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  #1  
Old 03-25-2010, 06:39 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Driveshaft centering bushings ... any magic to removing them?

I managed on my 123 last summer, to get those dratted centering bushings out of the driveshaft. I put the shaft in a vice, drilled through the bushing, torched them and then pried them out using an allen wrench through the hole and a pry bar on each side of the bushing. I'm doing it on my 124 right now, and it is no way, no how interested in coming out. I left some penetrating oil in there for overnight so maybe that'll help. I did also try torching today, to no avail. Any neat tips or tricks to this?
I'm so eager to get this driveshaft back in the car now that I have all the parts and a little sunshine. I haven't driven it since December.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2010, 06:48 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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Bump

so,I can find the forthcoming answer later.
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2010, 07:05 PM
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When I did my 123 I drill a hole like you did and put in a metal rod and drove a wedge in each side between the flange and the rod. Then hammered each wedge in a little at a time. It's came right out.
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  #4  
Old 03-25-2010, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
When I did my 123 I drill a hole like you did and put in a metal rod and drove a wedge in each side between the flange and the rod. Then hammered each wedge in a little at a time. It's came right out.
Wedges, that's a good idea. My dad thought up a pickle fork, kinda the same concept I guess. I'll try it tomorrow, if I have time. It's supposed to be my off day, but for some reason my bosses decided I should spend my off days writing columns that I benefit from in no way.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2010, 08:49 PM
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Have you tried calling a tranny shop for advice? My 124 manual is on my old computer, but I'd swear from what I remember that you shouldn't have to resort to those methods to replace the center bearing. My old tranny guy up in NC did the flex discs and center bearing PLUS all the external seals on the tranny in less than a day.

Don't quote me on this, but I seem to remember that you have to undo the coupling between the two halves of the driveshaft. Then, on the part that has the center bearing, the coupling end screws off and the bearing should slide or screw off the driveshaft then.
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2010, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retmil46 View Post
Have you tried calling a tranny shop for advice? My 124 manual is on my old computer, but I'd swear from what I remember that you shouldn't have to resort to those methods to replace the center bearing. My old tranny guy up in NC did the flex discs and center bearing PLUS all the external seals on the tranny in less than a day.

Don't quote me on this, but I seem to remember that you have to undo the coupling between the two halves of the driveshaft. Then, on the part that has the center bearing, the coupling end screws off and the bearing should slide or screw off the driveshaft then.
I looked at the AllData procedure, which I think is reasonably close to the FSM. It shows two kinds: One had divots in the centering bushings so one can hammer it out of place using a chisel. The other (mine) does not, and it shows the drill and pry method for that. I removed the driveshaft and have it in two pieces ... it looks almost exactly like the 123 driveshaft. I'll reinvestigate tomorrow though.
Just to clarify the terminology (which I may have wrong) ... I have already removed the center bearing that goes between the two pieces of the driveshaft ... that part was pretty easy using a puller tool. I'm talking about the centering bushings, the little cylindrical pieces that go on either end of the driveshaft. They do not have to be replaced with the couplings and center bearing, but I noticed one looked a bit beat up, so I'm replacing them on principle.
here's a picture from last year when I did the 240D:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #7  
Old 03-25-2010, 10:42 PM
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Here is what I was dealing with. This is part of what happens when the PO lets the flex disc give out.

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  #8  
Old 03-25-2010, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Here is what I was dealing with. This is part of what happens when the PO lets the flex disc give out.

Ouch!!! My flex disc blew on the 240D and the front bushing was a little mushed on the inside, but no where near that bad. Hope you can get it out. It looks like you could still drill through it.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2010, 11:34 PM
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That was when I bought the car at 258k miles, now it's at 305k mi, so it's held up well.
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'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
That was when I bought the car at 258k miles, now it's at 305k mi, so it's held up well.
Ah, didn't catch the past tense on that. Yeah, my 240's done quite fine since I cleaned up the driveshaft mess. I was surprised at how fixable the damage was. But I'd rather not do it again, hence the pre-emptive action on the 300.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:02 AM
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You could try vise grips with a slide hammer most slide hammers come with the attaching bolt to make it feasible. You could also weld a large nut to it and grab it with a bearing puller if its really stuck.

That is if I'm seeing the problem correctly. The whole metal center comes out or just the rubber? If just the rubber and the holder needs to be straightened heat it cherry red with a torch and straighten it with a piece of 1/4 flat same ID as the holder. Twist it with a cresent while heating to straighten it enough to hold the bushing.
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86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2010, 08:58 PM
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Well ... the rear one is out. I heated it up good and went at it with the pry bars again and it popped out. The front one, however, is something beyond stuck. My dad and I spent all afternoon heating it, prying at it, and slamming wedges onto either side of it. It won't budge. My dad thought a bearing puller might work, too, but I'd have to look at one before I understand the concept. I'll also look into a slide hammer like you suggested Soot. This is uber frustrating. Pretty simple job and like always, I'm stuck on one thing. I probably should have left the old bushing in ... I mean, this one didn't look bad at all. The rear one looked bad and I was replacing both on principle.
The battle goes on ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #13  
Old 03-27-2010, 09:56 PM
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Well, I tried a slide hammer and I'm apparently not smart enough to use it ... or it just isn't working. I can't weld so that isn't really an immediate option. I've torched the life out of it, hammered wedges under it, and pried with all my strength. I think I'm going to need a new driveshaft, all because of one stupid bushing. I'll take the driveshaft half to my mechanic on Monday and see what he thinks. Maybe there's a perfect tool I'm just not thinking of, or don't have.

I only had one half of a day off this week, and I didn't make any progress on either car. I hate that kind of day.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2010, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Well, I tried a slide hammer and I'm apparently not smart enough to use it ... or it just isn't working. I can't weld so that isn't really an immediate option. I've torched the life out of it, hammered wedges under it, and pried with all my strength. I think I'm going to need a new driveshaft, all because of one stupid bushing. I'll take the driveshaft half to my mechanic on Monday and see what he thinks. Maybe there's a perfect tool I'm just not thinking of, or don't have.

I only had one half of a day off this week, and I didn't make any progress on either car. I hate that kind of day.
Bohdi, heres a video of what I was talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTpNAVPsz7Y


Its good for an example but by no means a new product. I found a 5 pound slide hammer set for 20.00 at the pawn shop chepo Taiwan set it came with the vise grip attachment. Its lasted for years. Autozone should have them on the loaner program. If your having problems with it not biting stick a bolt in the center to prevent the outer edge from crushing down. This way you can really clamp down with the vise grips.

Last resort would be to burn it out with a torch but I would leave that to the mechanic or a welder. They will be able to see when the bushing is melting as opposed to the drive line.

Good luck !
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #15  
Old 03-28-2010, 04:43 PM
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Thanks! I think I sort of had the right idea, but I didn't realize you could attach vice grips like that ... that makes a lot more sense now. I'm guessing the grips would just strip the bushing, but it's worth a try.

I'll probably swing by my indy with the driveshaft tomorrow and see what he thinks. If all else fails maybe he can get it out.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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