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  #1  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:16 PM
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Location: Hamilton Ontario Canada
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guide rod bushing R&R advice please

'82 300sd

I'm going to do my guide rod bushings this weekend. Full kit for both sides in hand. About how long do they take assuming all comes apart? I already soaked everything down with a very good penetrating oil to help free everything up. I'm doing them at my work (truck shop) with access to all but a hoist. (torches, welder, press, my tool box, air, metal stock etc)

Any advice would be helpfull

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:22 PM
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Up through the hawespipe.
 
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I had never done them before.. it took me a few hours cause i had to go buy a come a long to pull the wheel forward. then rounded out a hex head and had to go to a friends shop who had better tools for something like that. if i hadn't had those problems, maybe 2 hours total.
it was worth it as i had constant 'clunking" on the right side.
r
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:00 PM
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Do you have the mount kit only or also the bushings for the attachment of the guide rod to the LCA? The forward bushings require removing the spring perch which requires removing the spring. Oddly, this makes it easier to remove the guide rod mount by getting the guide rod out of the way. If you keep the guide rod attached to the LCA, you have the tedious task of unscrewing the mount from the rod which requires a near infinite 15* turns of a wrench, and the generally unfun task of pulling the LCA forward as the guide rod lengthens from unscrewing the mount. Some folks use a come-along to pull the LCA forward, more adventurous folks set a scissors jack between the wheel and the wheelwell. Note that there isn't a park brake for the front wheels.

Sixto
87 300D
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Old 08-12-2011, 10:28 PM
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Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but, I just removed the mount from the frame and unscrewed the end of the guide rod. With the car on jack stands and the tire removed it takes maybe a half hour the first side and 20 minutes the second. Your mileage may vary.

This assumes that the end of the rod that stays attached to the lower control arm is good.
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  #5  
Old 08-12-2011, 10:37 PM
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I used Greg's method as well and had no problems. I will add a quick note....before pulling the entire bearing carrier, break loose the hex cap screws on the back side which hold the guide rod bushings. Trust me it is much easier with the mount still anchored to the vehicle.
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2011, 10:41 PM
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Up through the hawespipe.
 
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Location: Valencia, NM
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yeah, that's the way I did it. unscrewed them.
good advice on loosening the hex bolts first... they were a challenge with it off the car.
r
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2011, 10:41 PM
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I have never done it myself but Greg's post basically describes how my friend did it at his shop. He had expected it to be much more difficult.

I have seen instructions indicating you have to compress the spring, but for sure he didn't (as he doesn't own the appropriate compressor tool).
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Old 08-13-2011, 12:14 AM
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It won't be the first time I realize I'm an idiot but when I released the bracket, there wasn't room to spin it off the guide rod. You're saying you can tip the guide rod downwards enough? That seems like a loose attachment on the LCA. But if all of you have done it, do it that way.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2011, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
It won't be the first time I realize I'm an idiot but when I released the bracket, there wasn't room to spin it off the guide rod. You're saying you can tip the guide rod downwards enough? That seems like a loose attachment on the LCA. But if all of you have done it, do it that way.

Sixto
87 300D

I was fortunate to remove the spring and remove the guide rod bushing and bolt from the LCA, so I had none of the above issues.

However, it appears that the decision comes down to two possibilities:

1) Leave the carrier on the vehicle and deform the hell out of the LCA bushing by forcing the LCA way too far forward to allow the rod to unthread from the guide rod bushing.

2) Drop the carrier from the body (two cap screws) and allow the carrier to move rearward as you unthread the rod from the guide rod bushing.


It's agreed that you'll probably bend the guide rod if you attempted to rotate the carrier while the guide rod bushing is still attached to the carrier.


The additional benefit of removing the carrier allows replacement of the two large rubber bushings in the carrier which probably are in less than desirable condition after 25 years. These are a bit stubborn to install and definitely need an arbor press and some lubrication persuasion.

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