Delivery Valve seal tool
 

Where can I get the tool to replace the delivery seals. I was at the dealer and it costs 40 bucks and takes up to 2 weeks to get it. Any ideas on where to get the tool besides the dealer.

You might be able to find a semi local member to borrow one, or rent through the forum.

Unfortunately, I'm having injector related problems so I can't loan mine out at the moment. Sorry :(

I think mine was about $35 from the dealer and took a max of 1 day for them to get it. If you look through the FSM, there's a listed part number for the tool. You might be able to find it online (ebay, etc for the hazet tool).

The Mercedes tool number is 617 589 01 09 00, there's a number next to the hazet logo - 4556 - not sure if it means anything.

i thought i got mine thru fastlane but i don't see one listed.must have got it thru mercedes.

This forum has some in the Tool Rental program;in the DIY section.

They sell them On eBay. Search, Mercedes Diesel Injection Pump Valve Socket Engine Tool. or Injection Pump Tool.

Looks like I'll be doing this job, come springtime.

I just used some q-tips and a pick when I did my 240D. No problems.

I was able to replace one of mine with no special tool. Just have to mark on the pump exactly where that little plate thing was. Then once you're done use the hand primer a lot to get the fuel back in there or else the car won't start. And I mean a LOT of priming.

Check Stamstag's site. MUST be for 60x engines. 61x are totally different.

A poor pic of the Business End of the Delivery Valve Socket.

I do not see how you could get the proper torque without it.

Hazet and a Japanese company called Ko-Ken/Koken make them.
Ko-Ken/Koken has a website but it does not show up; perhaps because the site has not been updated since 2006.
I contacted some sellers of other Koken tools but never got an answer back.

I have this socket. I am not using it now. I will PM you with my phone number. I bought it a week ago to do the delivery valve seals on my 99 E300TD. But after replacing all my fuel lines, filters, and o-rings. My starting problem went away and I closely examined my IP for leaks at the DV's and it was clean. So why fix it?

If the tool is still floating around I would love to borrow, rent or otherwise gain access to it. Fast lane is charging $59 for it now. Please respond ASAP if you're able. I was really looking to get this done before next week. Thanks.

Where are you in MD?

I'm in Clinton. Near Andrews Airforce Base.

Hm, I was going to say that you could borrow mine (just pick it up / leave $35 and get your money back when you return it), but...that's quite a drive. :eek:

Lemme know if you're interested.

I just bought one from this forum, just In case I get another Diesel.

Let's see what happens Nate. I really don't have a problem driving to Gaitherburg. My wife works in Laurel. What's you availability?

It is apparent that the tool rental program is a giant secret..............


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=126728

Well Brian I've PM'd a few of the members as stated in the forum and still have been unsuccessful.

Are you serious? There are four members with that socket............

If none of them responds.........advise me and I'll send you mine.

B.C.

I'll wait until Friday and see what happens. I'll be sure to let you know. I was hoping to knock it out this weekend.

I've got two of them. If Brian Carlton backs out on you, I'll send you mine:)

lol!

by the way, don't fear the job. Change all 6 and if you can, use Viton for the o-rings. It holds up a little longer. I bought mine from a member here. I'm sure you can get them from McMaster or Grainger as well.

Thanks Nick, so far you and Brian are the only 2 that have responded as of yet. I haven't gotten the O-rings yet, I was concentrating on getting the tool first. The O-rings I believe are pretty inexpensive and I can gran them from the dealer.
By the way I only have 5 to change.

Just a quick question. What's a fair price to pay for 5 injector nozzles?

Ok yep 2.5. Didn't see that at first. I had a 2.5 602 in my first MB diesel. The first place I took it to said that this was a sign I needed to have my Injection Pump rebuilt (they were an injection shop... no motive there at all:(). The second place was an "Import specialist". Well, not too specialized. They ruined the IP.

After that, no more taking things in if I don't have to. Anyways, just be careful, keep it clean and follow the torque specs and it'll go perfect. It's a very easy job. Just don't loose any bolts for the intake etc. It's really not a bad job. I think it took me around 3-4 hours. Just pick a nice day to do it and take your time. Enjoy it. When you get it all back together it's a good feeling.

By the way I used Viton O-rings from forum member JADavis

I just dug that up. I didn't take any measurements. Should have but I think he still sells them ??? Maybe.

Here's a tutorial. The torque spec is the only thing I'd say to really note... other than how the collars work. Not too tricky of a job.

