Lessons from lock cylinder cleaning.

[kerry]

Since I have my ignition assembly out for replacement since the locking bolt broke, I thought I'd clean out my ignition key cylinder as I have seen recommended here and elsewhere. Prior to cleaning it, original main and valet keys and recently recut valet keys worked fine in it.

Flushed it repeatedly with WD-40 and subsequently with brake cleaner. Lots of dirt came out Results were interesting. Original main and valet keys only work sporadically in the lock now. Most of the time they wont turn at all, sometimes they get stuck in the cylinder. When they turn, you can feel the cylinder grinding. On the other hand, recently laser cut valet keys work flawlessly. No grinding, very smooth, always sliding in and out

Lesson: If you're having trouble with your keys, cleaning the lock and continuing to use the old keys could lead to serious trouble such as a stuck ignition cylinder.
On the other hand, getting a fresh cut copy of your key based on the original cut may solve your problems.
It also suggest to me that if you are having trouble with your ignition key not turning, it might be worth ordering a brand new key based on the VIN from MB before cutting out the lock.

This applies to the high security key lock cylinder on my 84 126. Don't know if it applies to older non-high security cylinders.

[funola]

Interesting. Was the laser cut key cut from a code at the dealer? I don't understand why the old keys would not go in smooth but the new key does. I think there is still debri in there that hasn't been totally cleaned out. After you cleaned it with brake clean, all the lube has been removed and the remaining "grit" causes a lot of binding. try turning the key and tumbler immersed in hot water + dish washing liquid which acts as a lubricant. I'll bet both the old keys and new key will be nice and smooth turning. The remaining grit , especially in the areas where the tiny springs rest on the wafers are difficult and slow to get out.

[kerry]

Key was cut at a locksmith with a machine that the locksmith said read the original MB parameters from the key. Machine was computerized and 'read' the key before cutting the new one.
Maybe there's still dirt in there. The grinding doesn't sound like dirt, it sounds as if the wafers/pin are not in the right place.

[2001ML270CDI]

Sounds like you now have no lube in there. Best get some graphite powder & puff it into the lock. It will be messy for a while. The key will leave gray graphite stains on everything.

[kerry]

I put it in hot water and detergent. The original key is turning now but the newly cut key is still turning FAR more smoothly.

[funola]

That's probably due to the old keys being worn and the new key is not.

[kerry]

Originally Posted by funola

That's probably due to the old keys being worn and the new key is not.

That's what makes me think that the common ignition lock problems may really be key problems. A new key from the dealer might allow the lock to turn when the old one doesn't.

[Diesel911]

Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank?
(I have a small Harbor Freight one for made to clean Jewelry.)

I remember hearing a conversation at the Locksmith Shop where the Locksmith said that people who have a whole bunch of Keys hanging from their Ignition Key are the ones who have trouble with the Tumblers; he was speaking in general not about Mercedes.

[compress ignite]

Thanks to DM.

#001 989 26 51 10

EDIT:

UrrrrGGKKKK ! NO Graphite !

[mgburg]

It's true with some automobiles that having extra weight hanging off the ignition key will cause issues with the key/keyway alignment.

With MB keys, the original is a MUCH harder metal than anything a normal locksmith stocks, so getting an original from the MB dealership is the proper way to go.

#1.) Bring your title to the parts counter (proves you own the vehicle)...
#2.) The VIN number...
#3.) $25.00-$35.00 per key to be duplicated...
#4.) Patience after you pay and wait for the key to be "cut" and sent to the dealership...for you to come and collect. (About a week or two)...

I've destroyed the "drug-store" grinders I got with both my cars...I'm running with the "original" (based on VIN and MB records). MUCH smoother operations than before.

Now...if only the little flappers on the doorhandle keyways had stayed intact...

[MBeige]

The driver door lock started "binding" when it started to rain. Sprayed it with white lithium grease spray inside the protective key hole flap and now the lock mechanism turns FREELY and easily. The key now also goes in smoothly, as opposed to before where it had some resistance going in (sometimes preventing me from turning because it wasn't all the way in but it "stopped" enough for me to think it's at the end of its range when it wasn't).

[euroamg]

Non factory issued keys are not good for your lock cylinders they wear out easily. Brass keys.. You need steel keys to work better. Also one more thing the locksmith cut keys are not as precise as the Factory issued ones..

[JHZR2]

Im in the opposite situation with my 82 currently (locks uncleaned). Just got a new dealer key, my original, which shows some wear goes in/out far smoother, while the new one catches/binds.

I have to wonder if the dirt inside makes up voids/gaps that lets the old key slide in, while the sharp edges on the new one then get caught because they want to move the tumblers to their correct position which the dirt prevents (or causes over-movement).

Remove the dirt, the old worn key cant cause the tumblers to move far enough... they are ever so slightly misaligned and thus cause the scraping. The cleaned tumbler with new key works as is normal.

[dcotejr]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Ultrasonic Cleaning Tank?
(I have a small Harbor Freight one for made to clean Jewelry.)

I remember hearing a conversation at the Locksmith Shop where the Locksmith said that people who have a whole bunch of Keys hanging from their Ignition Key are the ones who have trouble with the Tumblers; he was speaking in general not about Mercedes.

My first thought was ultrasonic cleaner...

[tbomachines]

Originally Posted by MBeige

The driver door lock started "binding" when it started to rain. Sprayed it with white lithium grease spray inside the protective key hole flap and now the lock mechanism turns FREELY and easily. The key now also goes in smoothly, as opposed to before where it had some resistance going in (sometimes preventing me from turning because it wasn't all the way in but it "stopped" enough for me to think it's at the end of its range when it wasn't).

Not a good idea, lithium grease or any other "liquid" lubricant (usually lithium grease is sort of spray-gel) is bound to collect dirt and dust over the years. Proper lock lubricant is graphite powder since it stays dry and will not gunk up. OP should throw a bit of graphite in there as well.