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  #1  
Old 01-30-2010, 03:39 PM
helpplease
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What vaccumm stuff can be taken off?

Hello again all 1985 300D California edition, what Vaccum stuff can be blocked off/removed safely. There seems to be A LOT more than on my 83 300CD. Any pics/diagrams would be great thanks guys.

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  #2  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:08 PM
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You can remove both vacuum solenoids on the left inside fender and simplify the vacuum hoses. You can also remove the EGR valve (block off the holes with one of Brian's kits). The ARV cannot be removed, it's built into the turbo but you can remove the vacuum line and put a cap over it.

You can replace the trap catalyst with a straight pipe (a forum member builds them) or replace the entire manifold with the 49-state version. Use the search function, there are many threads on various modifications. Some folks have tracked down an early turbo manifold that doesn't even have a place for an EGR valve.

All parts can be removed without damage and remember to save them in case you ever have to put them back on or pass on to new owner.

Jeremy
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:51 PM
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A good chunk of those lines are related to the updated 85+ style transmission control. I would leave them.

-Jason
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:11 PM
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Theoretically, the could get rid of most anything, even the shut off valve if you rigged a cable to the shut down lever. MB vans only use vacuum for the shut off valve. However, from a practical point of view, your transmission and climate control system are going to need it to function correctly.
I'd venture a guess that most of the old 123 diesel taxis traversing the third world have a steel plate in place of the vacuum pump.
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1985 300TD 185k+
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1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2010, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I'd venture a guess that most of the old 123 diesel taxis traversing the third world have a steel plate in place of the vacuum pump.
I'd venture a guess that those taxi drivers would also have thighs as big as Virginia hams from trying the stop the things without a brake booster. A vacuum pump is not hard or expensive to fix unless you have a broken spring or cam follower. If that's the case, the vacuum is the least of your problems. I doubt that anyone would completely remove a vacuum pump because a check valve went south. It would cost more for the plate than a repair kit. At the same time, there's no problem with leaving it in place if it's not doing it's job. What's the diff?
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  #6  
Old 02-07-2010, 05:58 AM
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My question is in reference to vac diagrams posted. In removal of #81, #84, #85. What about the electrical connectors to them. My car is 85 300sd, it actually shifts better with all stuff removed. Maybe its not a concern for them to be unplugged laying there?!
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  2. Cars in family--
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  4. 91 350sd
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  #7  
Old 02-07-2010, 04:17 PM
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IF you need a 49-state exhaust manifold, I have one. In nice shape. PM me if interested...
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  #8  
Old 02-07-2010, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drippin View Post
My question is in reference to vac diagrams posted. In removal of #81, #84, #85. What about the electrical connectors to them. My car is 85 300sd, it actually shifts better with all stuff removed. Maybe its not a concern for them to be unplugged laying there?!
I'm going to venture to guess that when vacuum elements are removed from the system it increases the available vacuum that is in the system. This in turn changes the vacuum modulation on the transmission and softens the shifts.

Am I right to assume this?
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2010, 02:03 AM
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Replace the automatic with a manual 4-spd., and you can remove just about all the vacuum stuff. except for the fuel shutoff, door locks and AC system.

replace the intake/exhaust manifolds with one from a 78, 79 W116 300SD, and it will clean it up. No EGR to block off.

Charlie
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2010, 01:42 PM
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No on the softer shifting. Ive played with the alda also. turning if cw brought shift times to higher rpms and very crisp. knocking of engine went way up. turned ccw knocking went away shifting had sporadic flaring 3 to 4th. with all vac removed and lines cleaned up at trans booster it is shifting with out flare now. shift points are reasonable for my driving style. alot of variables being played with here im trying to keep somewhat of a base line on my adjustments. she is pushing 200k so little adjustments for wear. I did get a nice patch of 2nd gear rubber on damp pavement the other day

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  2. Cars in family--
  3. 91 350sd converted to 3.0l six
  4. 91 350sd
  5. 71 220d
  6. 92 300d
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