Hey Charlie! {subframe}
 

...I'm really sorry. I just couldn't stop myself!

I promise I was careful.




http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...6&d=1310867559

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...7&d=1310867591


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...8&d=1310867618


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...9&d=1310867650

Great set of pics !!
I can see the start of a DIY here !!!

You are going to be done before I get there to help.:rolleyes:

Iam leaving Tuesday after my Dentist appt. at 10am. should be up there Wed. about noon. we are bringing the 240, so that should slow us down a little.

The bushing installer is already in the trunk so I don`t forget it.

Those are some good pictures, very clear. should have had some of Ashly proding you to go faster. :D

Charlie

One more. There are others, but I am not doing a write-up - plenty of those to go around and I don't want the attention. These should give you an idea of a fast, minimal-labor removal.

Feel free to ask questions.

Charlie, thanks for going over that with me. It helped alot. Also, she wasn't around..... thats the only reason I was able to get it done. ; ) Like you said... its just a couple of bolts....



http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1310883895

John, looking at the way you dropped that rear end out is pretty slick. I didn`t think of rolling it out on it`s wheels. I hope you loosened up the lug bolts before hand. we will have to remove the wheels, pull the hub bolt for the axles, then remove the 2 24mm bolts on each trailing Arm. once the bolts are out, then slide it off the axle splines.

So when I get there with the bushing tools, it should be a quick R&R of them.;). looks like I won`t get out of here until 8pm the earliest Tuesday, my wife has to do a last minute baby sittting.

Where is Kurt?

Be Safe.

Charlie

I just saw Kurt today. He saw the subframe and was like: '[O] L [O]'

ha! he's gunna be mad at that picture.

oh right... the subframe. Uh... yeah.... oh. We can get to the axle bolts on the wheel side by prying off the MB logo covers. If that doesn't work... I'll take the wheels off. They are torqued real low.

Its all rainy up here, so there's still plenty to do. I just washed it today, thats it.


I was thinking, instead of pulling the Diff, can't we just yank the axles as we pull the trailing arms?

Remind me to show you the weird movement of my axles... i don't understand why one of them telescopes in such a strange pattern.

Thanks again for the tools.

Rain? Oh yeah, Oregon I forgot about that. Do you ever get summer. :D

Kurt was like a deer cought in the headlights? :stunned:

when he see`s how simple this job is, he will get line for us to do his 240. ;)

Pop off the center cap, and remove the center bolt, 13mm. then removing the wheels will make it much easier to man handle things. we can put the wheels back on to roll it back under.

The axles will slide right out of the arms after the 24mm bolts are removed. shouldn`t have to remove the diff. if you have to replace an axle, then we will have to remove the rear cover to get to the "C" clip.

You have the Homokenitic axles, too bad you don`t have the Annular type. easier to R&R, 6 bolts, drop it and slide it out of the hub. the stub stays in the differential.

Piece of Cake. :D

Charlie

Awwwwwesuuum.

I already drained the diff hoping you would say that. I want to clean it out.... brakekleen??? There was quite a bit of sludge even though I replaced the fluid with Redline less than 8k ago.

Yes, Kurt was in headlights... wearing glasses, ha!

Ok, removing the wheels makes sense. I am game. It will prob be in the same condition when you get here.

Thanks again.... you are theeee man.

yeah. Rub it in, buddy. When I live in Hawaii, guess who's NOT going to be invited. It rains there about once a day.

That's more or less what I did - I also replaced the two easy output seals on the diff when I did my trailing arms and subframe.

Are you planning to paint?

I am too lazy to paint considering the condition. There are a few spots I might touch up due to minor rust and of course where the springs interface.

Did brake cleaner do a good enough job? I am a little concerned about the seal up front.

I was super quick when I cleaned it out - I didn't let it sit at all. Also on a warm day it tends to evaporate quite quickly. The front seal does seem to be a pain to fit. I guess that'll be the one to go.

Even so the amount of muck I got out of the diff has got be worthwhile removing and there is little chance of getting the stuff out of the back of the diff without some sort of pressurised spray effect - so something like brake cleaner has to be the way.

Are you sure you're not going to paint?

It does look nice - here's mine:-

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...pictureid=2280

Sludge? how many miles on that diff? I replaced the one in the 240, had around 310K. changing the oil, had all these pretty sparkles in it. pulled the rear cover, and the 2 Spider gears? the ones on the verticle shaft, were all loose and wobbly. that`s when I up graded from the 3:69 to the 3:58.

You have the 2:88, they are around, just harder to find if you need one.

those 2 side axle seals would be easy to replace with the diff sitting there looking at you, and you have it all apart any way.

the insides of the diff is painted a yellow color as I remember. wouldn`t the brake clean loosen it and cause a possible problem? I know it can wrinkle paint.

Army, that looks good, that is what I did to mine when I had it apart. Used POR after I steam cleaned it and scrubed it down with Marine Clean. sanded and then painted it.

Hawaii? Naa I don`t look good in a grass skirt.:D


Charlie

POR 15 the thing while its out - I did when I had mine out. It doesnt take that long and it guarantees long long long life. Youll never need to worry about *that* part of the car rusting again.

Pulling it out with the wheels is soooo slick. I wish i had done that.