0. Buy all 4 bushings, they're cheap. 2 (inner/upper) are larger donuts than the 2 (outer/end) ones.

1. You could also do this job without jacking the car, but then you're working pretty low to the ground. So get two car jacks, block the rear wheels, put the parking brake on. Jack up both front wheels 1" off the ground, and now the sway bar is unsprung and taking no torsion. You can do this job with the belly pans in place.

2. Get two 13mm socket wrenches, 3/8" drive is fine. Or, one socket wrench and a normal wrench works too.

3. Do one side of the car at a time, do both bushings on that side, then move to other side. Remove a front wheel. You do all work through this wheel well opening.

4. Spot the sway bar. It's the thick bar connecting one wheel carrier to the other wheel, the bar runs across the front of car ahead of the front axles. It's job, by the way, is to make your independent suspension less independent (more dependent on what the other side of the car is doing).

5. Remove 2 x 13mm nuts on each of the bushings' "U" shaped clamps to un-sandwich each bushing. You'll need two drivers on the inner/upper clamp, but just one tool on the other clamp (nearest the wheel) because its bolts are welded to the wheel carrier. Leave that sway bar inner/upper bracket in place bolted to the chassis, no need to remove. Don't mix up which U clamp goes where, one is bigger than the other.

6. Pull old donuts off. Do not eat them.

7. Clean the sway bar with soapy water if needed, to help slide the new ones on.

8. Slide the new inner donut on first, then slide the outer one on. Get them positioned roughly where they need to be and re-clamp by threading the nuts and bolts back together by hand. The clamps will self-align and seat themselves perfectly around the bushings as you tighten down the fasteners. If you weren't paying attention, bolts go through the holes from the back of the car with threaded end toward the front for those upper/inner clamps. But it probably doesn't matter.

9. Tighten clamps uniformly until metal brackets meet back together, then torque to finish. Judging by the thread pitch I put a medium arm on them, or follow the FSM if you're German or unsure if you're German. Tighten them right down with the car up in the air, yes, it's OK.

10. Put wheel back on. Leave car jacked on both sides, do other side.

11. When done, lower car and check torque on lug bolts.

12. Go for a drive and smile.

__________________
Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D