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  #1  
Old 05-07-2010, 10:02 AM
Darthgrader's Avatar
W123 Forever!
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: So. Cal., born and raised. Never left, though I fantasize about it often.
Posts: 45
1982 300D: A New Hope

Well, after three months of obsessive searching, I finally got my new old replacement car: a China Blue 1982 300D, and she is a beauty. My old 300D, an 85, was totaled at the beginning of February, and I've been depressed ever since. No more!

I could not have gotten through this were it not for many kind folks on this forum. You all taught me what to look for, where to look, and how to deal with my insurance company. JeffreyNMemphis and TylerH860 talked me down when I was tempted to jump off the 1971 280SEL gasser ledge. (I needed a daily driver and have no mechanical experience--just a lust for classics.) Daw_Two talked to me for nearly an hour on the phone teaching me how to search for rust properly. Jeremy5848 provided me with an exhaustive checklist to find potential issues. SD300TD, SkidRowJoe, and TNBob sent me leads on possible replacement cars. JimSmith, VSTech, and WHunter gave me advice on the PPI process.

I am very grateful to you.

She's got 110,000 documented miles shown through Carfax and service records, and ZERO rust. The car was on the East Coast for the past three years--in TX the rest of the time. I paid $6,500. I know that's going to seem super high to many veterans here, but remember, I can't do my own mechanical work--yet--and the car is very clean. She was delivered yesterday. ($1300, top loaded, enclosed shipping from CT to CA--a steal, and I'm only a bit over what I received from my insurance payout.)

I took her straight to my indy MB mechanic and will pick her up tomorrow. Everyone in the shop came over to see and oohed and awed over it. And they all started laughing when I told them how excited I was about the warning triangle, first-aid kit, and tool kit being present and correct. (This is what I am reduced to with my ignorance of mechanical concerns! )

I am absolutely stunned at how much more power this car has than my 85 California version 300D did. The EGR valve is bypassed via the BB trick, and there's none of that other trap oxidizer business to impede performance. This car feels zippy and positively light. I never thought I'd say that about a 300D.

I am absolutely thrilled to be back in a vintage MB. I've been driving a borrowed 1995 Lincoln low-rider couch rocket, and while I have been utterly grateful for the transportation, it was depressing as hell to drive it--a daily reminder of what I lost. I am so happy to hear the diesel engine again and look out over the glossy hood to see the three-pointed star.



Without further ado, these are the pictures I have now. (No engine pics yet, but it's clean as a whistle.) I am particularly impressed with the condition of the interior and the wheels, and the paint looks perfect.

Here are the pictures.


Thanks you guys . . . for everything!


__________________
Current car:
1982 300D A New Hope! Three-plus tons of China blue steel, rubber, and magic.

Past cars:

1985 300D, Glorious anthracite on black. Gracie. (R.I.P.)
The rest were crappy--including a 1970 Orange Gremlin.

Last edited by Darthgrader; 05-08-2010 at 10:34 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-07-2010, 10:27 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,220
Sweet looking ride! A friend of mine had one just like it.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Washington D.C.
Posts: 276
Very impressive looking car! Congrats and welcome back.
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1983 300 Turbo-"Nora"
1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love
1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:53 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Nice car, well done.
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83 SD

84 CD
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2010, 06:55 PM
ImBroke's Avatar
Diesel way of Life
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cleveland, NY
Posts: 2,230
He shoots, he scores!!! Looks great. Must be an early build 82, with the chrome cowl vents.
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:08 PM
Skid Row Joe's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,470
You're welcome...

Looks like a peach of a car!

Let us know your mechanic's assessment of your car.
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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:20 PM
Stevo's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW WA
Posts: 6,299
Very nice, my favorite color combo
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2010, 07:44 PM
TnBob's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Shelbyville, Tn
Posts: 1,907
Most of us understand the jonesing you have done for another MB so we this time will not get into pricing.

Very clean looking MB and hopefully your indy will concur.

At least now you have several yrs to 'get your hands dirty' before you will be out looking for another one for you.
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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2010, 08:07 PM
layback40's Avatar
Not Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
good looking car. The steering wheel looks like the mileage as well.

Best of luck with it !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 05-08-2010, 12:48 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 27,018
welcome back, and you're welcome!
thrilled you got one you love. my 83 TD is zippy like that, amazing to me.
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  #11  
Old 05-08-2010, 01:42 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
Chairman of my Benz
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 4,159
Very nice purchase. Looks great. Congratulations!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darthgrader View Post
....
I am absolutely stunned at how much more power this car has than my 85 California version 300D did. The EGR valve is bypassed via the BB trick, and there's none of that other trap oxidizer business to impede performance. This car feels zippy and positively light. I never thought I'd say that about a 300D.
...
It could be attributed from a number of things. But one thing is the difference in rear axle gearing. Your '85 had a taller gear. So take offs would be a bit slower.


