I'm kind of worried because I've got a Getrag 5-speed and I removed the seals for replacement (not sure if that's related to the issue at hand, though). Clockwise rotation of the input shaft by hand is kinda difficult because it gets "blocked" by something internal. Then I can finesse it to go again for a bit...and so on, start and stop. It will rotate freely and easily counter-clockwise indefinitely, however. There's also a metallic rattle upon rotation now.

What have I done? What must I do?

I would take it to someone who knows trannies and have them open it up and look at it.

It does not sound good though. It should rotate freely by hand.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

did you take it completely apart? or change input/output seals and O-rings?

Do the shift levers move, can you change gears?

Whats the housing #?

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I didn't take it completely apart, just the front and rear seals. They're still off. The shift levers move fine and I can shift with proper effect. It's just that the input shaft doesn't like to move clockwise except when I rock it back and forth a bit in fits and starts. I think that metallic noise sounds like a little drag from the front layshaft bearing? CCW turning is unimpeded and smooth, on the other hand.

I'll have to check the housing number but I'm kinda freaked out because I want to know this thing will rotate smoothly and not explode when I put engine power to it. Hopefully someone on here knows manual trannys well and can explain this.

TIA,
Ken

well, depending on the model of the tranny, if you pulled the front cover plate off of the gearbox to change the front seal, the bearing race seats in that plate with shims between it and the plate. The bearing has a sliding tolerance on the case, it might be able to move.

I don't know what model you have, but it could be a simple matter of the race has moved out a little relieving pressure on the input/output shaft. It needs the support of that plate to keep everything at the correct depth. For instance, if the input shaft could move out slightly, the countershaft drive gear could hit the lip of the bore. Its a helix cut gear, so it might make noise one way and be silent the other if its touching.

Heres a pic- again, this would depend on the model # but this is a 717.411. Does this look familiar to your model? If so, I would just put the plate back on and rotate it again to see what happens.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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@Dropnosky: That's what I've got, sir! I considered the ideas you mentioned previously but have not tried to re-seat that race. Let me cross my fingers and give that a shot. Do you have any spec for the proper torque on those cover bolts? I also noticed that 4 are a smidge longer than the others. I assume the 4 longs are the top square, the 3 shorts are the lower bolts? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks very much for even what you've said so far. I suspect (and hope) your assessment is correct.

Best,
Ken

Your gonna need a lift kit for the back of your car. Monster truck?

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Maybe some foreign object got into that exposed bearing causing it to drag? Did the gasket between the plate and the case come off as one piece, or did it break into little bits and maybe get in there?

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lol

Anyone have a recommendation for where they'd feel comfortable taking this to in southern California? Knowledgeable, reputable Getrag rebuilder?

Thanks,
Ken