'82 240D will not start
 

I've done a search on this problem and have done mostly everything recommended.

The car has 250K.

Car was running fine and started fine until about a week ago. Here in Houston, we had a very snap (cold for Houston) where the temps got to 26 degrees. Next day tried starting and it did't even try to start.

We've had temperatures here recently go down to about 32 and the car would start with no problem. Now nothing.

I've replaced the glow plugs so far.

I've made sure the new plugs do get power and i even tested each one and they do get red hot using their respective leads.

I pushed on the primer about 30 or so times and fuel is circulating through the system.

While plugs were out, I tried to see if there was air in the system by turning the engine with the accelerator pedal to the floor and saw alot of diesel mist being blown through the holes; so it does appear there is no air.

The battery is up to the task and turns the engine over pretty well.
I have not adjusted the valves and it has been a while since I have but it's not logical that this car was running perfectly until we got the cold snap and now it won't want to start.

I even sprayed some WD40 down the intake while cranking and nothing.

Suggestions?

Thanks

Adjust your valves.

The cam towers are made of aluminum which expands and contracts quite a bit relative to iron. That is why there are two specks for setting valve lash.

Per Manual;

"Valve Clearence"

Intake: Cold (20*C) .10mm*
Hot (60*C +- 15*C) .15mm*

Exhaust: Cold .30mm
Hot: .35mm

* 0.05mm greater for steady ambient tempretures bellow -20*C

Notice that the hot setting is larger than the cold setting. This is because when hot the aluminum has expanded and if the cold speck is used, the valve lash will be too tight when the aluminum cools and contracts.

So I'm at a loss why this car won't start. I did the following and the car still won't start.

I did check the valves which needed minor adjustment per specifications.

I've tried towing starting.

I checked to see if fuel was even getting to the injection pump by looking at the clear fuel line going into the pump and it is full with no bubbles. I even cracked open the return fuel line banjo bolt sitting on top of the fuel filter as I was pumpping the primer and fuel is coming out of the return line from the injection pump; therefore it is getting fuel.

I cracked open all the fuel deliver lines at each injector to see if fuel is being injected while I had the injection pump full open (accelerator to floor) and as I was cranking the engine with the starter. There is fuel coming out of each fuel line so each injector is getting fuel.

I checked to see if maybe the fuel cutoff vacuum valve may have been stuck and it is working fine.

I've done all the above and it still won't start.

It makes no sense to me that one day the car is fine and then a couple of days later it has no sign of life. It doesn't even act like it wants to start. I haven't check compression but it is illogical that the car would lose compression from one day to the next. When it was running fine, it would always start on the first turn of the key and it would be immediate. I've never had problems starting this car in the 10 years I've had it. The weather here in houston has gotten quite warm to around 74 so temperature isn't an issue.

I need help solving this. So I ask the forum, does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks

Are you sure the GPs are getting juice. I would change out the strip in the relay even if it looks good. You pulled the brown vacuum line off the shut down switch to make sure is was not that?

Usually plugged filters wont cause the car not to start unless they are completely plugged.

Do a compression check.

airfoill,
Seems like, except for the valve adjustment, you've done the right things.


Here's a trick I've used for my 240D ( since sold) and my F250 Diesel. I insert a hair dryer into the air intake at the front of the hood, and let it run for 5-10 minutes on the low setting. If its real cold, I might use "high", but watch that the heat doesn't melt that inlet tube.
Then, with the air dryer still running, do your normal start up. Should start right up.

( ps, my wife is unaware of this "alternative" use of her hair dryer.)

In my opinion going back and doing a more thorough check of the glow circuit is indicated. You want to see how long there is voltage on the glow plugs after activating the glow circuit.

This means a voltage probe on a glow plug with the other probe on the engine as ground. The other possibility perhaps is somehow or other you got bad fuel but not starting on the wd-40 indicates otherwise to some extent.

Even a small amount of air in the fuel system can prevent starting.
My 81 had a leaking primer pump, which effectively made it harder and harder to start till one day it would not. Easy fix with a new pump.
Look for leaks.

The valves didn't suddenly go out of adjustment, nor did the engine suddenly wear out.

He DRAG started it at SEVENTY degrees F and it wouldn't start, ruling out: plugs, relay, battery, starter, etc (you did have it floored for 30 or seconds while towing to purge the fuel lines and whatnot?). As mentioned, something is jacked with the fuel delivery.

Fuel shouldn't "circulate through the system" when you press the primer pump. It should build pressure and get more and more difficult to press until you get the bypass "hiss" noise. You do have a good, later, "black knob" primer pump?

It seems to me that either the cold weather finished off a tenuous fuel-line connection, or something--unrelated to your "cold"--has gone haywire with the governor (broken spring or summat); try flooring it while you crank. A 616 I've seen would only start floored, and only run up to about 1100 RPM while floored; half floored was "idle," and anything less was "stall."

My 240 does the same thing . The last cold snap we had made it useless as well. I couldnt start it tried for two days. I went through the same routine as you did excluding the pull start. I finally hooked a large battery charger to it and kept on cranking it would fire and die slowly firing more almost like the cylinders were flooded with fuel. It continued this for a 1/2 hour and then stayed running.

Now two weeks later its running as if nothing ever happened. I'm thinking these engines just load themselves with fuel if they dont start and become a real bear to get going afterwards.

I suggested a compression check because other typical causes of a no-start condition have been examined and excluded in at least a preliminary manner. A compression check would tell him if he should return to re=examine those other typical causes. It only takes a half hour or so and would also give him an indication of the general health of his engine.

Agreed , I should have noted my compression is very low.

Humm... I think thats your problem, next most popular reason for not starting. Not as easy to fix as the GPs, do you have the numbers?

68 Rambler
 

Soothappens,

What model Rambler is that . . . I had the two door sedan and drove it for 10 years . . . . body looked like hell, but under the hook was sprakling without any bubble gum or bailing wire, and got 25 mpg consistently . . . had the 6 cylinder engine, with the GM electrics and the weak air cooled tranny . . . glad to see some of those out there.

Let's stick to the poster's (airfoill) question.

I would try applying 12 volts directly to the the glowplugs then trying to start. This will eliminate a possible gp system problem. Try this out then report your findings!! We'll figure this out soon enough!