606 EGR delete, but code won't clear
 

I just got a 99 E300, Amazing car!!, but the PO removed the EGR and I don't have the part to reattach it. So I thought the easy solution would be to build the circuit outlined

here
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/168261-got-time-egr-bypass-606-turbo.html

and here
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/w210-om606-962-egr-delete-t-1871.html

(thank you KarTek) and be done with the limp mod. but for some reason the code is not clearing. The car has been started and run to operating temps half a dozen times, but still not luck. I'm going to try disconnecting the battery in a second to see if that helps.
I know the circuit is right, is their something I'm missing?

What's crazy is that even on limp mode that car pulls like a freight train, till it realizes it's going fast and dials down the fun:(

Disconnecting the battery won't help. Did you leave the EGR transducer plugged in? You have to leave the electrical hooked up and cap the vacuum port that goes to the "mixing valve" (EGR)

I can't tell if the wiring is still attached. I don't see any hanging clips, but EGR on the exhaust side is literally not there, where is the transducer plug?
Is the port to the "mixed air" under the intake manifold? if so I can see a port that points to around 4 o'clock with nothing attached, I will throuw a cap over it? Let's see

OK, if you did the circuit I posted in those 2 threads, you also need to do the following things:

1. Find the mixing chamber by looking from the driver's side of the car, under the intake manifold where the pipe enters the larger intake plenum. There should (or used to) be a 12" vacuum hose leading from a connection on the chamber to the EGR transducer on the driver's side fender well.

2. If the hose is there, remove it and cap the port on the transducer.

3. Make sure the wiring harness is still plugged into the bottom of the transducer.

Ah Ha, I did see a vacuum hose running from under the intake. It did run to a circuit on the driver side fender wall, but the wires did not match the green/gray and yellow/white of the ECU wire harness so I figure it was not related(or it was the map sensor). Tomorrow I'll take off the manifold and trace everything back.

Be careful, don't mistake the MAP sensor for the EGR transducer. Both have vacuum hoses going to the same area. The EGR vacuum hose goes to the silver diaphram on the front side of the mixing chamber.

Ok, the front side, it has a larger diameter vacuum hose than the one to the back side that goes to the map sensor? disconnecting the map sensor would cause what? I'll look for a loose sensor, cause it must be disconnected

so here is where I am, looks like the vacuum port was caped and the transducer is still connected. Also looks like I need a real EGR blocking plate. not sure what to do next, it's still saying service now and power drops off all over the place.

Looks like the transducer is capped properly. Have you tried pulling the codes, either yourself of getting Autozone/Advance to pull them for you? The only other thing I can think of is that the stripe on the diode is facing the wrong direction. That will certainly cause the circuit to fail.

One question out of curiosity. Why is your MAP sensor floating around by the ABS? It should be mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead back opposite the brake booster. :confused:

I did try pulling codes with the scanner at checkers auto parts and it didn't read any, though the egr light was flashing. I wasn't getting a CEL pior, the screen just says "service now". That was untill yesterday, now I'm not getting any boost and CEL came on, so I'll check that today. Thinking about buying an Autoenginuity scanner to really know whats going on in there.
I'm positive the circuit is in correctly, I measured it's condinnuity on the bench and it read 1250ohms in one direction and nothing the other(point of the diode I guess) and when mounted it reads the same.
It occured to me this morning it may not be the EGR at all(no code), the PO ran WVO through the car for a few thousand miles and I'm thinking the fuel filters might be completely gummed up, and that's why power drops off so sharply at high revs. A decent scan gauge would help, at least to clear the "service now"

WVO in a OM606?!? What were they thinking? Our 606 doesn't like anything but Diesel or BioDiesel. Just change the filters and run a purge to clean out the system ASAP. If they were running WVO through the fuel tank, look into SlimeX for tank treatment and keep a couple of extra fuel filters to cycle that crap out.

WVO is for tractors and pre-1990s cars. Not for newer diesel engines.

Don't waste your money on the A-E. I plopped down the full $500 for the MB enhanced package and this car is not new enough to take advantage of it's abilities. A regular old OBDII scanner will serve you well.

I also have a Scangage II and it works very well in this car.

Thanks for the heads up KarTek, I know I'm high-jacking my own thread now, does the A-E do any more than the scangauge II, about the same, or less. They cost about the same(on FleaBay) and I like the date logging possible with a laptop. High-jack over
Through my incompetence I think I figured something out.
Turns out I lost all boost cause I hooked the map vacuum line up to the mounting screw and not the port, it was dark and I'm a moron. It threw a genuine CEL P0241(it was this morning) I checked it at a FLAPs and cleared it. With the MAP connected correctly I have boost again.
This mistake leads me to believe I am chasing my tail. If the EGR was the source of my problems it too would throw a CEL code I can check with an OBD2 and clear. But it does not, so the circuit must be doing it's job.
The "service due now" is probably the oil sensor and will go away after an oil change.
I'm going to start on the New Owner Maintenance routine and hope that cures the "service" message and the loss of power. Now that I'm thinking about it, it could totally be fuel starvation and nothing more.
The WVO is a whole other thread, which I may start as I uncover the wrongs of the previous owner.

If you've got the owner's manual it includes a procedure to reset the counter and clear the "service now" message. Won't hurt to change fuel filters, of course, but a few thousand miles WVO likely didn't cause any problems - especially with the EGR deleted. Sounds like you've already resolved the low power/lack of boost problems anyway. If you've still got the manifold off and the EGR pipe is gone/circuit is tricked you might want to hollow out the EGR housing between the charge air pipe and the manifold. We removed the valve, drilled out the housing and welded the holes shut/flush. Both cars seem to accelerate faster now that the restrictions are removed.

Auto-E basic, without the MB enhanced package will do basic OBDII stuff with data logging, etc on the laptop but you can't access the driveline monitoring and other advanced functions on these cars.

Sounds like your making progress! :D

Oh, and if you reset the service interval counter/timer, make sure you do it with the driver's door shut. For some reason it's required...