Nube inquiry: looking for some advice on a 300TD wagon

[earnyerturn]

Howdy Benz enthusiasts/fountains of knowledge,

I have long been wanting to locate a beast of transportational burden to sway to the ways of biofuel for my rhambling ways. Recently I found a potential suitor, but am a bit naive in the world of vehicles that are slightly older than I. I was hoping to share my findings and get some feedback from you folks. (e.g. what the price of the rig should be, what type of bank I can expect to throw into it, if it sounds feasible, or if I should RUN from this car).

Here's the scoop:
1982 Mercedes 300TD Wagon
190.5K
5 cyl inline
Automatic tranny (I think they all are in this year w/ the TD correct?)
Glowplugs-good
Fuel injectors - might need some love
Ball Joint
Bushing - all these need some love
Brakes
Alternator - good
Starter- good
Tailgate strut - needs love
Seals in engine - probably need some love
Electronics (some) - seem to have shorted out
Manual Moon Roof
Power doors/windows
AM/FM Cassette

As I am beginning to learn each of these vintage of vehicles seems to have a story and this one is certainly no different. Through my test drive and session with the current owner I have the brief following:

Vehicle is from East Coast, where somewhere after being driven about sat in an apple orchard for 5 years. Current owner acquired it from orchard, fixed it as needed drove it about on East Coast and then back across country to Midwest. Drove it some in midwest and now it hangs out in Duluth Minnesota. Heat does not work and was driven through a winter or two w/ current owner wearing all his winter gear on commute to Isabella MN (think WICKED COLD). Vehicle does not like winter too much. LOVES block heater. DOES NOT LIKE blockheater when stored outside. LOVES block heater when stored in garage. Vehicle has been hanging out in various garages over the previous year in Duluth Minnesota, not being driven more than a few blocks @ a time during test drives until I took it out for a 45 min cruise through city and back roads (highway around Duluth) last week.

Here's what that entailed:
Initially, pretty stoked about vehicle.

Upon walk around inspection there were small amounts of body rust on the car. The rear end seems to sag (is this because the suspension is some vacuum thing?) and there happened to be a few areas of rust on the frame. (I did not get it up on a hoist, nor was I able to get under it fully due to the low clearance in the garage/ street). The underside of the engine was oily, and there were spots of oil on the floor of the garage where it'd been hanging out, not excessive, but noticable. Under the front right wheel well there are a few small bits of light showing through, e.g. rusted through fender. When compressing the shocks the right front makes a funny noise, kind of like a knock.

We had to jump the car (probably since its been sitting for a 8 months since last test drive? Started fine after that. Engine seemed to idle a bit harsh, then settled down. Puffed some white smoke for a while - making me think all the fuel isn't burning properly (e.g. fuel injector - this thought was confirmed by owner, as his mechanic friend had a look @ vehicle not so long ago and told him that was probably the case - not sure which one though)

Driving though town was a bit rough at first, then got smoother on the highway and back into town. I have never owned an automatic transmission, but this car seemed to wind up (no wine or anything) and then LUNK -shifting into the next gear. IT was a solid shift, didn't seem to struggle or slip in that regard. The steering seemed a little 'floaty' and I don't know if that is on account of the shock/ball joint issue on the right side. Part of me is thinking its the ball joint not the shock, because of the steering and when we drove over bumps it definitely made a 'knocking noise'. Brakes definitely need to be loved upon (I think its just the pads, but we were probably rolling about 80% or less on those)

Once on the highway the engine was really smooth, I wouldn't be passing logging trucks in northern wisco, but it held its own and held it well. Fun vehicle to drive.

I just wanted to get some feedback from you folks and see if this vehicle could be a solid runner w/ a little love. (And to find out how much that love will cost - ballpark) I can be a fairly handy person w/ the right space and local knowledge base and this era of vehicle seem to have a simple enough engine layout; it's just all the other stuff, electrical, vacuum etc that I might have to scratch the noggin a bit on.

As it stands the owner is asking $1250 for the vehicle. Which is a bit more than I have, especially considering I was thinking I'd have to stick a grand into it to get it where I'd like it to be. I was hoping some folks could ad their .02 about this potential project and I'd do what I can from there.