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes_injection_pump_o_ring_r.htm

I took the supply and return lines off my IP, I actually had my whole IP out because of an oil leak between the block and IP, and had the supply and return lines switched (the brown lines with the banjo fittings) when I put it all back together. The car was getting fuel but only on 5 of 6 of the pump's lines. Switched them back the way they were supposed to go and everything was back to normal. But interesting. Next time I do something I haven't done before, I'll take more pictures of the before just to be safe.

Thanks for the tutorial. Sometimes you just never know what's going to happen when it goes to the shop. It's a hard task to find a trustworthy indy. I also wanted to ask you another question...I'm going to change the injector nozzles pretty soon also. What is a decent price to pay for them? I've checked out a few sites and the prices vary to much.

The only Indy I would trust to Change the O-rings and Crush Washers on a Fuel Injection Pump is one who has done the job before with success.

The regular wrench turners are used to replacing complete components; not getting inside of those components and fixing them.

If they have not done the job before they will have to learn how to do the job; and they really do not have the time to read and follow a how-to-do it; and be careful and clean.

I think success in replacing the O-rings and Crush washers it this case favors a talented armature who will be overly cautious and would be willing to spend even a whole day to get the job done right.

Prices to exchange your Injector Spray Nozzles are going to vary from shop to shop and region to region.

If you are not in a hurry for them member C Sean Watts labor rates are good and he also sells the InjectorSpray Nozzles and I believe even brand new complete Injectors for some Engines.
Another member; bgkast also used to do Injectors but I do not know if he is still doing so.

Thanks for the info. I also read in one the forums I believe...it stated that the crush washers do not need to be replaced(how true is this). Also, I am going to do the job myself. I just don't want to get beat on prices. I'll take care of the delivery vavle seals first and then pick another day to replace the injector nozzles. I want to make sure that I have all needed parts on hand before I begin either job.

Just out of curiosity, other than your mileage, what makes you want to install new nozzles? How long have you had the car and are there obvious problems (noises, smoke, etc)? The reason I ask is that I changed mine right away when I purchased my 87. I don't think it needed nozzles. I didn't drive the car much before doing a bunch of R & R on it. In my opinion, I think I wasted some time and money on things that didn't need to be done.

Also, here's something I noticed with my last MB Diesel. I had some smoke (white) at idle and it seemed a little hesitant to start (not at the touch of the key like my 87 starts now). This was a W123 by the way. I speculated that the timing was retarded due to chain stretch and other wear. I turned the pump advanced a small amount (what I'd guess is 2-3 degrees in distance). It no longer smoked and started up very quickly.

By the way, my 87 (OM603 almost identical to your engine's fuel system) starts almost instantly now after the o-ring change. Literally after a week of sitting I just touch the key (if the GPs are hot) and it fires up instantly. It didn't used to do that before the o-rings. I also slightly advanced this pump when I re-installed it. There are pictures of this job (10 hours or so) in the DIY. It was not the most fun (big job) but payed off when it was done and no more Injection Pump leaks (air, fuel, or oil) and the car runs great.

Well Tom it will be 3 years in Decenber since I've had it. The reason I am considering changing the nozzles is because the engine stammers when coming down from a high idle. My primary concern are the O-rings because of the diesel smell in the interior whenever I use the climate control and the strong smell while the car is idiling. Let alone I can see it leaking. There is only a small amount of white smoke at idle, almost unnoticed at times. Well back to the nozzles; the car idles kind of rough at times, I attribute some of this to the fact that I need to replace the engine mounts also. The exterior of the injectiors are fine with no apparent leaks or damage and I changed the injector lines last year because of moisture aroud the base of a couple. Also, the car is very difficult to start when parked on an upgrade (front higher than rear). I'm going to start with the o-rings and go from there. This is a daily driver so I'll do it little by little until I get it right.

I forgot to mention that I will also be replacing the crankcase seal. It leaves marks everywhere I go. Initially I was going to take it to shop and have the work done, but after reading some of the posts and viewing a few tutorials I think that I'm more than able to do it myself.

There's a lot to what could cause a rough idle. BUT... before I changed my delivery valve o-rings, my knee would shake at a stop light... After the change, it idles smooth as a top. I think the injection pump can actually draw in air as the plungers go down. This can cause a shake. All I know is that after the o-rings, no more shake and a nice smooth idle. My motor mounts are original to the best of my knowledge. I would leave the injectors until after the o-rings. Possibly before the o-rings, I'd check for air in the lines. You mentioned hard to start when parked on an incline. To me that means that there's an air leak in the fuel system somewhere. It could be your delivery valves causing that too. When you're on an incline the IP is almost at the highest point. the fuel will want to drain back to the tank. If the o-rings are not sealing air tight, air can get through them allowing the fuel to move downward with gravity. But to rule out other leaks, install a clear piece of tubing on the fuel return line (from the filter to the return pipe on the driver wheel well).

