Report: changed engine mount

[paddo]

did this (driver side) in a fever last night because of the big freeze coming in.
Thought it might take an hour or maybe 2 but took an aggravating and (the last 1/2) toe-freezing in the dark 4+ hours. Included a trip to the parts store to get an 8mm hex bit (can't use normal hex "L"s since too deep, need socket and extension) since someone told me I just needed a 5mm hex.
AFter getting the big-un out the little upper ones were the big problem. mount had completely broken and rubber was hard-mashed into the boltheads - took a while to even find them, then couldn't get the socket into the hole for an hour or so. About this time I went safely inside and screamed abuse and stamped the floor for 30 sec or so - to avoid exploding on the street and neighbors thinking I am crazy - felt a bit better after that. Eventually figured out a use for the super long blade screwdriver I got at a dollar store a while ago (for no reason other than it was $1) - head fit inside the hex slots and screwed around to gouge out the rubber enough so I could then pound the bit in to get it to take.
Moral of the story, don't wait for the MM to collapse b4 replacing.

Of course it would be a lot quicker next time even in that state, since I now know where the bolts are, sizes and how to get them out. mounts were ebay super cheapies so hopefully'll be OK, looks OK so far and car no longer sounds like a tractor or feels like a whole-body massager (old one was metal to metal). If not I get to apply my new skill soonish with good ones like from PP.

Now I have a spare and wondering if the other side should also be replaced. Looks OK with decent elevation of about 1/2 inch, but rubber looks sort of puffy or something. I'm inclined to just wait until it is starting to actually crack apart, esp since the old one is likely a genuine part.

OH one difficulty I had was engine would not jack up enough to allow the new one in - turned out that a) aircleaner top was up against battery compartment (so I just took off the top lid) and b) one of the heater coolant hoses was between the top of engine and the firewall, and stopping it from separating any further - it has to tilt backwards.