Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:35 AM
Just a User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Battery Light

The battery light on a 1982 300D is acting funny. I noticed it at first last night when I shut down the car and with no key in the ignition, the battery light was on. I then started the car and I smelled some thing burning, couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from and eventually the smell went away. Now the battery light does not come on when the engine is shut down. When the car is idling, the battery light is not on. But when driving and the rpm goes up, the light comes on.

Alternator is a fairly new rebuilt with 30,000 miles. I swapped out the voltage regulator with a known good unit and still the same light activity. I even disconnected the negative battery cable while the engine is running to see if the head lights would be still on, and they are. It appears the alternator is charging. Any thoughts?



.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-14-2011, 02:31 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 56,431
Disconnecting any of the Battery Cables while the Engine is going can harm the Alternator.

Since when it works normal the Battery Charging light is connected to the Alternator through the Ignition Switch it could be an indication that the Ignition Switch is on the way out.
Or, the Lock Tumbler and the Mecanism in between that turn the Ignition Switch are some how fouled/worn up and not allowing the Ignition Switch to return to the proper positions.

I suppose it is possible for there to be cracks in the wire insulation in the under the Dash Wiring that could ground the circuit.

If you remove the Alternator Connector there is 3 slots. The Single Small Slot (Blue Wire) goes to the Battery Charging Lignt and when it works normal there is no Voltage there until you turn the Key on.
The other 2 larger Slots (2 Red Wires) always have Battery Voltage.

It might be handy to know what sort of voltage you are getting when it is charging.

The Voltage Rebulator controls the Field Circuit by grounding. If your where your Battery Cable bolts to the Chassis Chassis Ground or Engine to Chassis Ground is not connected well or the Alternator Connector is corroded I would expect the Alternator all sorts of abnormal stuff.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-14-2011, 11:19 AM
Just a User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Thank you for the response.

How do you test the ignition lock?

I'll check the ground and power connections for corrosion, and I'll have to see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator.

Thank you again.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-14-2011, 11:30 AM
TX76513's Avatar
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Brandon, Mississippi
Posts: 5,209
The resistor pack in the alternator is bad (one diode anyways). Its allowing current to flow backwards from the battery. Cheapest route to repair is an alternator shop or DIY if you have cracked one open before.
__________________
BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-14-2011, 12:39 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 56,431
If you remove the Alternator and take the Alternator for a free test and it test OK it would have to be an issue with something in the Circuit.
I know that the type of test done at AutoZone would tell you if it was Charging OK but I do not know if a Bad Diode would show up.

Places that have an Alternator Tester that has a screen that shows the Wave Form of charging Voltage/Current would give more information.

Changingl the Ignition Switch is a lot of work and at least one person has found that after changing the Ignition Switch that it was actually something in the Steering Wheel Lock that turns the Ignition Switch causing the problem; not the Ignition Switch itself.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:37 PM
lutzTD's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lutz, Florida (N of Tampa)
Posts: 2,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If you remove the Alternator and take the Alternator for a free test and it test OK it would have to be an issue with something in the Circuit.
I know that the type of test done at AutoZone would tell you if it was Charging OK but I do not know if a Bad Diode would show up.

Places that have an Alternator Tester that has a screen that shows the Wave Form of charging Voltage/Current would give more information.

Changingl the Ignition Switch is a lot of work and at least one person has found that after changing the Ignition Switch that it was actually something in the Steering Wheel Lock that turns the Ignition Switch causing the problem; not the Ignition Switch itself.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

they can test the alternator without removing it if you can get the car there, saves a lot of cursing getting that darn bracket loose if you dont have to
__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-14-2011, 05:11 PM
Just a User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
I'll go to my local parts place to see if they can do an alternator test in the car. It's a shame because the rebuilt alternator is only a few years old.

Thanks for the input.


.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-14-2011, 06:55 PM
sjh sjh is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 580
Those are classic signs that your alternator needs help.

I'm surprised to hear (but I have no reason to disagree) that running the car without a battery connection is damaging to the alternator.

PS - When this same problem happened with me the smell you describe was the electrical components burning up in the alternator.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-14-2011, 07:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Orillia, Ontario
Posts: 217
As far as I know the only way to check the diodes with the car running is with an oscilloscope. Or an mutlimeter on each diode(with the alternator dismantled)
__________________
I choose to be happy, even when the Mercedes is being awkward, lol
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page