By the way, my IP didn't leak a drop of fuel visibly but the o-rings were dried and hard as could be. I think the plungers were pulling the seal loose on the downstroke and pushing it closed on the injection stroke. I never saw a drop out of my IP but I'm pretty sure they weren't sealing.

I'm going to replace the o-rings first, hopefully I will get that diesel smell out of the cabin. I'll see how it's running and then I will look for other leaks and such. My engine mounts are pretty worn, primarily the one on the drivers side. The leaky IP doesn't help it much..they definitely need to be replaced. Even with thus little quirk..my 0-60 time is still 12 to 15 secs. She runs fine on the road.

Do the copper washers as well, they have been compressed and may not seal well. Would be very false economy to be right there where you can change them and not do it and get to do the job over again.As a side note after you do this job dont be surprised if you get some clacking and nailing noise when you first start running again,in my case it quieted down after a few hundred miles and others have reported the same thing. Don

Thanks for the side note Don. First time I''ve heard anything about that. A feww hundred miles doesn't sound good.

I had my whole IP out and dumped the oil and fuel out. I didn't have it bone dry but dryer than you'll get it with the o-ring job and there wasn't much clacking. I had it running like new in a little more time than it usually takes to purge the air after a fuel filter change. And yes as Don recommended it's a good idea to change the copper washers. Don't worry, it'll run good right away if everything is done right. I wouldn't be nervous about the job. Just take your time.

Why did you have your whole IP out?

There is one manjor caution. Do not rotate the Engine/Fuel Injection Pump while doing the job (and there is no reason to do so).
As, rotating the Fuel Injecion Pump can cause the Element Barrels to rise up past there alignment pins and if they rotate slightly when you torque them it can damage the housing.

Thanks for the info.

I updated my post; it should have been; the Element Barrels to rise up past there alignment pins...

But, same idea; do not rotate the IP.

I was able to easily replace the delivery valve seals (copper and o-ring) and get the motor to restart.
Letting the car sit for 2 days, it started right up. Previously it wouldn't restart after sitting as little as 2 hours.

I have to perform this same operation on my 86 300sdl. I now have the confidence to just dive in.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...2&d=1276113655

Good job. It's not nearly as scary once you get in there. This forum has given me the confidenc to do one job rught after the next. I might stumble every once in a while, I just step back take a breath, recheck the forum and keep it moving.

Delivery valve Socket Needed
 

(Update to below--I just ordered the tool from Peachparts for $38 as suggested by the member a few posts down. Thanks for the help.)

Hi folks.

I posted in the tool rental thread, so forgive the duplication, I just don't know how to find a member so I can PM them directly. This post might get more exposure. I did pm Mike-in-the-Sky (if you're reading this). Anyway, I'm near Poughkeepsie, NY (midway between NY City and Albany, NY) and have to do the delivery valve seals/washers on my '87. If anybody within reasonable driving distance has the tool and wouldn't mind renting/selling/lending it to me, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any help and thanks for the help in this post.

-Roy

dont go through snap-on
 

I am doing the same job in my 92 300d, and couldnt find the ool anywhere so i thought id ask my mechanic buddy before i ordered online here. Next thing I know, he ordered it. It took 2.5 weeks on back order and was $80.00!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: I dont even want to take it outta the package yet...So yeah dont go through snap on...

Its for sale here for $38.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?qty=1&sku=KO4133

Google search found this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/184602-617-0109-splined-serrated-socket-diesel-delivery-valve-tool.html
Which links to the tool above.


I got mine on ebay in combination with the pump locking tool for a bit more. Would have purchased here had I found it first.

This was an easy job. Well worth having your own socket.

Enjoy.

Thanks for the information. $38 is far better than the $60 to $80 I've been seeing/hearing. Thought I'd seen a reference to Peachparts being in that range, so shame on me for not actually checking myself.

Mercedes has them ,a dealership here in Houston first told me to go thru Snap off, then I called back with little luck thru Snap off and was pleased to hear that they can get them for $38. Youll need the tool number (make sure its right)and will have to prepay for it but then you get to pick it up in 3 days.The seals at 1.40 each ,washers at $3.45 each.I was prepaired to drive it in to a shop but it just bugs me to do that when its such an easy job.Those Mercedes service centers are like Hotel Lobbies with a duluxe coffee bar waiting .

This procedure would be the same for my "85" Euro 617 & 616s? with the "M" pump?:confused: Same "O" ring and sealing ring?

Check out the tool rental program.