The Servo Gods Have Heard Your Prayers:
 

Nice, though it doesn't apply to my vehicle. My monovalve (in the '83) is a bit iffy. When it goes out I'll probably do the ball valve thing. Right now the problem is the blower. It only works occasionally after a hard right turn on a bumpy road. I really should fix that.

I'm getting dizzy...

my solution was to sell the car, and buy something else...

Nay though thou hast posteth the word of the servo gods, these gods dost continue to baffle the living shasbut out of thine humble servants who, having rebuilt thyne hideously complex system, now doth curse thou Mercedes engineers who putteth a servo to lieth next to a compression ignition motor that vibrateth said servo to death, for yay though the words be written on paper, thine servant still knoweth not his butt from a tree stump.

Here endeth the lesson. :devilish:

woe unto whosoever directly readeth the message of the servo gods. your eyes shall dry up and be as sack cloth, your ears shall ring unto the night.
all who cast their eyes unto the message of the servo gods shall have their mind rendered blank, and their mouth to be caused never again to speak.

Now I have a headache and a sharp pain in my groin...

I've printed out about 1000 pages of stuff and I'm putting it in binders. 4 binders. A yellow/black one, a yellow one, a purple one and a black one.

Does it matter which color binder you put the Vacuum system schematic in? I'm going to try it out with the yellow one.

As soon as I'm done I'm going to test the system and see if this fixed it...

I have a metal clipboard but I'm thinking about changing to wood and see if it helps.

Hey on my wagon, nothing worked until I installed the battery hold downs. Man those w123 hold-downs are pricey at the dealer, but they sure do make the defrost work purdy.

:bigcry:

I plan to reorient the car to a new point on the compass, over the weekend. I expect the servo will spring to life at that point and my suspension will immediately level out properly.

I cannot believe that I drove my w116 for eight years and all I ever had to do, to the cc system, was install a new pushbutton panel. Wow I had NO idea how good I had it....

metal or wood is fine, the servo gods accept sacrifices in those two forms. best response is from stone tablets though.
I find that holding my tongue between my two front teeth, with the tip touching the cleft of my chin makes the climate control behave best.

I saw the FSM on some papyrus scrolls on ebay...

oooooh! original ones written by the prophets! I'm sure they are pricy!!!

You were lucky indeed. If you install the panel improperly your left rear tire will go flat and your brake lights will burn out.


The scrolls are in German...

Excellent!!!!! :)

And ye shall be turned into a pillar of rust, just like a BMW 2002....:D

What is the meaning of this symbol? I have it on my clipboard. (Saving for a lab jacket.)

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff/zvacuum.jpg

The secret is in THE VACUUM DIAGRAM.

Saint Leibowitz can't help much here...

It's Satan's Official Seal....;)

You guys are looking at the scribe of Bert,it took an Indiana Jones type of search thru halls of buried MB treasure to bring forth this jewel of jewels.Did you find it on some mountain jungle platue ?

Is there supposed to be a spring under Satans Maze of Doom to keep it seated against the Wheel of Frustration? (Right under Medusas wig.)

The essence appears to be leaking around Satans Seal. I don't remember a spring being in there but the unicorns may have carried it away...

My TD dash has those round knob-thingeys, like my 240D, to run the heat & AC!

Happy Motoring, Mark

AC is serious business requiring serious switches. Do you launch a nuclear missile with a "knob"? Do you send men into space by rotating a "knob"?

I didn't think so...

Not to steal the thread since its all relevant info. The only issue i have with my ACC II system is, no heat, except for on defrost. If i flip the ac compressor switch off, the blower shuts off as well, that didn't used to happen.... Does anyone have any idea which circuit might have the vacuum leak from hearing my symptom?

"When the switch is "OFF" on max cooling, the switchover valves (28 and 29) will open the blower flap to 100% fresh air as well as the flaps in air ducts - center for legroom under climate control cabinet"

From the sacred text... 83.3-600/5 "Operation of Automatic Climate Control System and Tester"

Valves 28 and 29 are behind the button panel.

Chrysler be praised!!

But my rotary knobs are still working, while countless servos, amplifiers, vacuum-pods and monovalves have bit the dust!

I wonder how far NASA would have gone with a Chrysler servo?

