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#1
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Ball Joints, shop job or DIY?
Howdy, I started hearing a big squeak going on at my front end. I had the shop look at it and said I need lower ball joints and wheel bearings. $990 ouch! How many of you have decided to do the job yourselves? Is it worth it? I believe that you need a spring compressor and a way to press out the ball joints. I wonder if I should try this myself as I already have a hole in my pocket.
I'm planning to take this thing to AZ soon, about a 1200 mi round trip. And i hesitate now with this diagnosis, although the the car drives fine with no noticeable front end problems. The 300D has 108K on it. Just want to see how some of you guys handled this problem. Jimmy |
#2
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You don't need a spring compressor, but access to a MB ball joint press is essential for a smooth operation. You might be able to find a shop which will allow you to bring in the steering knuckles only.
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#3
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Thanks for the feed back. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a spring compressor. I will have to check around and see if there is a place that has that tool for ball joints. So do you have to use the tool for removing AND installing the new ball joint? I will have to take a closer look at it to see just how much I have to take apart. Now if I wanted to replace the entire control arm, then I would need the spring compressor right. If it got to that point I would probably want to replace all the bushings etc.
Thanks for the help. |
#4
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I just saw this on Ebay. Is this the tool I need to get the job done?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-BMW-VW-Ball-Joint-Separator-Removal-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5190791190QQitemZ350316204432QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_304 4wt_963 |
#5
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Check the DIY there:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1444267-front-lower-supporting-ball-joint-changed.html
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#6
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Thanks for the link Oliver , that is helpful
(: |
#7
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Your welcome.
There is also the bearings DIY for the w210, maybe others in different forum from the same site, but as I have the w210 this is where I look. All the best. Olivier
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#8
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Quote:
You need something along the lines of: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-Joint-Press-Tool-Repair-Parts-Tools-for-Mercedes_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c090c5ec3QQitemZ120410889923QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht _2868wt_1167 |
#9
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108k is a very low mileage for bearing problems. $990 is a lot for the work. Maybe you need to talk to an other shop. Does the car have wheel bearing noise?
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#10
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You did say 300D but not which year/body.
Mine is a W123 from 1980 and I did this job myself. I like doing the work, spent three days. One day to take apart. Long break, Then one day on each side, taking my time. Probably could be done in one day with all the right tools and enough stamina. I like saving money. Parts and renting tools will save you a bundle. Parts and buying tools will save a bundle. Some larger sockets, some pickle forks/separators. Stuff that is easy to get. But I agree that 108K is pretty low miles for those kind of problems. If you are able to do this job, you should be able to diagnose/confirm what you were told.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#11
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Quote:
From your explantion, I would look elswhere. Check the sway bar bushings and maybe all they need is a shot of silicone spray.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#12
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To check lower-ball-joint play....
Jack up car under the spring-pan on bottom arm, so the bottom-ball-joint is 'unloaded', Take care, and use chassis stand for safety. Jack up to the point you can just get a 2-3 foot pry-bar under tyre. While observing joint, Lever tyre upwards and let fall. There should be no lift or movement in the Bottom-Ball-joint. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 O' Clock and check for movement inwards and outwards. Again there should be no major movement in the wheel, Slight movement may be wheel-bearing. Grab wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock, do same again, you may notice some slight movement in steering linkages....
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#13
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Just did this...
I received a similar quote. Much more with the additional items I did while I had things apart. I took much time to research the threads and too much time worrying about whether I could accomplish it. (85 300D w123 116k mi.)
I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. While I had things apart, I replaced the upper control arm (upper ball joint is part of it), lower ball joint, tie rods, steering damper, repack wheel bearings and front shocks....total cost 326.00. No doubt the Mercedes ball joint tools would have made it somewhat easier, but I had no problem using the Autozone ball joint kit to press in the ball joint, carefully taking off the grease seal surrounding the joint first. (I threw the ball joint in the freezer for a few hours before and believe it helped) I wouldn't try to do this on the car....take it off....much easier to use whack out the old joint, get things clean. I used a appropriately sized sochet to act as a drift to push out the old joint. Five good...correction GOOD...hits with a 5 # hammer and out it came. My total time was about 7 1/2 hours to accomplish all of the above with an additional 1/2 hour afterwards for celebratory adult beverages. Last edited by 300dOwner; 02-19-2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: forgot to add something |
#14
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congrats are in order!!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#15
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just buy a ball joint removal tool kit from amazon. i paid $60 for mine. it is basically a heavy duty C clamp.
the wheel bearings are pretty straightforward too. save your money
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
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