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-   -   Got an A/C repair price quote (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/299985-got-c-repair-price-quote.html)

Yak 06-07-2011 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digieditny (Post 2730670)
1984 300td turbo Euro. Manual A/C.

I'm providing new compressor, drier, and expansion valves.

He says

"you should put in the 134 A in it, but seeing as how you don't want to convert the work can cost anywhere between 500-900.00, you have to provide the freon"

Does that sound about right? Is r-12 hard to come by?

Take some pics and post them here about your system. Since you've got a euro wagon the default parts searches may result in the wrong parts for your car; e.g. you might have a Sanden compressor instead of an R-4.

You can build a parts price list pretty easy if you know what you're looking for. Use the link I sent the other day and review M-B A/C theory and parts. A little knowledge about the basics of what the parts do helps immensely.

Between $500 and 900 may be about right for a ballpark figure for a new compressor ($200-300), R/D (factory price (~200?), leak check, fill and test. But that's the "replace the common broken parts" estimate unless he's already diagnosed the compressor as bad or some other obvious leak, like a hole in your condenser or cut or leaky hose.

leathermang 06-07-2011 07:06 PM

Thanks Yak, we are building a list and he is checking on what he can rent instead of buying close to him....
He does not have the R-4 or Sanden... another name..but regular type compressor..

He has not diagnosed the compressor as bad yet... just starting to gather tools... nitrogen, r22, gauges, etc

vstech 06-08-2011 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak (Post 2731300)
Take some pics and post them here about your system. Since you've got a euro wagon the default parts searches may result in the wrong parts for your car; e.g. you might have a Sanden compressor instead of an R-4.

You can build a parts price list pretty easy if you know what you're looking for. Use the link I sent the other day and review M-B A/C theory and parts. A little knowledge about the basics of what the parts do helps immensely.

Between $500 and 900 may be about right for a ballpark figure for a new compressor ($200-300), R/D (factory price (~200?), leak check, fill and test. But that's the "replace the common broken parts" estimate unless he's already diagnosed the compressor as bad or some other obvious leak, like a hole in your condenser or cut or leaky hose.


the price is for labor only... the poster is providing ALL parts!
$500 would be my ULTIMATE high price.
more likely in the 100-180 range.

digieditny 06-08-2011 12:55 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Going to post pictures of my A/C components in a sec.

In the meantime, check out this sexy photo.

leathermang 06-08-2011 01:14 PM

Yes , that is a sexy picture... shows how warped some of us are.....

alabbasi 06-08-2011 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech (Post 2731724)
the price is for labor only... the poster is providing ALL parts!
$500 would be my ULTIMATE high price.
more likely in the 100-180 range.

It's not unreasonable for him to give a range. It's an old car so there is no telling what he may run into. Here the independent labor rate is about $100-110 hr.

5 hours sounds pretty reasonable to change a compressor, expansion valve, and dryer, then pull a vac, let it sit to make sure that there are no leaks and charge the system.

If there are leaks, or it doesn't cool because of a blockage somewhere or a hose is dry rotted etc, then it will need more work which will cost more.

I'm going through this effort myself with a fellow that I met through the forum circles, it was supposed to be just a quick vac and charge, but then it turns out that he needs a new expansion valve, drier, then it doesn't cool because the vents are not opening properly due to vacuum issues etc etc.

I offered my labor for free, but needless to say, had I known it was going to be so much aggro, I wouldn't have touched it with a 10ft barge pole.

digieditny 06-08-2011 03:16 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Please follow this LINK to see the pictures. They should be large. Let me know if there's anything I should take a picture of closer. Yes that's the dryer that's unplugged.

I was able to turn the front of the compressor. Not sure if that is worth anything. Yes she's kinda rusty...

leathermang 06-08-2011 03:18 PM

Al,
Don't take a chance on offering free labor to me.... you are only 200 miles and I will come pick you up in an air conditioned Lincoln Towncar..LOL
What is ' aggro ' ? it is not shortened 'aggrAvation' ... so I am out of guesses....

TylerH860 06-08-2011 04:57 PM

My indy replaced my compressor, dryer, expansion valve, condenser, radiator, fan clutch, fan shroud, upper and lower radiator hoses, and thermostat for $600 @ $70 an hour labor. I provided all the parts. I went way overboard but now the SL has very good performing AC on 134 and is turn key again. I always seem to find about $2000 a year to spend on it despite only driving it about 2000 miles a year. :o

alabbasi 06-08-2011 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang (Post 2731821)
What is ' aggro ' ? it is not shortened 'aggrAvation' ... so I am out of guesses....

Exactly (in British English).

Yak 06-08-2011 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digieditny (Post 2731819)
Please follow this LINK to see the pictures. They should be large. Let me know if there's anything I should take a picture of closer. Yes that's the dryer that's unplugged.

I was able to turn the front of the compressor. Not sure if that is worth anything. Yes she's kinda rusty...

That looks like a standard R-4 compressor. Harrison might have been an OE supplier. I pulled a Harrison off and it had the M-B "upside down" X - oil-well thing.

You note that your aux fan high-temp switch is disconnected, so it might be easy to jumper and test the motor. You could easily unscrew the switch and test that with a meter, a high-temp thermometer and a pan of water; if you're building a list and want to consider the temp probe.

In the big picture, I'd keep an eye on those oil cooler lines. The one in pic 2 or 3 looks a bit rusty so it may indicate old age. Or it might just indicate salty NE roads and the rubber is fine. Worth a look, though.

leathermang 06-08-2011 07:20 PM

I just asked him if he was sure that was not an R-4....
Sure does look like it...

Yak 06-08-2011 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang (Post 2731941)
I just asked him if he was sure that was not an R-4....
Sure does look like it...

Service manual Harrison HR110MD. Use at own risk. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CFwQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.twistedandes.com%2Fforo%2Fattachment.php %3Fattachmentid%3D64175%26d%3D1248701503&rct=j&q=Harrison%20HR110MD&ei=8AXwTbfTBIeftweuo6mXCQ&usg=AF QjCNFGZEwcazShVQ8F76yJq2onGTPixA

digieditny 06-08-2011 07:37 PM

I found that manual too. How would I be able to tell if it's an R-4?

engatwork 06-08-2011 07:43 PM

Do a google search on r4 compressor picture and there are many pics out there on the net.


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