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Stoping power decreased
Ok, all of a sudden my stoping power has really decreased and I really have to apply pressure to stop the car. When it stops the rotors shudder. I can still drive it, it's not TOO bad but I don't have good stoping power. I have to push the pedal all the way hard to stop the car. I'm sure my rotor's are not warped, but they are old. I checked the brake fluid, that's OK. The brake booster and master cylinder were replaced last year. What could be the problem?
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Quote:
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Along the vacuum line, there is a valve not too far from the booster. Can it be the cuplit? I do not think you can buy just the valve. You have to buy the entire vacuum line. Check it with a vacuum gauge. Make sure you do not have clogged flex hoses.
David Last edited by be459; 12-07-2001 at 12:59 AM. |
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another possibility
I recently replaced the tortion bar bushings, and had to detatch the master cylinder and brake booster and move it forward (while still attached to brake lines) in order to access the bushing. When I put it back together, my brakes were terrible. When shutting off the car, I heard a vacuum leak from junction between master cylinder and booster. I loosened nuts, cleaned, put silicone grease on "O"ring, and reassembled. Then, the car would shut off ok, but I would still have brake problems...intermittently no power assist.
I noticed that the "O" ring was a standard round "O" ring, and did not appear thick enough to provide good seal. I ordered a new "O"ring, and replaced the old one. The new one was different....rather than having a round cross section, the new one was square and a little thicker. After installing new seal, I have not had any problem whatsoever. So, you might be getting leakage through this seal. $2.50 at dealer, easy to replace without detaching brake lines...just pull master cylinder forward enough to get clearance....make sure both mating surfaces are clean. Put a little silicone grease on seal to help it seal. good luck, Mark
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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver) 1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky) |
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SV,
I have not heard anyone explain why the shuddering and so on you describe will go away if you address the master cylinder. Is the feeling coming from the front brakes or the rear? Do you have to pump the pedal to get the car to stop? Does the pedal sink slowly to the floor? How do you know the discs are not warped? When was the last time you changed pads? I would be concerned as the shuddering is originating at the brake on either both front wheels, or at least one of them. A vacuum leak would explain needing to push really hard on the pedal, as you now have to make up for the lost assist from the vacuum booster. But that does not explain the shuddering either. I once had a fuel leak that soaked the left front brake with Diesel fuel, making the brakes pull severely. It also introduced a shuddering. I have also soaked the brakes with water and made the pads seem useless until they dried out. This also introduced a shuddering that went away once the brakes were back to normal. Anyway, my point is I think the problem lies in the brake assemblies at each wheel, as the vacuum leak and master cylinder only address half the symptoms. Good Luck, Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
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Thanks for all your help guys. |
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First of all, let me say that I think the vacuum boost system is the first thing to check.
Also, if both rotors on the front are warped, it is possible for them to go "in synchronization" at times and at other times be perfectly out of sync. What I mean by this is the warping of one rotor causes a pulsating feeling. Well, you add a second rotor, that pulsating will either be in phase (larger overall pulse) or out of phase (they cancel). As you go around turns the "phase" changes, resulting in the pulsating being worse at some times than others. Warping is typically caused by a frozen caliper piston on one side of the caliper assembly. This means you are applying pressure against only one brake pad, generating heat on only one side of the rotor. Uneven heat causes the warping. This also can reduce stopping power. There are other reasons for brake rotor warping, but I think I've mentioned the most common. You may be looking at a front end brake job with a rebuild of the calipers. An inspection with the wheels off might show one brake pad considerably more worn than the other on each side. If so, that points to a stuck caliper piston on the side where the pad isn't wearing. Ken300D |
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SV
When was the last time you replaced your rotors? MB recommends new rotors every third pad replacement, and my mechanic replaces them when he sees or feels a ridge at the outer edge where the pads don't quite reach. There is a reason for this -- when the rotors get too thin, the ATE type caliper will bind -- the backing on the pads will contact the anti-rattle sping and cock the pistons. Results in VERY hard pedal (as the pads are only being forced onto the rotor at the bottom edge) and will eventually cause the pistons to seize, dragging the brakes and roasting the rubber dust cover and piston seal. The caliper will then either stick and drag, or stick and not work (hard pedal), pull hard, or leak fluid along with the above. I suspect you either have stuck calipers, undersized rotors, or contamination of the brake pads with oil or brake fluid -- or the pads are completely gone and you are running on the backing plate. That usually causes borrible grinding, though (I've done it!). Pull the wheel and check the pads, or have it done pronto -- bad brakes are an accident waiting to happen! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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