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  #1  
Old 07-12-2011, 08:56 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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722.1 Secondary pump special tool

G'day All,

I'm so close I can smell it! I'm nearly at the end of my transmission rebuild and pow bam slam - yet another delay...

W116 589 00 11 00 is unobtainium



Any advice?

Where can I find one?

Has anyone managed to remove a secondary pump without knackering the screw head with other / self made tools before?

My first plan:-

Buy a 1/2" socket with thick flat blade screw driver attachment and grind a round shape on it.

Ideas?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 07-12-2011 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #2  
Old 07-12-2011, 09:28 AM
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Without actually having the Screw or even a pic of the Screw; it looks like you could make the Tool by finding a Socket with the correct outside diameter and using JB Weld to stick a Nut inside of the Socket and simply cut the slot through the Nut and Socket.

If a regular Hacksaw Blade us not up to the task use one that has Tungsten Carbide grit on it (it will be real slow to cut).
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Last edited by Diesel911; 07-12-2011 at 06:50 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2011, 10:54 AM
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Can you post a picture of the problem fastener? There are dozens of us wanting to help (well, maybe not quite so many), who don't know what the issue is. ( I don't, though I have about three of these babies)
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:45 PM
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For you lot on the good side of the pond you can get the tool here apparently

http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=32
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
Can you post a picture of the problem fastener? There are dozens of us wanting to help (well, maybe not quite so many), who don't know what the issue is. ( I don't, though I have about three of these babies)
Here we go. The secondary pump is situated on the tail cone of the 722.1 transmission. This is the bit right next to where the 3rd engine mount / gearbox mount is fitted.



It is the big screw in this photograph.

As you can see the edges of the slot are starting to burr.

The slot has a crescent shape going into the cap. The slot is 30mm long and almost 4mm wide - say 3.5mm and you'd be good!
Attached Thumbnails
722.1 Secondary pump special tool-722_118-secondary-pump-cap.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2011, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Without actually having the Screw or even a pic of the Screw; it looks like you could make the Tool by finding a Socket with the correct outside diameter and using JB Weld to stick a Nut inside of the Socket and simply cut the slot throgh the Nut and Socket.

If a regular Hacksaw Blade us not up to the task use one that has Tungsten Carbide grit on it (it will be real slow to cut).
Thanks for the tip Diesel911 - that set me thinking - I'll see if I can just fit a bit of 3.5mm steel between the corners of a 6 sided socket and see if that works...

I'll post a picture if it does.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:59 PM
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Did you try a wave of the "blue wrench"? (That's heat, in case you don't understand American). Might work as the casting is alloy and the screw isn't and there looks to be some corrosion going on.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #8  
Old 07-12-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Here we go. The secondary pump is situated on the tail cone of the 722.1 transmission. This is the bit right next to where the 3rd engine mount / gearbox mount is fitted.



It is the big screw in this photograph.

As you can see the edges of the slot are starting to burr.

The slot has a crescent shape going into the cap. The slot is 30mm long and almost 4mm wide - say 3.5mm and you'd be good!
The picture really helps. I had entirely the wrong idea.
NAPA or other Tool Places sell one piece Sockets with a Blade on them (or at least they used to). I believe they are used on Drag Links ends.

You would have to grind it into the Cresent shape; however, they may sell one with the curved/cresent end.

Did a quick Google searh for Drag Link Sockets and came up with the first pic.
On jobs where something might jump out of a slot a Hand Impact Wrench in the other pic often will do the Job because you hit it with a Hammer and that forces it forward at the same time it does the twisting and tends to keep it in the slot.
Attached Thumbnails
722.1 Secondary pump special tool-drag-link-sockets.jpg   722.1 Secondary pump special tool-drag-link-sockets-hand-held-impact-wrench.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 07-12-2011 at 07:05 PM.
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2011, 09:02 PM
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I have used a large coin & a crescent wrench on that sort of screw fitting. If the coin is too soft, a thrust washer (high tensile) will do it.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #10  
Old 07-13-2011, 01:11 AM
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Thanks layback40, Diesel911 and rs899

3 great ideas - I'll tell you with one works.

'Cos of the corrosion the odds are heat will help the most... burn baby burn.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2011, 10:48 AM
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Update

Strike one - washers too ductile.

Strike two coins too small these days and I'm not spoiling the large old fashioned Swiss Francs I found under the back seat!

Strike two and a bit - butane not hot enough (as bloody usual) => note to self about time you bought a decent propane torch you kipper.

Now searching for the original idea => 1/2" sockets with screwdriver bits much like those posted by Diesel911. Only problem most are too thin and I don't fancy my chances of grinding a curve on hardened tips...


What a bloody day - I'm fed up.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2011, 05:15 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
Aw , just grind it off and deal with the collateral damage
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Strike one - washers too ductile.

Strike two coins too small these days and I'm not spoiling the large old fashioned Swiss Francs I found under the back seat!

Strike two and a bit - butane not hot enough (as bloody usual) => note to self about time you bought a decent propane torch you kipper.

Now searching for the original idea => 1/2" sockets with screwdriver bits much like those posted by Diesel911. Only problem most are too thin and I don't fancy my chances of grinding a curve on hardened tips...


What a bloody day - I'm fed up.
LOL you have already faced and finished harder projects.

For some reason the small things seem to = larger problems.

The Drag Link sockets come in different thicknesses. Who knows what is available in your area?
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:52 PM
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Find a big, heavy washer that provides a tight fit in the slot and weld a piece of pipe accross it to use as a handle.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2011, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Strike one - washers too ductile.

Strike two coins too small these days and I'm not spoiling the large old fashioned Swiss Francs I found under the back seat!




What a bloody day - I'm fed up.
Army,
I did say 'thrust' washer !! Regular flat ones are much too soft.
You need something high tensile.
If you had an oxy set you could heat a washer & quench it.
A big spring washer may have a chance or better still a piece of leaf spring that has been shaped with an angle grinder.
A very large shaft key may work.
A car tire leaver if it was thick enough on the end.

Was just looking around the workshop when I thought of them. (11am Saturday here)

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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