Diesel Injection Timing Device
 

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=FERV765-01

Anyone have any experience with this kind of timing device? Seems like the drip method is a bit of a pita and not all that precise -thoughts?

Lots of good threads in the archives....
and the drip method has some advantages....

The info/threads are somewhere in the below links:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

Has anyone used one of them before? That seems much better.

The thing with the generic Diesel Timing Devices you need to time your particular Diesel with the Factory approved Method first and hook up the Device. You use that Factory Timing to calibrate your Timing Device. (So it is not going to be more accurate than the Factory Metnod.)

One of the reasons for the above is that on a Mercedes the timing is static. The Dynamic Timing of the Diesel Timing Device will most likely take place at a different Degree number than the Static Timing.

After that you can use your Timing Device for timing with out messing with the Factory Timing Method.

If you use it on anther type of Diesel Engine you need again do as in the first paragraph.

I believe the Diesel Timing Devices I have seen favor a person or business with a lot of the very same Vehicles.

An example of this might be a School Bus Company that has a lot of small Chevy or Ford School Busses.

All of this is spoken of in the several Threads in the DIY section.

I'm still interested in this sort of approach though I've been spending my time doing other stuff recently...

I think the main trouble with measuring the pressure in the delivery line is that there doesn't seem to be anyway of comparing this measurement with the data in the FSM. The FSM is based on begin of delivery which happens during the power stroke. (EDIT => this is wrong! Begin of delivery occurs during the compression stroke RTFM!) The maximum pressure measured in the delivery line would occur during the compression stroke...

...if anyone has got access to some official data or unofficial data then I for one would be interested in seeing it. (If it has already been posted in the many other threads please say which one 'cos I've missed it)

If you have an RIV timing port I recommend getting the $30 lock tool. Takes 15-30min to set it that way.

What lead you to that conclusion?

Actually with the Drip Method as long as there is any Drips present the Plunger is not yet in position to deliver Fuel.
Give us your best guess as to why they want at least some Drips present:o

Below is a pic of the tool that works on my 84 300D.

I am not sure that it replaces Drip Timing because I recently purchased and used it.
While there are other causes for it I feel my Injectors are slightly noiser than before I used the Tool.
When I get around to it I will do the Drip Method so I can compare the difference between the 2 methods.

The issue with the Fuel Injection Pump Timing/Locking Pin is that because it uses a certain positon on the Camshaft; just as if the Fuel Injection Pump was brand new; it does not compensate for Fuel injection Pump Camshaft And Roller Wear.

The issue with the Drip Method is that your are only timing off of one of the Elements. It is possible for the other Elements to have their timing off.

But, off timing of the other Elements cannot be changed without going inside of the Fuel Injection Pump.

Now that sent me scuttling off back to the FSM! And errrr I've got that wrong haven't I? The FSM states BTDC for an OM616 / OM617...

How come the OM603 is specified as ATDC in this wiki?

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM603InjectionPump

That's where I got the idea from...

That (15* ATDC) is an artificial reference point, not a representation of when start of delivery actually occurs.

Thanks - I was really confused!