603 No Start- possibilities?

[New2MB]

Well I finally got to topping off my fluids and cranking her over today.

I pulled the powertrain 3 years ago and half way through my project had to stop and store it for awhile.

This summer I put it all back together and just dropped the engine and trans back in 2 weeks ago.

So today I cranked and cranked and cranked and... nothing, not even a sputter. Honestly I was just happy that no valves hit pistons.

After a bit of cranking I saw that fuel was back in the lines and I cracked the #1 injector to see that indeed there was fuel.

In my excitment to get her going I forgot to put fresh fuel in the filter so I'm thinking 3 year old fuel could be the problem.

I also did not have the tool for setting the timing on the IP so I did it visually. It took several attempts but I'm fairly confident that I lined it up right.

So I'm wondering a few of things;
1. Do I need to crack the injector lines while someone is cranking in order to bleed air out?
2. Would that old fuel alone make it impossible to start?
3. How close to perfect does the IP timing need to be in order for the car to simply run?
4. What are some other likely sources I should be investigating?

Glow plugs are new and seem to be operating, they all worked just fine when I took the engine out. The engine did not have any trouble starting prior to disassembly.

Thanks!

[scottmcphee]

My first guess is air in the fuel.

But...

Got any compression?

Did you remember to put new crush washers back in with the injectors?

How did you set timing?

[MercFan]

Originally Posted by New2MB

1. Do I need to crack the injector lines while someone is cranking in order to bleed air out?
2. Would that old fuel alone make it impossible to start?
3. How close to perfect does the IP timing need to be in order for the car to simply run?
4. What are some other likely sources I should be investigating?

I don't think old fuel would be a problem... I needed to crack my hard lines after I've removed my injectors for service. You need to see the fuel dripping from the hard lines - when you do, tighten them up.

How did you time the IP - it needs to be done precisely preferably with the timing tool the you could rent here.

[New2MB]

I haven't checked compression but I did not remove the pistons so I'm fairly certain compression is good. Now that you mention it I vaguely recall having bought a compression gauge for this car. I'll have to look around.

IP timing was set by eye, I do not have the tool. However, it appeared to be set spot on after several attempts. Is this a very touchy adjustment? I was under the impression that as long as I was relatively close it would run and I could then fine tune it from there. Is that not the case?

I'll get the lines cracked and ensure I've got good fuel flow.

I also found the output shaft seal on the transmission is leaking like a sieve. I'll be wishing I'd done that while the trans was out when I'm down there on my back for hours.

[jonbobshinigin]

Loosen the line at the main Fuel filter. The system is supposed to be self bleeding but I have never seen it work that well. I always crack the main line till it is spewing a bit and you can hear the engine begin to crank after a bit. I think it is the middle bolt.

[layback40]

Give it a spray of WD40in the air inlet, best not to have an air filter element in place. It should fire on the WD40 & then run on the diesel.

[jonbobshinigin]

If it is getting fuel, there should be no need of spraying something. There have been a lot of discussions about starter fluid and whatnot being used. Work on other things first. Every starting issue I've had has been a due issue, whether it be a clogged filter or air in the lines.

[layback40]

jon,
Dont get WD40 mixed up with starter fluid. They are not the same. WD40 is ok, starter fluid is not.