.
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- GreaseCar Veg System


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  #12  
Old 05-08-2010, 07:52 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,452
You are very welcome, glad I could help. Beautiful Car!
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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2010, 11:19 AM
Darthgrader's Avatar
W123 Forever!
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: So. Cal., born and raised. Never left, though I fantasize about it often.
Posts: 45
Thanks so much you guys! My mechanic, Broadway German Auto Service in Long Beach, felt that I made an excellent choice, and his validation was a huge relief. I trust him.

He said the car was very well maintained--new Bilsteins all around, new starter, engine mounts, and a noteworthy lack of rust even on parts that routinely show it. I am going to need brake pads sometime before the end of the summer depending on driving. The seller included a set of OEM pads, which is exactly what my mechanic would have ordered--he's not big on ceramics. Right now I am not thrilled with the way the brakes feel--a bit spongy and not as responsive as I am used to, so I am going to get this done ASAP.

I had all the belts replaced--some were a bit cracked, probably from the harsh temperature extremes in CT, and all fluids replaced, including power steering and radiator fluid. Oil change, too. He put in a new shift bushing, and the expansion tank for the radiator was cracked, so that was replaced as well. (He tried to explain what a shift bushing was, but I didn't get it. I'll have to look it up. I really want to learn my parts!)

One of the many reasons I trust my mechanic is that he takes the time to tell me what I need to budget for in the future, so we have a long-term plan of attack. Around the end of the year, depending on my driving, I am looking at ball joints and upper control arms. (Two more things I need to look up!)

Next year, he said we should look at replacing the drive shaft flex disc and consider a new muffler. Apparently there's a tiny hole in mine. He said this is mostly about noise--and the car is so quiet now that I'm not too worried.

Oh and I have a tiny crack in my CV boot on the passenger side rear. No clunking noise or leaking. He said to watch for leaks or noise. I've heard that sound before on my old car.

He didn't seem too concerned about the timing belt. . . I may have to ask him when I go in for brakes. Can such a thing be checked, or is it more about just doing it at specific mileage increments?


DeliveryValve when you say that my 85 had "taller gear," do you mean that this part was actually taller? (Pardon my extreme ignorance--I want to learn this stuff.)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3058/3866256307_0369bd95ce_b.jpg

Is that a picture of the differential? And the rear axles connect to that, right?

Is it that round part that is taller--the bit with the teeth? I can't for the life of me understand how that affects torque--except for a smaller "circle thing" would rotate faster, all else being equal. Shouldn't have skipped physics in college!


Okay, so here's the tally:
Brake pads, in the next few months.
Ball joints (3) by end of year.
Upper control arms by end of year.
Drive shaft flex disc next year.
Muffler next year unless things get noisy sooner.
Unsure: CV boot and timing chain

This is about what I expected--I know it's a 28-year old car. What do you think?
__________________
Current car:
1982 300D A New Hope! Three-plus tons of China blue steel, rubber, and magic.

Past cars:

1985 300D, Glorious anthracite on black. Gracie. (R.I.P.)
The rest were crappy--including a 1970 Orange Gremlin.

Last edited by Darthgrader; 05-08-2010 at 12:05 PM.
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  #14  
Old 05-08-2010, 12:11 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Seems you have a good handle on things, but I'll add my 2 cents anyway.
There is a minimum thickness of the pads and rotors too. I'll suggest obtaining the Factory Service Manual on cd-rom from here; http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/MB/cstmsearch.asp?MYID=1036&SDID=1271&MDID=1163&ENID=1156&catalog_name=Retail
For $20 plus shipping, a very good price for much info. Measure the rotors, they may need replacing too.
I'll say this tho, unless the ball joint boots are torn or they squeak, leave 'em alone.
The UCA has a bushing that will wear out and a new one comes with the upper ball joint installed. The lower ball joints are a different story, again, if they aren't causing any problems, no need to fix it.
If you replace the flex disc/s, replace the center bearing too.
Pay close attention to CV boot, if it doesn't currently leak, you'll be okay, treat it if you can. But if left to allow dirt and dust in, that can be costly as it leads to a half shaft replacement.
The timing chain can be adjusted via an offset woodruf key, your mechanic knows what that is.
The shift bushing is a plastic pice that fails after many years. I think there are three, I've replaced the lower one.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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84 CD
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  #15  
Old 05-08-2010, 01:14 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Nice straight car by the looks of it - good find!

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