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722.1 Secondary pump special tool
G'day All,
I'm so close I can smell it! I'm nearly at the end of my transmission rebuild and pow bam slam - yet another delay... W116 589 00 11 00 is unobtainium http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/dat...n/image002.gif Any advice? Where can I find one? Has anyone managed to remove a secondary pump without knackering the screw head with other / self made tools before? My first plan:- Buy a 1/2" socket with thick flat blade screw driver attachment and grind a round shape on it. Ideas? |
Without actually having the Screw or even a pic of the Screw; it looks like you could make the Tool by finding a Socket with the correct outside diameter and using JB Weld to stick a Nut inside of the Socket and simply cut the slot through the Nut and Socket.
If a regular Hacksaw Blade us not up to the task use one that has Tungsten Carbide grit on it (it will be real slow to cut). |
Can you post a picture of the problem fastener? There are dozens of us wanting to help (well, maybe not quite so many), who don't know what the issue is. ( I don't, though I have about three of these babies):o
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For you lot on the good side of the pond you can get the tool here apparently
http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=32 |
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1310489251 It is the big screw in this photograph. As you can see the edges of the slot are starting to burr. The slot has a crescent shape going into the cap. The slot is 30mm long and almost 4mm wide - say 3.5mm and you'd be good! |
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I'll post a picture if it does. |
Did you try a wave of the "blue wrench"? (That's heat, in case you don't understand American). Might work as the casting is alloy and the screw isn't and there looks to be some corrosion going on.
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NAPA or other Tool Places sell one piece Sockets with a Blade on them (or at least they used to). I believe they are used on Drag Links ends. You would have to grind it into the Cresent shape; however, they may sell one with the curved/cresent end. Did a quick Google searh for Drag Link Sockets and came up with the first pic. On jobs where something might jump out of a slot a Hand Impact Wrench in the other pic often will do the Job because you hit it with a Hammer and that forces it forward at the same time it does the twisting and tends to keep it in the slot. |
I have used a large coin & a crescent wrench on that sort of screw fitting. If the coin is too soft, a thrust washer (high tensile) will do it.
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Thanks layback40, Diesel911 and rs899
3 great ideas - I'll tell you with one works. 'Cos of the corrosion the odds are heat will help the most... burn baby burn. |
Update
Strike one - washers too ductile.
Strike two coins too small these days and I'm not spoiling the large old fashioned Swiss Francs I found under the back seat! Strike two and a bit - butane not hot enough (as bloody usual) => note to self about time you bought a decent propane torch you kipper. Now searching for the original idea => 1/2" sockets with screwdriver bits much like those posted by Diesel911. Only problem most are too thin and I don't fancy my chances of grinding a curve on hardened tips... What a bloody day - I'm fed up. |
Aw , just grind it off and deal with the collateral damage:D
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For some reason the small things seem to = larger problems. The Drag Link sockets come in different thicknesses. Who knows what is available in your area? |
Find a big, heavy washer that provides a tight fit in the slot and weld a piece of pipe accross it to use as a handle.
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I did say 'thrust' washer !! Regular flat ones are much too soft. You need something high tensile. If you had an oxy set you could heat a washer & quench it. A big spring washer may have a chance or better still a piece of leaf spring that has been shaped with an angle grinder. A very large shaft key may work. A car tire leaver if it was thick enough on the end. Was just looking around the workshop when I thought of them. (11am Saturday here) |
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