As mentioned before check and see of the Sensor is working OK. On 2 gas Cars I owned the Temp Sensor Prob got covered with gunk and did not function right.

Pull the Thermostat and check that also.

Can a 10 year old Radiator be set to a Radiator Shop and cleaned or has the price for that service gone up to the point it is better to buy a new one?

Note: From what I have read the "Flush" sometimes reveals bad Freeze/Core Plugs or Heater Cores. Plan time for that just in case; if you do a Flush.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Many years ago, I had a brass/copper radiator for my '72 250, re-cored at a radiator-shop for about $130. At that time a new radiator, only availible from Mercedes, was about $500.
I've heard rumours of radiator shops that can repair the plastic/aluminum radiators, but there aren't any in my area I'm aware of.

I've seen brass/copper aftermarket radiators in a couple salvage-yard W123 240Ds. In fact I bought one as a spare for my 240D.

I'm already experiencing slight seepage from my TD's heater-core. I wouldn't try acid cleaner in any of my cooling systems.

Happy Motoring, Mark

__________________
DrDKW

Was out of town yesterday, but just took a quick look under the hood. The fins are dirty and somewhat buggered up. Also noticed that the brand was "CSF Europe", with a lifetime warranty sticker on it. Anyone ever heard of this brand? My biggest issue right now is time to do the job...

Anyone have a sense of how long this should take? I'm only what I would consider an average mechanic at best...

__________________
Mine: 1987 MB 420 SEL - 62K (Dec 2019)
Mine:1991 MB 350SDL - 244K (Aug 2011)- Totalled 9/14/2016
Mine:1981 MB 300SD - 326K mi (July 1997)-sold
Wife's: 2008 MB C300 Sport - 92K mi (April 2009)

http://www.csfimports.com/home.asp

I know this thread is a little old, but I recently formed an opinion of whether or not to go with the all-metal radiators.

In a word, do (i.e. go all metal). The stock ones have plastic tops and bottoms.. which means two more gaskets to get old, stiff, brittle and to have go and fail on you under pressure. Since the metal is crimped onto those end plastic caps, the design relies on the gaskets staying soft and pliable to hold pressure and they cannot be replaced.

I know the OE design works, and seems to be functioning OK in my car too, but heck, why would I ever want to include two nonmaintainable gaskets in the cooling system if I didn't have to?

__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

But where do you get them? Don't think the CPF imports radiators have the right overflow connections.

I've had multiple w123s and a 210 with original radiator over 200k and 30 yrs... Nbd.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)