I've done a search on this problem and have done mostly everything recommended.

The car has 250K.

Car was running fine and started fine until about a week ago. Here in Houston, we had a very snap (cold for Houston) where the temps got to 26 degrees. Next day tried starting and it did't even try to start.

We've had temperatures here recently go down to about 32 and the car would start with no problem. Now nothing.

I've replaced the glow plugs so far.

I've made sure the new plugs do get power and i even tested each one and they do get red hot using their respective leads.

I pushed on the primer about 30 or so times and fuel is circulating through the system.

While plugs were out, I tried to see if there was air in the system by turning the engine with the accelerator pedal to the floor and saw alot of diesel mist being blown through the holes; so it does appear there is no air.

The battery is up to the task and turns the engine over pretty well.
I have not adjusted the valves and it has been a while since I have but it's not logical that this car was running perfectly until we got the cold snap and now it won't want to start.

I even sprayed some WD40 down the intake while cranking and nothing.

Suggestions?

Thanks

Adjust your valves.

The cam towers are made of aluminum which expands and contracts quite a bit relative to iron. That is why there are two specks for setting valve lash.

Per Manual;

"Valve Clearence"

Intake: Cold (20*C) .10mm*
Hot (60*C +- 15*C) .15mm*

Exhaust: Cold .30mm
Hot: .35mm

* 0.05mm greater for steady ambient tempretures bellow -20*C

Notice that the hot setting is larger than the cold setting. This is because when hot the aluminum has expanded and if the cold speck is used, the valve lash will be too tight when the aluminum cools and contracts.

So I'm at a loss why this car won't start. I did the following and the car still won't start.

I did check the valves which needed minor adjustment per specifications.

I've tried towing starting.

I checked to see if fuel was even getting to the injection pump by looking at the clear fuel line going into the pump and it is full with no bubbles. I even cracked open the return fuel line banjo bolt sitting on top of the fuel filter as I was pumpping the primer and fuel is coming out of the return line from the injection pump; therefore it is getting fuel.

I cracked open all the fuel deliver lines at each injector to see if fuel is being injected while I had the injection pump full open (accelerator to floor) and as I was cranking the engine with the starter. There is fuel coming out of each fuel line so each injector is getting fuel.

I checked to see if maybe the fuel cutoff vacuum valve may have been stuck and it is working fine.

I've done all the above and it still won't start.

It makes no sense to me that one day the car is fine and then a couple of days later it has no sign of life. It doesn't even act like it wants to start. I haven't check compression but it is illogical that the car would lose compression from one day to the next. When it was running fine, it would always start on the first turn of the key and it would be immediate. I've never had problems starting this car in the 10 years I've had it. The weather here in houston has gotten quite warm to around 74 so temperature isn't an issue.

I need help solving this. So I ask the forum, does anybody have any ideas?

Thanks

Are you sure the GPs are getting juice. I would change out the strip in the relay even if it looks good. You pulled the brown vacuum line off the shut down switch to make sure is was not that?

Usually plugged filters wont cause the car not to start unless they are completely plugged.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Do a compression check.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

airfoill,
Seems like, except for the valve adjustment, you've done the right things.


Here's a trick I've used for my 240D ( since sold) and my F250 Diesel. I insert a hair dryer into the air intake at the front of the hood, and let it run for 5-10 minutes on the low setting. If its real cold, I might use "high", but watch that the heat doesn't melt that inlet tube.
Then, with the air dryer still running, do your normal start up. Should start right up.

( ps, my wife is unaware of this "alternative" use of her hair dryer.)

__________________
1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

In my opinion going back and doing a more thorough check of the glow circuit is indicated. You want to see how long there is voltage on the glow plugs after activating the glow circuit.

This means a voltage probe on a glow plug with the other probe on the engine as ground. The other possibility perhaps is somehow or other you got bad fuel but not starting on the wd-40 indicates otherwise to some extent.

Even a small amount of air in the fuel system can prevent starting.
My 81 had a leaking primer pump, which effectively made it harder and harder to start till one day it would not. Easy fix with a new pump.
Look for leaks.

__________________
1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

The valves didn't suddenly go out of adjustment, nor did the engine suddenly wear out.

He DRAG started it at SEVENTY degrees F and it wouldn't start, ruling out: plugs, relay, battery, starter, etc (you did have it floored for 30 or seconds while towing to purge the fuel lines and whatnot?). As mentioned, something is jacked with the fuel delivery.

Fuel shouldn't "circulate through the system" when you press the primer pump. It should build pressure and get more and more difficult to press until you get the bypass "hiss" noise. You do have a good, later, "black knob" primer pump?

It seems to me that either the cold weather finished off a tenuous fuel-line connection, or something--unrelated to your "cold"--has gone haywire with the governor (broken spring or summat); try flooring it while you crank. A 616 I've seen would only start floored, and only run up to about 1100 RPM while floored; half floored was "idle," and anything less was "stall."

__________________
James Marriott
2003 Buick Regal
1983 300D (228k, frau Auto)
1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000)
www.engineeringworks.biz
1987 300SDL junker 170k
1982 300SD junker, 265k

My 240 does the same thing . The last cold snap we had made it useless as well. I couldnt start it tried for two days. I went through the same routine as you did excluding the pull start. I finally hooked a large battery charger to it and kept on cranking it would fire and die slowly firing more almost like the cylinders were flooded with fuel. It continued this for a 1/2 hour and then stayed running.

Now two weeks later its running as if nothing ever happened. I'm thinking these engines just load themselves with fuel if they dont start and become a real bear to get going afterwards.

__________________


Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!



86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes

Still do the valve adjustment, and recheck the compression. A valve or two a little on the tight side will drop apparent compression.
No guarantees, but what have you got to lose?

__________________
1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

He's confirmed power to the glowplugs. I'd do the compression check prior to the valve adjustment, then do one again afterwards. It would confirm/deny that the valves were the problem.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thanks guys for your inputs. Your ideas are very helpful.

The next step for me is to do a compression test. I will need to obtain the tools necessary to do this. Anyway, assuming that one cylinder is low, would that cause it not to start?