I got the motor in, bolted to the mounts and ALL the transmission connections hooked up and the driveshaft connected.

I am now working on hooking up the rest of the connections. I still have to put the condenser and the radiator back in, too.

It's getting dark outside though... I think I'm gonna quit for now. I don't really want to rush connecting everying else together in one single breath anyway...

What do I do when I have it all connected and filled with oil/atf/zerex/ps? Just pray, then prime and start? Any special procedure to starting for the 1st time?

Put your battery on the charger over night.
Plenty of cranking to get fuel up the hard lines will be needed. Dont overheat the starter.
Dont rev it up when it first starts & have some one ready at the stop leaver if it tries to rev up.

Once its running, vary the revs up and down ~ 1000 to 2000 rpm for a minute or 3.
Check for leaks.
Take it for a drive if all is well. Dont labor it or rev it too much. Try and vary the revs.

If you put plenty of oil around the pistons/rings when you assembled it, expect a bit of smoke when it starts.

Have you double checked the cam & IP timing ?

We all have our fingers crossed for a good start !!

I used Sta-lube assembly lube on all the parts that come in contact: cylinder walls, rings, bearings, crankshaft, and also on the valve stems. Used almost 2/3 of a tube. I didnt put any on the camshaft.

Cam timing is a-ok (I had lock ties holding it together) and i did ip timing check after I put the motor back together:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/284464-there-way-sure-my-timing-chain-didnt-skip-tooth.html

If you put new rings on and honed the cylinders you may want to consider a heavy loading on the engine for a break-in period.


as soon as the engine has oiled up and seems smooth, run it as hard as you can up a hill, full load or the best you can throw at it.

this procedure best sets the rings while there is still some bite left on the cylinder walls.

Once you get it going, as jt suggests, you will need to give it a number of accelerations or up hill runs to bed the rings. Initial run needs to be light though to let the new bearings bed without grabbing.
Hope that make sense.

Greeeaaat... Went to close and cleanup for the night... the hood WON'T CLOSE. The motor sits too high, the hood hits the valve cover... now what??:mad:

I know it'll be blasphemy. cut the hood make a scoop (I'm kidding) any way to shorten the motor mounts?

is it possible to reverse the arms (L and R) and still have the engine sit on the mounts?

Pic please !! are your new mounts much different to the old ones?
What part of the hood is on the motor?
There must be something out of place.
You dont have spacers under the mounts?
You dont still have a jack under the motor?

yup. you gotta post some pics of the engine in the bay, and let us critique it. somtin is not where it's supposed to be...

Without pictures I can only guess - but - have you by any chance got the rear (gearbox) engine mount positioned correctly? Are you popping a wheely?

The front part of the valve cover is what's hitting the hood. It's quite a bit, too, maybe 3 or 4 inches too high

By looking down where the mounts are, everything is centered; the only thing that looked odd this morning is the pass. side trans cooler line rests uncomfortably on a bracket where the motor mount is... I will gently bend it out of the way and see what happens... hard to imagine something as flimsy as the trans cooler line holding the whole motor up though

Definitely will post pics when I get home tonight.

Again without any pics, it's hard to determine this issue. But to guess possible a cause, I would check to make sure the engine shocks are not mounted incorrectly or not frozen if reused, and make sure the trans mount is correctly positioned to make sure it is not putting an upward angle to the engine alignment.



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I took the engine shock out before installing the motor. I didn't feel like I was going to have enough control with the cherrypicker to put the engine shock end exactly where it was supposed to go and it would've gotten bent. I will install it later.

If you have new engine mounts, the trans mount is correctly positioned and all moving accessories are clear to move, you might have to start and run the engine to get the new engine mounts to settle down.




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