what else to replace during an axle replacement job
 

I’ve read about every post I could find about replacing the axles. So I’m in the process of replacing both my axles on my 1987 300SDL all the boots look like they are about to crack open. And I really don’t want to reboot them, I would feel better if I just replaced the complete axle.

I’m going to order;

2 Axle Assembly FEQ W0133-1800030$0.00$127.74 $255.48
2 Diff. Side Cover Seal OES GENUINE W0133-1637842 $0.00 $5.20 $10.40

But should I also order the rubber sub frame mounts, and the seal for the cover for the differential, 2 new C clips that hold the axles in place, and the rubber mount that supports the differential. I do not want to do this job again. I would rather just do everything at once and do it right the first time. So what else do I need to purchase before I start this job?

I’m also going to replace the in-tank fuel screen while I’m in there.

Thank you for your help.

Subframe mounts are going to be a PITA. Are you sure you're up to that job?

I might be wrong. Also, I wouldn't replace the C-clips. Aren't they spaced specifically for each diff? They aren't a wear item.

The diff side seals are an no-brainer.

How about the differential mount.

He covered that.

I do understand that the submounts will be a PITA. And I might wait tell I have more time to work on that project. (wait tell its warmer outside) Okay so the c clips don't need to be replaced. But the differentail mount is completely gone. So I'm going to be replacing that too.

What else, I know I'm missing something.

I plan on using amsoil differentail oil so I have that covered.

Here is the link to the diff mount. # MBZ085856 $53.64
http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&yearid=1987%40%401987&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1 194083%40%40300SDL++%2F+L6%2D2998cc+3%2E0L+DIESEL+FI++Turbo%40%40300SDL&keyword=differential+mount&s ubcatid=Rear+Differential+Mount@@Rear+Differential+Mount%2FRear+Differential&mode=PA

flex joints on the driveshaft?

I had mine done by an indy a couple years ago but I supplied the parts. Gave him 2 new stub axle bolts because there is some type of coating on the threads. Also 2 new crush washers available from the dealer.
And remember to look for the spacers on the old axle (on the diff end)

Those sub frame bushing can be a royal pain.

If the dif mount is wobbly I would change it.

Same with the diff to axle seals.

Dont forget the spacer washers between the dif and axle.
You may need them and others to get the new axles to fit to spec.

My only other suggestion is to check the emergency brakes and see if they are dragging.

Lots of dragging brakes on these cars.

And give the trailing arm bearings a good spin to see what kind of shape they are in.

And if you want I might buy the old axles from you.

Have Fun !

looks like I'll be picking up some replace washer/clamping disc/cupped washer/tensioning washer and two nuts to from him.

whilst some folks got money to burn...
 

others like me just fix stuff when actually broke.

When my axle went, I was warned "better do them both, the other will break next", but I chose to only do the one side.
That was two years ago; still no issue.

The biggest deal about the job is doing it the first time. Now that I have done it, I have no issues about going in again. It is not that difficult; imo it is a harder time changing a starter than an axle, frankly.

Seals, if they are leaking, but if not.. I didn't bother. Still no leak. (i seem to recall two different types of lubricating styles on those seals, for my car at least (1980); make sure you use the right ones. Gasket sealer on the pan made life easy.

The best advice I see here is "Dont forget the spacer washers between the dif and axle"- Pay close attention to the spacing on each side.

And of course, you will be prying at stuff underneath a heavy car that needs to be properly supported to not crush you...take this very seriously.

Have fun, it feels great to save a bundle on this one!

CVJ axle vs. New from MB
 

I think I already know the answer to this question, but I was once told that if you are willing to ask, then there are no stupid questions. I am in need of a right rear axle replacement. The indy shop manager sourced out a new axle from the stealership for $675:eek:. Not being made of money, I've read great reviews on the CVJ remanufactured axles. I can get one for about $177 plus shipping and $100 core. Since my car is currently four hours from my house, having it towed home and tackling the job myself isn't as cost effective as just having the indy perform the labor. Any thoughts are much appreciated.

Both the rubber brake hoses for the rear.

I've read the thread and I don't see RTV sealant mentioned - If you have to remove the diff cover (to get to the clips for the earlier axles) then you'll need to clean the mating surfaces and re-seal.

As for the retaining washers that hold the axles into the hub - the FSM says you need to put in NEW ones. When I first read this I thought yeah right... but then I measured the rear camber with and without the axles fitted: There was a difference of about 1 degree. So if you imagine that your axle retaining washers (also come with many other names) are cupped and not straight then you may get some camber related wear issues on your tyres.

If you want have a look at my experience of the sub frame bushing removal

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276507-rear-subframe-removal-bushing-replacement.html

If you have been reading lots of other posts, I'm sure you have heard this before. But, I'm going to say it again. Keep your old axles! You may regret it if you don't. If they make no noise and all you have is torn boots, you still have a set of good axles that can still be re-booted if you end up with "axle remorse".

My car fell victim to the cheap aftermarket axle problem. 15,000 miles later I am back on a set of salvaged MB axles that have been re-booted.

I am not familiar with the quality of the FEQ axles, but they "look" just like the ones that I had (the ones that failed). I would be curious to hear stories of longevity with these particular axles. There are many on here with CVJ's axles and they have a following. For less than you are about to pay.

It is critical to shim them right or you will have clunking. Take the time to get the proper shims if you need them. Also, be sure that the outer cans pull all the way into the hub bearing. I have found that sometimes the spacer will not allow the axle to pull all the way in. This caused it to come loose over time. I actually had to modify one of my spacers to get it to fit properly with a different set of axles.

save yourself some money on the whole project first. i'll shut up about this website sometime but, same axle halves are $88.94 each from *********. parts are in stock and since you in austin, i'm guessing they have a nearby warehouse, all ground rate orders come next day if ordered before 3pm.

http://www.*********.com/catalog/1987/mercedes/300sdl/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/axle_assembly.html

i've heard both good and bad on these FEQ. bad, lasted a year and a half. good, over 40k miles in 2 years and everything is good. the nice thing about these axles is they can be worked on/replaced much easier because they can be separated at the differential end by removing alan bolts. that would cut repair time in half if one ever went bad.