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  #16  
Old 12-01-2009, 10:38 AM
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Since you have the injectors out for a cylinder soak. I would do a compression check just before installing the injectors again. The rational being do I have good compression or not and how much if so.

That way if the no start continues you will not have to be guessing about the cause. Or at least poor compression has been either eliminated or still the issue.

A person should be able to borrow or otherwise get a test gauge for little effort. A cheap harbour freight unit for instance. Hopefully the soak does it and low compression from sittting was the cause of the problem.

I would also pull the fuel filter and dump the contents into a clear vessel looking for water when the fuel settles out. This is subjective as I do not know if condensation in your climate is a major problem. As already mentioned use the block heater to increase the rate of the mystery oils activity and pre warm the block before attempting to start after the soak. I would hope in your climate the engine has one. Yet a 240d I purchased years ago that had lived it's whole life in new jersey had none.

You also will want to establish fuel is available at all injectors if still a no start with reasonable compression. Under very low supply pressure there seems to be an indication that only some of the first injector elements in line are fed. General smoking when trying to start does not prove all injection pump elements are supplying fuel.


Last edited by barry123400; 12-01-2009 at 10:55 AM.
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2009, 12:42 PM
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Thanks,
I do live in a wet climate, just north of Portland Or. I will change the fuel filter, and check for water. I do not remember seeing a block heater, but I will look again. Would a blanket over the engine, and a 500W halogen light under the engine provide enough heat to help. It is running in the high 40's around here.
I do have a compression tester, Just had no seals. Will a compression test be of value after haveing the MMO in the cylinders?
I will work on getting the rest of the little things tied up, while waiting on the parts, so Maybe I can get this going next week.
thank you all for your help. I will keep you posted.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
Thanks,
I do live in a wet climate, just north of Portland Or. I will change the fuel filter, and check for water. I do not remember seeing a block heater, but I will look again. Would a blanket over the engine, and a 500W halogen light under the engine provide enough heat to help. It is running in the high 40's around here.
I do have a compression tester, Just had no seals. Will a compression test be of value after haveing the MMO in the cylinders?
I will work on getting the rest of the little things tied up, while waiting on the parts, so Maybe I can get this going next week.
thank you all for your help. I will keep you posted.
Blackestate, where do you live? Vanc/ Battle Ground area? Seeing what you've posted it reminds me of the engine I bought that had sat. It also had stuck rings from just sitting in my shop!
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:26 PM
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I live in Amboy, About 15 min NE of Battle Ground. And it is wet. We get a lot of rain from the stroms dumping to get up ove the mountain.
How did you fix the stuck rings? The thread earlier linked talked about getting a differant engine.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2009, 01:34 PM
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It turns out I had stuck rings in the beginning of my thread '617....wvo egine.....won't start' I had stuck rings. It turns out later that I had to find another engine because the motor with stuck rings has a bad cylinder bore.
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  #21  
Old 12-01-2009, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
I live in Amboy, About 15 min NE of Battle Ground. And it is wet. We get a lot of rain from the stroms dumping to get up ove the mountain.
How did you fix the stuck rings? The thread earlier linked talked about getting a differant engine.
See my earlier posts. People who have had similar problems concluded that pull starting the car loosened up the rings, improved compression and allowed the engine to return to normal. It's why I suggested pull starting it.
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2009, 03:52 PM
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Yes, I read your earlier post, and that is the plan now. We will get the engine back together, and if it still will not start, we will pull start it. I was hoping to get it to start before having it all road ready. But now I have the time while waiting for the parts.
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  #23  
Old 12-09-2009, 08:25 AM
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thank you for the help. The MMO did get it to start. It has a slight knock at idle, but not at higher rpm. I am thinking this is injector related, or related to the blow by that is still there. I am hoping that after sitting for a year. Some running will clear things back up to normal.
No on to the rest of getting it on the road.
Thank you again.

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