Does anyone know how to fix a stuck fuel gauge? My gauge still reads full even though I have travelled 275 miles since my last fill up. Has someone come across this problem without having to remove and rebuild the tank float? Also need help in replacing instrument cluster lights. Do you need to remove the cluster lights itself(meaning also having to remove the steering wheel) or can this be reached from the bottom panel of the dashboard? Do you need special tool to get this done? Appreciate any help

But I suspect you're gonna end up pulling the Fuel Level sensor tube from the
Tank.

Is the '96 a W124 or the W210 ?
The W124's instrument cluster just pulls out of the dash(After removing the Speedo cable)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

No tools needed to access the fuel sender.

Open the trunk, peel back the carpeting from the forward-most wall of the trunk and the fuel tank is staring you in the face. Rotate the sender to remove.

With key on, you can actually hold the sender in your hand and watch (through the back window) the fuel gauge moving as you move the sender.

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Mark in MA
05 MB E320CDI 402k Granite Grey Metallic
05 MB E320CDI 267k Black
05 MB E320CDI 232k White
05 MB E320CDI 209k Tectite Grey
99 Dodge 2500 Cummins 5sp 148k
62 Jeep CJ-6 120k

This is a w210. Any suggestions?

Thanks, I'll work on it this weekend

210 cluster pulls out of the dash too, but there is no speedo cable.

Put the steering wheel all the way back and down before you start. Then there is just enough room to move the cluster to the left and invert it without disconnecting the cables, if you are just changing bulbs.

If you have a fixed steering wheel, you may have to remove it.

If you do disconnect the cables to the cluster, don't turn the ignition on.

I have the same issue, and it turns out that the gauge is bad, and not the sender. When I purchased the car, service records indicated that the fuel gauge was diagnosed as bad, but to be sure, I used a resistor that emulated the sending units signal, and the gauge did not move one iota from the full position. I also found out that you cannot just replace the gauge portion in the cluster, the whole thing needs to be sent in for repairs. I have a Scangauge installed, and that provides a fuel usage feature that is just as accurate as the built in gauge, plus you end up with a code reader, and about 20 other useful real time readouts you can use. Good luck!

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96 E300d

Thanks, Matt. I read in a service manual that there is a special MB tool ( like a hook) to pull the dash out- is this true?

Yes, there is a tool. It is a pair of hooks. They're not very expensive, but I made my own out of a coat hanger.

The hard part is finding the grooves on the back of the cluster and catching them with the hooks. You should do a search to see pictures of the cluster when out, and the hook position that you need to get it to release. You'll also see a picture of the hooks.

It can be easily done without damaging any of the parts, including the wooden trim near the cluster. If it's never been out, you'll have to pull pretty hard to get it to release.

Some people prefer to take the AC vent out of the dash and push from behind.

Thanks, what it a Scangauge is it like a diagnostic tool ? How is it installed- is it through the obd port under the dash?

Its a fantastic little item. It plugs into the obd port, and I have the gauge itself mounted on the steering wheel post using velcro so it can be removed easily. It reads and clears error codes, gives real time water temp. and voltage readings, along with miles per gallon (has about 15 real time readouts that can be set) . It will also keep track of your fuel usage, and after about 3 fill ups, it will usually compute your fuel usage within 1/2 a gallon. Sounds like I am doing a commercial, but it is one of the best tools I have ever purchased.








http://scangauge.com/

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96 E300d

1997 E300D

Can anyone give advice on this? I am trying to help a friend with a Check Engine MIL. Research is showing that it could be a bad bulb for the temp sensor. It is quite convenient that the temp warning lamp appears to be dead during the status check at start up (and never seems to illuminate).

Code we pulled was p1369. We couldnt clear it.

We tried a hook tool to slip back next to the cluster. It wont budge as we gently pull.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.