Hmmm... Well I think I may have found it, but it is a real PIA to get to. See my attachment. The A and B bolt heads I am sure of. The one next to the crankshaft pulley, is that the 3rd one, C?

What O-ring are you referring to? I don't want to break it, but after replacing the nozzles, the engine has a lot of clatter and I've read this may mean the IP timing is retarded. I just want to advance the timing a scosch and see if the clatter subsides. If not, I will return it to the same position.

The o-ring is between the IP and the crankcase. Part # 013 997 09 47. It allows oil to drain from the IP back into the engine (the IP is lubricated by engine oil). At your mileage the o-ring is probably old and hard. It is possible that it will leak externally if disturbed and make a continual mess on that side of the block. Removing the IP just to replace that o-ring is a lot of work.

That's not a good reference image in your pdf, at least the B position looks off. The three IP bolts are around the engine vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is held by bolts that take a 10mm wrench, the IP is held by bolts that take a 13mm wrench.

I circled the three holes for the IP retaining bolts in this picture of a 603 from gsxr's collection. Imagine the engine vacuum pump is sitting over the exposed IP timer and timing chain. You might have to remove the power steering pump pulley for access to the outboard bolt.

Sixto
87 300D

Good picture of my favorite engine:).

Jim, you realize that's a .970, right? No side oil pan and dipstick in front.

Sixto
87 300D

lol - oops I should have looked a little closer before speaking. Good catch.

Thanks Sixto. I'll see what I can do without having to remove to much stuff.

Thanks Jeremy. I will keep this in mind. I do not want to break the oring!!

Jeff, on your picture, C is indeed the last bolt. This is backed up by sixto's picture. I was able to reach all 3 bolts with a 3/8" drive, 3" extension and socket.

I have another question:
Which direction on screw 30/1 does what, and what are the effects of retarded/advanced ignition? I usually need to understand the theory behind what I'm doing before I get it.

I have timed my injection pump on my 190D 2.2 several times (don't ask why), and used the timing tool that is inserted in the governor port (I think that is what it is called). If you loosen the pump enough to adjust it, the O ring may leak (as alluded to earlier). You may be better off just removing the IP, (to replace the O ring) and timing it a little advanced. The tool is available here, but I just made one with a wood dowel and cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw. I placed the crank pulley at the timing I desired (spec is 24-26 BTDC IIRC), and plugged in the IP with the home made tool holding the governor in place.

See my post that has the pages from the FSM: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2731588-post5.html

It has the description of CW versus CCW.

Rollguy: Thanks! Any chance you could post a picture of the wood dowel and the governor port so we can see how it might relate to our OM606's?

I think I stated that the timing was done on a 2.2 4 cyl. I believe all Bosch I P's after about '84 had this timing port (correct me if I am wrong). It is used for the electronic tool called (I think) an A-B light. The port is also used for fitting the timing tool into. I have not worked on a 606 I P, so I can't say for sure if they work the same as the 2.2. Maybe someone else can chime in here. The tool I made was a cheap (and quickly made) version of the M B factory (Bosch) tool. The tool is just basically a wooden dowel with a slot cut in it. The governor has a raised part that looks like a slotted screwdriver sticking out. The dowel (or the actual tool) is inserted in the hole, and the blade fits into the slot, holding the governor steady (and in time). With the crank pulley placed at the desired #BTDC, the I P is installed and bolted down. The timing is now set.
The way I understand it, the A/B light does essentially the same thing, except the crank is turned until both lights light. The degree on the crank is noted, and the I P advanced, or retarded until the both lights are lit at the desired timing. Either method can be used, but I think the A/B light is quite expensive. The timing tool should cost no more than $50.00, but I made one that worked for almost nothing.

Rollguy: Ah, I think you are referring to the RIV method as in the attached pages from the FSM?

It sounds like you are inserting the dowel into the indicated 017 port on the governor housing?

And then the specs indicated for my OM606 is 14 deg + 0.5 deg ATDC. So using this method... my ideal timing would be when the slot in the dowel is aligned with the governor blade and the timing pulley lines up from 14 to 14.5 degrees. Am I understanding correctly?

Yes that looks correct. However, I think the crank is put at whatever degrees BTDC for installing the pump with the timing pin holding the governor.
At least that was what I did on the 2.2. I think it was 24 degrees BTDC.
If your engine is together, you can check where the timing is at now by removing the plug on the gov housing, and lining the blade in the center of the hole. Look at the crank pulley and note where the pointer is. The A/B light does this exact thing, only much more accurate. The professional timing tool is spring loaded, and snaps in when the blade lines up with the slot.Here is an ebay listing with photo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Engine-Injection-Pump-Pin-Timing-Tool-/110695171365?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19c5f24525