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  #1  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:09 PM
Dobroman's Avatar
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Location: Hathaway Pines Calif.
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Ball Joints, shop job or DIY?

Howdy, I started hearing a big squeak going on at my front end. I had the shop look at it and said I need lower ball joints and wheel bearings. $990 ouch! How many of you have decided to do the job yourselves? Is it worth it? I believe that you need a spring compressor and a way to press out the ball joints. I wonder if I should try this myself as I already have a hole in my pocket.
I'm planning to take this thing to AZ soon, about a 1200 mi round trip. And i hesitate now with this diagnosis, although the the car drives fine with no noticeable front end problems. The 300D has 108K on it.
Just want to see how some of you guys handled this problem.

Jimmy

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  #2  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:14 PM
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You don't need a spring compressor, but access to a MB ball joint press is essential for a smooth operation. You might be able to find a shop which will allow you to bring in the steering knuckles only.
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:24 PM
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Thanks for the feed back. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a spring compressor. I will have to check around and see if there is a place that has that tool for ball joints. So do you have to use the tool for removing AND installing the new ball joint? I will have to take a closer look at it to see just how much I have to take apart. Now if I wanted to replace the entire control arm, then I would need the spring compressor right. If it got to that point I would probably want to replace all the bushings etc.
Thanks for the help.
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  #4  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:31 PM
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I just saw this on Ebay. Is this the tool I need to get the job done?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-BMW-VW-Ball-Joint-Separator-Removal-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5190791190QQitemZ350316204432QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_304 4wt_963
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  #5  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:34 PM
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Check the DIY there:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1444267-front-lower-supporting-ball-joint-changed.html
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #6  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the link Oliver , that is helpful
(:
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:02 PM
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Your welcome.
There is also the bearings DIY for the w210, maybe others in different forum from the same site, but as I have the w210 this is where I look.
All the best.
Olivier
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:21 PM
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That's a separator, not a press.

You need something along the lines of:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-Joint-Press-Tool-Repair-Parts-Tools-for-Mercedes_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c090c5ec3QQitemZ120410889923QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht _2868wt_1167
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2010, 08:26 PM
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108k is a very low mileage for bearing problems. $990 is a lot for the work. Maybe you need to talk to an other shop. Does the car have wheel bearing noise?
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:08 PM
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You did say 300D but not which year/body.
Mine is a W123 from 1980 and I did this job myself.

I like doing the work, spent three days. One day to take apart.
Long break, Then one day on each side, taking my time.
Probably could be done in one day with all the right tools and enough
stamina.

I like saving money. Parts and renting tools will save you a bundle.
Parts and buying tools will save a bundle.

Some larger sockets, some pickle forks/separators. Stuff that is easy to get.

But I agree that 108K is pretty low miles for those kind of problems.
If you are able to do this job, you should be able to diagnose/confirm
what you were told.
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83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day
02 Z71 Suburban 117,000
15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles
00 Harley Sportster 24k
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  #11  
Old 02-19-2010, 02:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobroman View Post
Howdy, I started hearing a big squeak going on at my front end. I had the shop look at it and said I need lower ball joints and wheel bearings............................................. And i hesitate now with this diagnosis, although the the car drives fine with no noticeable front end problems. The 300D has 108K on it.
Just want to see how some of you guys handled this problem.

Jimmy
Agreed....I question the shops diagnosis. If the ball joint was worn, you should be seeing handling problems. Also, how did they diagnose wheel bearing issues? Again, if they were severely worn, you should notice handling problems such as pulling to one side. (It takes a dial guage to get them adjusted correctly.) At the very least, tire wear would be an obvious indicator if either of these parts were worn.

From your explantion, I would look elswhere. Check the sway bar bushings and maybe all they need is a shot of silicone spray.
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  #12  
Old 02-19-2010, 06:43 AM
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To check lower-ball-joint play....

Jack up car under the spring-pan on bottom arm, so the bottom-ball-joint is 'unloaded', Take care, and use chassis stand for safety.

Jack up to the point you can just get a 2-3 foot pry-bar under tyre.

While observing joint, Lever tyre upwards and let fall. There should be no lift or movement in the Bottom-Ball-joint.

Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 O' Clock and check for movement inwards and outwards. Again there should be no major movement in the wheel, Slight movement may be wheel-bearing.

Grab wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock, do same again, you may notice some slight movement in steering linkages....
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2010, 07:18 AM
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Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 180
Just did this...

I received a similar quote. Much more with the additional items I did while I had things apart. I took much time to research the threads and too much time worrying about whether I could accomplish it. (85 300D w123 116k mi.)

I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. While I had things apart, I replaced the upper control arm (upper ball joint is part of it), lower ball joint, tie rods, steering damper, repack wheel bearings and front shocks....total cost 326.00.

No doubt the Mercedes ball joint tools would have made it somewhat easier, but I had no problem using the Autozone ball joint kit to press in the ball joint, carefully taking off the grease seal surrounding the joint first. (I threw the ball joint in the freezer for a few hours before and believe it helped) I wouldn't try to do this on the car....take it off....much easier to use whack out the old joint, get things clean. I used a appropriately sized sochet to act as a drift to push out the old joint. Five good...correction GOOD...hits with a 5 # hammer and out it came.

My total time was about 7 1/2 hours to accomplish all of the above with an additional 1/2 hour afterwards for celebratory adult beverages.

Last edited by 300dOwner; 02-19-2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: forgot to add something
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2010, 07:27 AM
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congrats are in order!!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:26 AM
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just buy a ball joint removal tool kit from amazon. i paid $60 for mine. it is basically a heavy duty C clamp.

the wheel bearings are pretty straightforward too.

save your money

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