Thanks again for taking the time to read this and I look forward to hearing back from the forum folks.

Cheers
Brian

[vstech]

sounds like a strong 500.00 parts car.
needs glow plugs, and a timing chain or an offset key for the chain. rust is a killer on these cars. I'll never buy a rust ridden car for anything but parts.
the rear sag could be due to manythings connected to the hydrolic suspension. could be 25.00, could be 1000.00
when you say initally rough do you mean ride, or shifting?
high winding then thunk could be vacuum, could be a stuck downshift button under the accelerator pedal.
it's better to find a rust free rough running example than it is to fix up a rusted out one...

[Stevo]

How much it would cost to fix up?...The short answer. That depends on how much you can do yourself. My advice would be to spend more money and buy a TD thats been well taken care of. The items on your list would probably only be the "tip of the iceberg" and they are not cheap to fix. If you just want a "project car" and have lots of money this will keep you busy. In the long run you will spend more money and grief on this car (and still have a rusty car) "fixing it up" than you would if you just payed for a good one. Just my take on it tho, but Ive "fixed up" a few

[elchivito]

I was shopping as a noob about a year ago and picking brains here too....a real smart thing to do. My advice:

-look at lots of them. lots. don't buy the first one you find if it has any issues
-I'm in AZ, cars don't rust here, but MBZ's do. And rust never sleeps. There is always more than there appears to be.
-lowball your price..everybody thinks their old benz's value has gone thru the roof because they're "perfect for a greasecar conversion"
-find a good indy and have a pre-purchase inspection. It's worth the hundred or so you'll pay many times over.

[barry123400]

Good sign that you are asking on this site. Some of these cars have had so many things just let go they are basically just restoration projects now.

Do you have the tools and knowledge to deal with them? Workplace etc and especially the time and will and money to do it. If not do not buy it.

Locating a pretty good one is time consuming and requires a real search. Time and money well spent in my opinion. Other than that the car could be viewed as a learning experience I suppose.

[Benzoid123]

Depends on what you want to buy the car for I guess. If you're looking for a project car to work on yourself, then maybe this is the one. If you're looking for a daily driver you don't have much money to invest in, I'd run away. My wagon was originally purchased for $100. It was pretty rough. Between my friend owning it then selling it to me, together we have invested a good $4000 into it I bet. The self-leveling suspension is cool but expensive to fix. I don't know man, this car you found sounds like it needs a lot. If it's leaking a lot of oil, I question how often it ran while low on oil. Too questionable for me.

[Diesel911]

In the below links are some of the things Members have been doing to their cars and some of the areas that need work. If you cannot do or unable to learn to do most of the jobs you most likely will not be able to afford the Car you want.

As an example to replace a Timing Chain there is about $260 special tool; the Timing Chain itself is about $150 and the Timing Chain Tensioner Rail is around another $50.

If the Rubber parts have not been replaced before:
Rear Axle CV Joint Boots
The Front Suspension is mounted on rubber parts- see replacing the Lower Control Arm Bushings and Upper Control Arms in the DIY Links.
Replacing the Lower Control Arm Bushings requires that you Make, Rent or purchase a $189 spring compressor for the Front Springs. The typical Spring Compressors sold in the Auto Part Stores for workingon Struts are not safe. I know because I tried it and twisted up my Spring Compressors. I ended up making a spring compressor.

Oil Cooler Hoses- Read what to do if the Oil Cooler Nipple Strips when you Remve the Hose (this happened to me).
No U-Joints; it has rubber FLex Discs
Motor and Transmission Mount replacement
And so on....
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

[layback40]

Welcome to the forum!!
The comments you are getting may appear a little negative but its just a group of guys who have become wise by experience.
There is a cheap wagon club thread on here, may be worth having a look at it to judge the car against others.
The time in the orchard has probably started much of the rust & that would be a reason to run from it. If you are good at body repairs, then you would be able to make a proper assessment.
Good wagons are hard to find.

Good Luck in your search !!!!