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  #1  
Old 01-22-2002, 02:13 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Diego, Ca
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Angry Loss of power after adjusting the valves.

I decided to adjust my valves this last weekend. Well the first time through I didn't do such a good job. The motor was hot, likely cooled too much in the process, and I just wasn't very good at it. As a result the car ran like crap.

Today I did it again with the motor cool and really took my time. The engine runs much more smoothly, idles more smoothly, but it isn't as fast as before.

When I originally checked 'em, it seemed most if not all were too tight of clearance. Now they are as spot on as I can get them. I double checked them and was very meticulous. I just can't quite understand the loss of power. Any ideas?

Frank.

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  #2  
Old 01-22-2002, 09:10 AM
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Seems impossible that if the valves are adjusted correctly and the engine runs smother that it would have a loss of power. How did you determine that there is a loss in power? The only way to really tell is to see how fast it goes up a long hillbefore and after but the conditions must be exactly the same: wind speed and direction, temperature, and barometric pressure. If it doesn't seem to have enough power on a hill, this is a symptom of a plugged fuel filter.

P E H
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  #3  
Old 01-22-2002, 12:54 PM
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I'll give her a run on the freeway today. My estimation of the loss of power is totally seat of the pants. Just doesn't feel as punchy as before.

I did just remember that I'm out of Redline and this is the first tank without it in a long time. Maybe that stuff really does make a big difference. I'm going to order some more right now.

In the mean time, I do have some extra fuel filters but I just changed the ones in there about 3 weeks ago when I found an algea issue. Maybe some of the algae as clogged the new ones.

Frank.
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Old 01-22-2002, 08:35 PM
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I notice, seat of the pants method, that my '79 300SD has more power when it is cold. This agrees with the law of physics because the cold air is denser and expands more when the fuel is burned in the cylinders.

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  #5  
Old 01-22-2002, 08:51 PM
LSMITH
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Frank, if you had algae in the tank you need to get it pulled out and steamcleaned. The algae can live in the tank and will bloom again the next time water is introduced, even condensation is enough to sustain it for months. You also need to treat the fuel for the next couple of tanks after the steam cleaning with a strong biocide made for the purpose of killing algae in diesel fuel. You will notce that the filters clog amazingly fast with the dead algae, you may go though 5 filters in the next month or so. If you do not address the algae you can damage your injection pump and injectors, both will cost you dearly. I am not trying to be an alarmist, I have seen this happen to others. It is not pleasant. Full frontal assault is the only way to deal effectively with algae.

If you know where you got the bad fuel they may be willing to assist with the costs you will incur getting your car fixed.
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Old 01-22-2002, 08:52 PM
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My car is exactly the opposite. When cold it is totally lethargic. It's fastest when it's good and warm.

As for power, I drove some streets I drive often and it definitely has less power. She just doesn't want to get up and go like before. Oh well, the radiator just took a dump so that can distract me from the performance issue for a while.

Frank.
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2002, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by LSMITH
Frank, if you had algae in the tank you need to get it pulled out and steamcleaned. The algae can live in the tank and will bloom again the next time water is introduced, even condensation is enough to sustain it for months. You also need to treat the fuel for the next couple of tanks after the steam cleaning with a strong biocide made for the purpose of killing algae in diesel fuel. You will notce that the filters clog amazingly fast with the dead algae, you may go though 5 filters in the next month or so. If you do not address the algae you can damage your injection pump and injectors, both will cost you dearly. I am not trying to be an alarmist, I have seen this happen to others. It is not pleasant. Full frontal assault is the only way to deal effectively with algae.

If you know where you got the bad fuel they may be willing to assist with the costs you will incur getting your car fixed.
Very interesting. I do think I know where I go it. A local Chevron station. I first hit it with 2 tubes the biocide, cleaned the water separator and 3 new fuel filters. The car ran great. With each tank I would check the separator for anything since the bottom of it is clear glass. After filling up at that Chevron again, I noticed the fuel was cloudy, I couldn't see through it. I put more biocide in and it's clear again.

I'm going to throw on the new filters, put more biocide in it and see if it helps. Also I should throw some Redline in as this is the first tank in ages I don't have any. I don't even know where I could take the tank for cleaning. But, I don't want to toast that injection pump. I have a spare but those things are like 1100 bucks I think if you have to buy one. Plus I have new injectors I'd like to keep for a while.

Thanks for the info, I'll talk to the gas station.

Frank.
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  #8  
Old 01-24-2002, 12:07 AM
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Talking I'm dumb

Well I figured out the loss of power. When re-assembling I thought I'd take the slop out of the throttle linkage, it had a lot. Well I took it out in the wrong direction. Sure the linkages were mostly taught, but I "pulled" 'em that way, the linkage pushes them. Basically I maximized the slop. After adjusting it the other way, the power is back big time.

Now if I can just figure out why I get 19-20 mpg no matter what I do to it I'll be in there. Thanks for you help and sorry if I wasted you time.

Frank.

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