I'll take a look at that circuit tomorrow. Still dunno if that's causing no heat problem. With my temp wheel at 85 degrees and set on auto-lo or auto hi, the blower will never come on... hmmm

They had one on the Space Shuttle Challenger..........

You need to start testing things according to the scriptures.

Correct ACC II operation will keep the blower off until coolant temp reaches a specified temperature.

In the AUTO LO/AUTO HI/Bi-LEVEL positions, and the temp wheel set to cold, the blower will start as soon as vaccum is developed to a specified degree.

Comon cause of no heat is a stuck hot water control valve which causes the servo mechanism to freeze up.

It is written that any type of stop leak or Aluma-Seal will general lock up the servo's water valve.

You need to start from the beginning and start testing every circuit. Do not skip any steps. There are no shortcuts....Robert

There is a temp switch on the very bottom of the servo. Connect the 2 lines (black and yellow I believe) together to bypass it for troubleshooting.

If you really want to risk the wrath O' the SERVO GODS then isolate your ACC vacuum circuit from the rest of the cars vacuum systems. It does need to be connected to the vacuum reservoir and you need the one way valve installed.

Before starting follow these steps:

1-Sleep with the "Operation of Automatic Climate Control System" manual under your pillow. (A yellow binder helps but some swear by a green and black one)

2- Get up and burn some incense with a "woody" character. (Reminiscent of the Black Forest).

3- Put this on repeat in the garage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gChOifUJZMc

4- DO NOT let your Mity Vac get more than 2 feet from your RIGHT HAND during the procedure. And just go ahead and shave your head before starting. This will save time.

Allow 6-8 weeks for thorough diagnostics. (Add another 2-4 weeks for remedies)

Light hallucinogenics have been proven to be helpful but a little weed smoked through a windshield washer and vacuum line bong helps...

The UnwiredTools digital servo upgrade is $600 of frustration-removing bliss.

Dear God How do I print the manuscript

From the land of Michigan, in the town of Detroit, as master called Chrysler cameth forth. "Behold, you shall have cool air in the heat of the desert and warm air to comfort you in the night. The servo that I bestoweth unto you shall be your salvation." As the servo was used by the people, they rose up, dashing the servo against the rocks. "Thy promise of coolness in the desert and warmth at night is false. Thou hast bared false witness unto us." Chrysler said "Behold, I shall send the servo to a far away land." And thus the servo was shunned unto the land of Germany where it found its way to the town of Stuttgart. The servo then served the neweth master well until it was smited and became clogged and cracked. The people had no choice but to use the servo until the people learned to changeth the servo into something good. "Let cool air flow unto our faces and warm air comfort us at night for thy servant hast made an aluminum body for soeth it shall not crack and the other servant has used the fluid so prophesied so it may not become clogged."
The people rejoiced for they have been saved.

I have worked on a few cars with it, and I do not like it. It is NOT foolproof by any means and it does not give you the same temperature control as a properly working ACC II system....Robert

I am considering it once I get my ACC system up to speed and something non-vacuum related craps out.

What is so different about it? I understand that some folks think it's some kind of silver bullet and I understand how you could have problems OUTSIDE the servo that it won't help.

The way it's jumped across the servo vacuum switch can't give the same amount of flap control as the stock system. I don't think...

Flap Control will henceforth be referred to as "Flappage" to simplify discourse...

"Flappage" is still reasonably functional with the exception of the fresh-air door. The center vents, the defrost vents, and the foot vents all still work. I manually move my fresh air door - mostly open in the winter and mostly closed in the summer.

I agree - the UT kit is not a silver bullet as it does not correct pod issues, control panel issues, or vacuum leaks in any of the connectors. After my servo locked up and drained the battery it really was an easy decision to move to the kit.

Everyone is different and we all have our own ideas about how the car should work and how much we time and money we are willing to invest in our cars.

My local indy says that he has installed two UT servo kits. He says that they have upgraded the original unit and the newer one is much better.

Hey Doc, I assume the only "calibration" of the servo itself is changing the position of the feedback pot to insure the controller is "seeing" the proper position of the servo motor?

Some servo stuff I found helpful:

http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/servos.html

Dig deep with a big shovel...

There isn't much to it, but it is important. The oracle I posted explains the procedure.

The oracle is old and fuzzy, and I don't see very well. I even tried printing and couldn't read it :o

E-Mail me via my profile. Send me a big envelope and I will mail the oracle to thee....

