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#1
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Oil pump chain tensioner replacement 1983 300SD
I had a chattering noise coming from the front of my 83 300SD motor.
(now in the 81SD) I isolated the noise to the timing pointer. Bending it slightly upwards didn't help. I then pulled the lower oil pan. There I found the retainer clip had fallen off of the oil chain tensioner. This caused it to walk forwards rubbing on the front case causing slack in the chain. The noise I was hearing. I searched the forum on replacement and didn't come up with much. Any pointers on what to do next? the tensioner doesn't want to go back far enough to get the clip back on. Plus with the wear on the clip it seems as if the tensioner pushes hard against it. Is this normal? Anyone else have this problem before? Any Idea on a possible cause? Any help is greatly appreciated. I have pics but wife took the camera. I'll post them tonight.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#2
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A good job trouble shooting.
I have not read any info in the Forums on 617 Engines having a problem in that area. It may be the Oil Pump has to come off or at lest be loosened and shifted around some.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 01-23-2011 at 12:00 PM. |
#3
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Quote:
It took a while but it finally showed itself. Learning something new on these cars everyday. Thanks to this great forum we have! Thanks for the drawing I had nothing to reference with. I was thinking there was a washer between the #113 clip and the tensioner # 101 I found wear on the clip from the tensioner. Eventually the clip wears and pops off. theres very little surface area on it. This lets the tensioner walk forwards releasing the spring. The spring coils close down on both side of the bushing not allowing the tensioner to return to its normal position. Then comes the problem of how to get it back far enough to reinstall a new clip. Its like trying to build a ship in a bottle very tight clearances. I guess I could just drop the upper portion of the oil pan ![]() ![]() Here's some pictures:
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#4
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The good news is that it looks like the tight Clearance is what kept it from coming off.
The bad news is that it looks like you need 3 small Hands to do the job.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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Perhaps a picture showing it from a little further away will help.
I dont think you can very successfully pull the upper pan with the engine in the car. I dont know if you can pull the oil pump without first pulling the motor. It does not look very favorable to get that stuff all back where it belongs with the oil pump installed in the engine. I imagine someone else has had this happen though so they will chime in.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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Quote:
![]() The wife and I just put the engine in about 10 months ago. The memories are still fresh. We where hoping it would stay there for a while as well. After reading about pulling the upper oil pan in the car I think pulling the engine seems easier. At least easier on a dirt and gravel driveway. 911 your right they where thinking when they designed them. No way to fall out this probably prevented catastrophic failure. It's been running like this for a while looking at the pattern on the tensioner. It probably would keep on running but just the thought.... I like sleeping at night. I ran out of time yesterday so I will probably try again tomorrow. Maybe the clearance will come in handy as far as prying goes. The clip is another story. I was figuring a E-Clip might work. I looked at a 603 manual and that's what they use. This would also provide more surface area against the tensioner. I'll post on the outcome. I will also try and post some better pics. Further away and the tensioner was hard to make out. At least the spring portion of it. Thanks for the replies.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#7
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I took this picture further back.
The camera focuses in on the surroundings but it gives a better idea on location. The tensioner is located in the hole next to the arrow. For those who don't know the chain and gear in this picture are on the oil pump and are located in the lower pan. The part that usually hits the curb. ![]()
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#8
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You might PM Hunter and ask how he would get the Clip back on and if it turns out the Oil Pump has to be moved if the Engine really needs to be pulled.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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I do not know if it is a good idea to replace a Snap Ring With an E-clip (#44 in the pic). After all the Snap Ring lasted a long time.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Quote:
That is a snap ring. The one that fell off resembled a snap ring but it seemed kind of flimsy . It had one hole in the center of both ends rather than a hole per end. The E-clip seemed like the easy way out just push it on with some long needle nose and be done with it. but the thought keeps crossing my mind as you stated how long will it last. Been busy with work lately so this got put on the back burner. I might be able to get at it towards the end of the week I'll keep on posting. I appreciate the help. I'll post a picture of the clip. It might not be the right one to begin with.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#11
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From the first set of pictures it almost looks like to me that the spring tensioner is not properly positioned.
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Jim |
#12
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Quote:
to shift forwards. The tensioner binds against the front of the top oil pan. This throws slack in the oil chain making an inconsistent chattering noise at idle. the noise is greatest right at the tack pickup and timing pointer when using a stethoscope. I'm still trying to get it back in position. it moves but not far enough to expose the snap ring groove. When and if I do get it then comes the fun of trying to reinstall a new snap ring.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#13
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I imagine moving it back is problematic because a wear groove has been established from it being out of position.
If you can get tension off the chain perhaps you can move it back. I can imagine a tool which you could install the snap ring with consisting of something like a screwdriver which you could expand the snap ring and insert into the little gap and use the spring tension to hold it there, then install it carefully and just pull the screwdriver like device out. I imagine taking an inexpensiver screwdriver or one that the end is shot on anyway and shaping it so that it has little grooves on each side to hold the ends of the snap ring on it. and grindiing it down so it fits up into the hole.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#14
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With any of the Thread Locker fluid it does not take too much heat when it comes time to remove something to melt it. So, later removal should not be an issue.
The Red Loctite becomes a removal issue because you do not know a prior person has used it; so you don't know to heat it up before attempting to remove something.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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A question on the Red locktite, will a heat gun work? wouldn`t want to use a torch inside the engine. think my gun has a high setting of 1100deg.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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