is lithium based grease ok for front wheel bearings on my sdl-im doing brake jon soon

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95 e320,87 sdl,79 300sd

I have only heard of using lithium grease for trailer bearings because it is water resistant. I do know that you absolutely canNOT mix petroleum grease and lithium grease...you need to completely clean off the bearings 100% before you pack with the other, but it is a good idea to do that anyways. Personally I would stick to petroleum since it is more widely used for autos IIRC.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Certainly, provided that it is rated for disc brakes.

What do you think the lithium is mixed with to make grease?

Should have phrased it lithium vs lithium free. Mixing bearing grease is still a bad idea.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

If you plan to inspect the Rollers on the Bearing you would need to clean all of the old Grease off anyway.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would avoid doing the job twice, so just get the right bearing grease in the first place and be done with it.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

I read some time back that Molybdenum DiSulfide grease is the best for wheel bearing grease.

Is this still true?

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

Wasn't true when you read it. And it isn't true now.

Well, your reply has sent me off looking for the science of grease.

My findings:
Grease is made of oils, thickeners and additives.
Each component is chosen for a specific purpose depending on operating conditions/criteria.
Oil must be able to provide proper lubrication under operating temperature and humidity. Must be durable.
Thickeners, of which Lithium is an example, are used to increase the viscosity of the grease to the point that it will not separate into it's components (stratify).
Additives, of which Molybdenum Disulfide is an example, are used to increase lubricity, stability and other desirable effects. Moly is used to add lubricity under loads and can spin out of the grease at high speeds.

I was comparing apples to oranges. Yet, I still feel that Moly infused grease is good for wheel bearings. If it is based on Lithium, which also has excellent high temperature tolerance, and has Moly added then I think that would be a good combination.

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

MB Tech Data Manual says:

Use High-temperature antifriction bearing grease
Shell Darina Grease #2 Part # 000 989 49 51

"Do not mix high-temperature antifriction bearing grease
with multi-purpose grease or antifriction bearing grease"


Jeff

It is my opinion that, while moly grease is highly desirable in some applications, close tolerances and/or high speeds are not conditions in which it performs well. The moly itself is a solid and can act as an abrasive. I have also seen reports that state that it can cause roller bearings to slide instead of roll. Moly performs best in applications that involve loose tolerances, low speeds and limited motion where fretting is a problem. Ball joints and tie rod ends would be good examples.

Thanks for the feedback Tango. The more I read about it, the more I lean toward agreeing with your information.

And, I learned alot about grease. My original information was learned back in 79 while I was working on my old cars.

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

You like myself are still working on our old cars it seems. Thats not too bad as some of the newer stuff around here have virtually no issues. Gotta like them for that at least.

I have to agree w/TangoFox. The green MB grease is good stuff, but you can use the grease that is specifically made for bearings in a disk brake environment.

I use the grey colored synthetic stuff by Valvoline. Load it up in a grease gun and use a Lisle bearing packer.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

The concerns expressed about molly grease & bearing applications surprise me some what.

My old 300D (now a parts car) had its front wheel bearings repacked with molly grease at 200,000 miles, they were never re greased again. The car was retired at 800,000 miles. So 600,000 miles trouble free on molly grease.

During 1993 the car was driven in floods for about a month (all fluids were replaced after this), a year later one of the rear wheel bearing developed a typical wheel bearing noise (350,000 miles). As a quick fix, a hole was drilled into the bearing cavity, fitted with a nipple and molly grease injected. The noise soon went away and the bearings did not require any further service.

We have over 20 different vehicles here requiring a range of lubricants. They include cars/pickups (diesels & gassers), trucks, tractors, stationary engines, dozers, scrapers, road graders & non powered equipment. Over the years we have had both Mobil & Shell do lubricant surveys for us. One of the reasons is to allow us to standardize as much as possible the lubricants we use. They both recommended the use of one grease for all (including wheel bearings). They were molly based products.
I have previously quizzed their lubrication engineers about the type of concerns that have been expressed here. They advised me that much of the concerns had no basis and were just marketing hype. " There are many one liners about products in marketing information that is questionable". They sighted reports concerning lubricant use by experts in the field and I have previously mentioned this in a thread.

For the average guy just wanting to repack his hubs, it may be easiest & best to go with the MB grease.

When your application is such that the cost of down time per day is more than most cars discussed on this site are worth, some the equipment is valued at more than most peoples homes and you own the equipment (not just working for some person or government), you tend to seek out the best up to date information you can.
In terms of my own interpretation of information, I am a Professional Engineer, holding an Engineering Degree from The University of Adelaide. I have several decades of experience as a Professional Engineer.

Those who would choose to comment on the truthfulness or accuracy of information presented on here or express personal opinions, should at least provide details of their training and experience. I invite them to do so as I have in the past.
I am not attempting to belittle or insult any one, just simply insure we all get the best, most technically accurate information we can.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving