W123 "Annular" Style Axle Rebuild
 

I have a set of annular axles that I'm looking to rebuild. What are the appropriate boots for the this style (Dorman, Altrom, etc...)? I assume they differ from homokinetic axle boots. I only need the boots, I wont be disassembling the metal can on the outer CV joint. Finally are there any procedures for pressing out the inner CV joint. The W123 FSM only has procedures for homokinetic axles.

any updates on this project?
Bob K
240D

I would use the neoprene universal boots. About $10 each I think.

The Annular Axles can be re-booted in the same manner as the Homokinetic Axles (Cans on both ends) by stretching a Flexx or Dorman Boot over the "Can on the Axle. There is several write ups in the DIY Repair Link section on that.

However, I cannot remember who (funola ?) said that on the Annular end (the circular part with the Blolts going through it) on the Annular Axles can be taken apart and there is something in there that can be removed to slide the Boots on from that end.

What is not clear is if that "something" needs to be pressed off with a Hydraulic Press or not. I have seen no write up or pics of this on the Annular Axles.

So with the annular axle (later) you can get the boots on easy plus you dont have to open up the diff?

I have not read specific info on that.

In fact with the exception of the Made in China Annular Annular Axles some Members have installed; most Members seem to have the Homokinetic axles.

One of the Members claimed he chaned the 2 Boots on his Homokinetic Axles using one of the Plastic Cone type Tools (Dorman) to stretch the Boot over and leaving the Axle attached to the Differential.
He freeded the Axle from the Rear Wheel Hub and pushed it to one side to do it.
I assume he used Grease in the CV Joints but do not remember.

I have never Changed any Boots before but did change Axles. With the exception of removing the Differential Fill Plug what was needed to remove and install the Axles in the Differential was not hard an very straight forward.
The difficulty I had was getting the Axle Collasped enough and moving the parts around enough to go back into the Rear Hub Splined Hole. That problem might still be there with the Annular Axles.

The difficulty I had was getting the Axle Collasped enough and moving the parts around enough to go back into the Rear Hub Splined Hole. That problem might still be there with the Annular Axles. (quote)


No, the Annular axles are quit a bit easier to R&R. remove the 6 bolts on the Diff end.
Remove the bolt in the Hub.
Push towards the hub, drop down, and slide it out.

I really don`t see any difficulty replacing the boots compared to the Homokenetic.

Charlie

I've not had the pleasure of doing an axle yet:P but need to check my parts cars to see if any have annulars, they would then have bolts around the outside of the inner connection to the differential it sounds like.

bmwpowere36m3, good luck and keep us posted.

For someone reading through this, wondering what are these guys talking about? Annualr, Homokenitic :confused:

This is out of the DIY links. The old axles Dave is replacing are the Homokenetic axles.
The new axles in the last couple pictures are the Annular axles. notice the 6 bolts next to the Differential. the Homo axles don`t have these.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

Charlie

Both my euro 85s have the Homokenetic axles:mad:

Looks like the annulars on mine.

On your Euro 84, yes?, So the bolts around the inner flange are visible? I looked at my 77 parts car, (which is a low millage car) and it has annulars (bolts visible) but my 85 Euros, no.

No, I just checked, no bolt circle at the punkin. Scratching my head and sorting it out this weekend.

Humm, I have never done an axle so have no first hand experience but I thought bolts are visible on the inboard flange of an "annular" shaft. Good luck on the upcoming job.

Does anyone know by experience if ounce you remove the one end of the Annular (with Bolts) Axle you can slide the Stock type Boots (Not the Flexx or Dorman) Boots over what that end of the Axel.
Or, do you still need to use the Flexx or Dorman type boots but not the ATF or Cone to stretch them over the end?