Is there a mechanism in your homemade shut off system for bleeding the vacuum out of the shut off line or is it depending on just a slow deterioration in vacuum once the ball valve is turned closed?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

sorry about the confusion. when i was talking about the homemade switches and ball valves, that was in another car. it had the two brown vac hoses going to either side of the ball valve. this valve would remain closed during starting and running (so no vacuum was getting to the shut off valve). when i wanted to kill the engine it would be cracked open, allowing vacuum to activate the shut off valve, killing the engine. then it would be closed again.

this car (the one that im having trouble starting cold) has a regular stock keyed ignition. i did replace the shutoff valve recently, the old one wouldnt hold vacuum and the engine was taking a little while to shut off. even the shut off arm didn't work. i believe my linkages need adjustment, but i dont know where to start!

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1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo

DO YOU HAVE A BLOCK HEATER INSTALLED? NO? THEN I SUGGEST THAT YOU BUY ONE.
UNDER $50 BUCKS DELIVERED. PLUG IT INTO AN OUTLET AT NIGHT. YOUR DIESEL WILL START EASILY EVERY TIME WHEN IT GETS DOWN TO THOSE TEMPS. I LIVE IN THE PGH. AREA. I DRIVE A 1991 350SD. THE BLOCK HEATER WORKS GREAT.