So I have no heat coming out at all, Even in defrost with a warm car. So I tested the servo according to the manual, and it opens and closes OK. It does whine at a set interval when opening and closing but it stops quickly. Thinking it must be the aux pump, I tried to test it by powering it directly from the battery. I couldn't hear anything click or the motor go when powering it directly. Am I doing this right? Is the aux pump bad?

Thanks.

Jason

Mine will begin to get warm at idle with the aux. pump off but it works a lot better when the pump is running. I'd remove and try to lube/free up the aux pump and test it. I would also make sure that your servo is actually opening the water valve. You can remove the crossover chamber at the bottom and check it visually.

I can post some pics if it'll help you.

Lot of good info that will explain what should happen when and at what setting here:

http://handbook.w116.org/Climate/83-600.pdf

It be-ith true. The servo gods exist. Thou partake-ith on the path to enlightment doth ancient texts and thou will find thee.

All I did is read the manual 3x and run a few tests on the servo and "cast thou holy alcohol on thou terminals" and I now have heat.

I'm feeling the need to keep studying the service manual or the god's will be pissed.

Thanks.

Keep after it. My wife uses my 1978 300SD often for her Mary Kay business. She is a tough customer. The ACC II system works very, very well IF all the required values are within specification.

I am using one of the dreaded 'Mantis' servos (bought new in 2005) that have such a bad reputation, but it works better than any other servo I have used, once properly claibrated.

I downloaded each page as a jpeg image and printed them off. Still a bit fuzzy but at least they print out as 8.5 x 11. They printed out as 2/3 page images, right off the site.

That would apply to every MBz independent around here for sure.

Ok now you're frightening me. What's a pod? The thingies labelled as "vacuum element" in the diagram?

Or is this entire thread code for some DEA sting operation? ("...someone is always stopping by and needing a good pod.") :alien2:

Just say NO to pods. I've been into pods for only 3 weeks and it has only led to dizzyness, confusion, muscle aches, insomnia and now wet feet...

I fear that they may lead to stronger stuff like "IP"'s and "Bowden Cables".

It may be too late for me...

The ACC II system in the W123 has started acting up.

When i turn it to auto lo, auto hi, or bi-level, the fan comes on but the compressor never does.

The compressor works on defrost.

I just found the 10 pin test port under the dash, never knew that was there. I tested the in car temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, and the temp wheel. Everything was fine however with the temp wheel at 75 degrees i had 806ohms, the oracle says i should has 900 ohms, so i adjusted the temp wheel to read properly.

The servo runs when i put power to pins 4 and 5. But the servo will not run when i turn the temp wheel.

I swapped in anther amp which was a known good unit, same problem, servo wont run.

Hey Doktor Bert - Do you have any knowledge on the vacuum levels of the Climate Control system (measured from engine compartment) on different heat control settings?

I have a problem in my Climate Control system that is causing engine shutdown issues. I would like to use my hand-pump vac gauge to help diagnose parts of the system which are causing the leak - or at least what i think is a leak. So far i have located 2 failed (leaking) points and wonder if there are more.

Here is the link and snippet of my question from that post regarding vacuum
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/310231-remove-ccu-116-300sd-engine-shutdown-issue.html

Tested system with vacuum gauge inline:
(edit) vacuum gauge inline at firewall inside engine compartment, green/black vac line (edit)
Off = 7"
Auto Lo = 7"
Auto High = 7"
Bi Level = 20"
DEF = 20"

Note: Item #38 shows "Specified leak point" so that might reflect in the measured results???

Have you pulled a vacuum on your shut off diaphragm directly to see if it has a leak?

Kerry - Yes i have, shutoff will hold vacuum. I was shooting for vacuum levels when different parts of the circuits (vacuum paths) in specific operating modes, hoping to locate where additional failed vacuum line connectors (soft black rubber sections) might be. I have tested all the engine compartment vacuum lines for leaks and ended up having to dive into the Climate Control system. I have not checked out the Servo vac lines as i consider that part of the CC system.

Looks like i need to pull off the mufti-vacuum line snap-on block (see photo) from the rear of CCU to assist in flushing out oil from each section the best i can with brake cleaner and compressed air.

I have current pictures and shop drawings to assist in dismantling sections to flush. Anyone go down this road before with suggestions, please let me know.