

Sure they work, I've started my car at 0F without using the block heater. You need a good battery, adjusted valves, good injectors, etc. Winter fuel and synthetic 5w40 will be an advantage.

Speaking of fuel filters, I've started replacing my spin-on filter every fall because of the potential water collected. Last winter I came close to stalling while climbing a hill in PA at about 5F, I'm pretty sure the fuel/water in my filter was starting to freeze. As soon as I hit warmer temperatures, full power came back.

15W has a pour point of Appox -30 deg C
5W has a pour point of Approx -45 deg C
Pour point: The pour point is the lowest temperature at which an oil will flow. This property is crucial for oils that must flow at low temperatures. A commonly used rule of thumb when selecting oils is to ensure that the pour point is at least 10°C (20°F) lower than the lowest anticipated ambient temperature.

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/pour_point.htm

In short... 15W is good to about -20 Deg C or -4 deg F



WOW... From a moderator. I expected better behavior.

I've stated my personal and profession opinion and quoted references/sources.