Spring Compresser
 

Has anyone had any experience with the spring compresser available at Harbor Freight? Is it heavy duty enough? It says its "industrial grade"

http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

I have no experience with this particular compressor, however, the general concensus on HF tools is that you should never really hedge your bets on them when it comes to safety. The label "industrial grade" means nothing at all - seriously.

More to the point, I don't know that this compressor would work for you. The ad indicates it is for MacPherson struts and I don't think your '84 300D has MacPherson struts. So, the question is, can this compressor compress your springs enough to remove them - and then hold them safely. I'm not so sure about either of those and this is not a time to experiment. You can rent the proper tool here through the tool rental program if nothing else.

Yes
 

It works on most STRUTS...

Durability for that model = less than 50 springs.

IMO: it is OK for hobby but not a commercial shop..





Have a great day

FYI
 

This tool will NOT work on an 1984 300D..

One of our members did this:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/134474-homemade-spring-compressor-post987680.html
From; Home Made Special Tools, This is where members can share how they made special tools
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/239902-home-made-special-tools-where-members-can-share-how-they-made-special-tools.html

The 2 in the pics below are ones I made.


The first one can only be used on the front Springs and pulls the Spring up into the Spring Perch. However the Threaded Rod is long enough that the Spring can be remove but it takes a awful lot of cranking. Also I had to use a Flare Nut Crows Foot on a 1/2 inch Extension to turn the nut for compression as there is no room to get a normal Wrench above the Spring Perch area and have enough leverage to compressor the Spring.

The other one is an enlarged version of the strut type Spring Compressors only with 1 inch threaded rod. The idea here was to make something that could be used on other Vehicles besides my 123.

Both work but with either you get a lot of exercise turning them.

Thanks guys - great advice. I know springs are no joke, and I'm going to have to put some new bushings in the lower control arms at some point. I want to make sure I don't get killed while doing it. I just put in some new lower ball joints, and idler arm, center link, steering damper, upper control arms, and both tie rods. During the job I noticed that the lower control arms were probably going to be a lot harder, even though the ball joints were a huge pain in the a**. Now I've got to go get an alignment, and hopefully I'll be good for awhile. I don't like to leave jobs incomplete, so those lower control arms are going to have to come off at some point. :mad:

littlerobot,
Smart thoughts. There is a lot of energy in those springs. If the compressor fails, they wont say excuse me as they hit you in the head at the speed of sound. They are probably more dangerous than a car sliding off a jack stand.

If you are not having bad tire wear right now I would change the Lower Control Arm Bushings before you get the Alinement.
With out any warning my LCA Bushings went bad in the course of 3 days I had bad inner Tire wear.
If previous to those 3 days I had; hand an alinement done it would have been a waste.

I very carefully take the compressed spring and place it outside the garage door and around the corner. The sight of a tall front Mercedes spring pancaked like that freaks me out:eek: If it goes I want it to do it outside the garage and not in lol

Yep MB springs are very long and powerful on a W123. If you can hire a compressor from a member on this forum - otherwise buy an internal one for the rear springs at least. If you use an internal one on the front springs you may have to file out the holes in the chassis to get it to fit through into the spring. This won't be the case if you spend the best part of 1000 USD on a real one. The knock off ones cost about 25% of that value - but then you'll need to adjust your chassis a bit.

Normal external spring compressors generally are not long enough to safely remove the front springs on a W123. Don't listen to people who will say just undo the suspension and let the spring go. That may work on some more modern cars but you will probably (almost definitely) hurt something or yourself with a W123

I used a dremel to grind out the holes a bit... this was after I just about got the compressor stuck on one side. My compressor was bought new off ebay and works great. Made very well. The best part is the guy lived about 4 miles from me and let me pick it up.

he had a large storage room in the back of his basement that was FULL of suspension tools. All by the same manufacture. He went to a stack of 15 of these compressors and grabbed me one. He showed it to me and said they were very nice setups. He house was for sale and is since left the state. Wish I could have bought the business from him.

As ARMY said, you will have to file/grind the opening where the compressor shaft drops into the hole. as you look into the hole, it is the inner piece of sheet metal that needs filed. I then POR`ed the exposed metal.

Use the MB Spring Compressor designed for the MB springs. these springs are not something to experiment on.

rent, borrow or buy one. I lucked out, and found one on craigs List for $75, brand new in the red blow molded case like the one`s sold on E-Bay :D. they are usually in the $200 range.

Charlie

I would only trust my life and limb with the official tool design:

http://www.zdmakrepairtools.com/wbst...ing-tool-2.jpg

They can be spendy, but aftermarket versions are certainly cheaper than the official MB item. You can buy the set, use it, and then rent it out on this forum. :D

thats what I got

I bought a spring compressor like that from el paso tools on ebay. Cost about $225. I have taken spring off my 140 without any trouble.