Having done all these jobs (for other things), I would say that removing the L motor mount bracket is easiest. That sounds like #3. To support the engine on the L side, I use a little scissors jack. I have quite a few around, from junkyard car trunks or given to me. While in-there, a good time to replace the rubber engine mounts, esp. if you have the cheap India ones which quickly sag and/or cause vibrations.

Of course, if replacing the radiator anyway, then #2 sounds smart, plus take the oil cooler out with it since you are disconnecting the oil hoses anyway and it is bolted to the radiator.

So, plan your battles wisely. Might wait until doing one of the 4 above if your oil hoses aren't leaking, but look suspect.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Thanks for this Bill.

However, 3.) is exactly as it sounds.
This was Stretch's method whereby one removes the oil cooler line brackets and the one engine shock. No mounts or jacking required.

I won't bore you with the details, but the ideal place to do jack work, is not where I live, that place is in a garage in Northern California where I keep jacks and stands. Unfortunately, the hose shop is not in Northern California, it's ten minutes down the road. So I'm most interested in methods that do not require removal of the engine mount -both of which I changed a couple years ago.

__________________
1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Yeah, the 240D may not be as tricky as wiggling the hoses out on a 300D or a 300SD. I’ve done those but I never touched the hoses on my 240. There’s a lot more room on those.

Taking out the engine shock will buy you some room. I found (on the 300d and sd) that just unbolting the mount and raising the engine 1” created a nice gap to slip the hoses under the mount. This is way easier than snaking them in…which I apparently did years ago as a challenge. I think I was going through something mental at the time and it was therapeutic.

Here is my account.

Changed oil cooler lines today on 300sd 1982

That was a ways back. Oh yeah I’m checking the date. I was going through some major stress with my health that fall. Like “get your affairs in order” stress. I went kind of mental that fall and did some crazy things like trying to remove cooler lines without jacking the engine. Not a good example of what to do. I think I was coping under there.

Well that’s all behind me now. I’m still here!

Get a scissors Jack and a block of wood and raise the engine 1”. Being able to swing the hose under the mount rather than snake it through the hole makes the job easier. It’s worth it!

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

I don't remember why I unbolted the aluminum engine mount bracket. Perhaps I could have slid the oil cooler tubes around it, then down, with the rubber mount off. Those brackets do clean up like new when out, at least in CA where little corrosion.

I do recall that on my 1984 300D, I was also repairing a bad weld job on the K-frame top attachment from an accident (prior owner), so probably needed that bracket off for more elbow room to get my wire-fed welder in there. The shop likely did a half a$$ job because they didn't remove enough parts for room, and looks like they used a rough stick-welder.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

The oil lines need to snake through a narrow passage between the engine and frame. By pulling separating the rubber engine mount at either the top or bottom fastener(s) and raising the engine you allow the metal portion of the hose to easily swing under the mount. Otherwise it needs to be inserted end first like threading a needle which is hard because of space constraints and the flexibility of the line. I recall having to really bend the rubber hose back on itself to make enough room to snake it in.

It was fun for grins. But when I had to do it again on my 300d I unbolted the mount and jacked the engine up 1”. It just opens up the degrees of freedom you have to move the hose around. On that car I rebuilt with the standard barrier ac hose which is VERY stiff. Bending the hose back on itself is hard.

I didn’t remove the entire aluminum bracket. I removed the rubber mount. I cannot quite recall but I might have just separated the bottom side from the car and jacked up the engine just enough so the metal portion of the hose could slip between the car and the mount.

__________________
79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
97 C280 147k miles

That sounds like me during peak quarantine. I know a degree of that feeling.

Scissor jack is a possibility but in general those things scare the shìt out of me.
It’ll be a while before I get to it. In the meantime, further obsessive research required.

Thanks guys.

__________________
1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Good evening, new forum member here. I am glad I found this thread. I am trying to redo some Mercedes oil cooler lines. What is the proper term or name for the M-B fitting on the pipes? Is it specific to M-B only? It looks sort of like a JIC but I don't think thats correct. Thanks,

Put the year and model number of your vehicle in your info and also post it when you ask questions.

See post 2 in the below thread. The rounded bulbus male end I have only read it refried to as an Acorn. However, that is a shop name. Nothing in my 18 years as a diesel mechanic in my experiences uses those but Mercedes.

I have seen a Choline chart where they sold the fittings but don't remember the real name for it.

The threaded end on the Oil Cooler is referred to here on the forum as the Oil Cooler nipple.
The Nipples used to repair the oil cooler nipples are actually the fittings at the base of the Oil Filter Housing that the Oil Cooler Hose screws onto. They have a name and are called screwed nipple.

Oil cooler nipple size and pitch

The ones in the attached picture were listed as conical hose nipples in a catalog. It sells Choline products (Choline Oil Cooler Hose is used on many aftermarket oil cooler hoses including the ones for Mercedes).
https://www.newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=328

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Good morning,

I don't have a Mercedes but I do have a large cooler in great shape I removed from a car in a salvage yard many years ago. I thought I would use it on an old BMW I am renovating. The local hydraulic shop said he could re-use the fittings from the old lines and I found the metric beadlock o-ring fittings I need to fit the adapters on my oil filter canister.

Cooler is too nice not to use but maybe I should re-consider and look at using a new cooler with generic AN fittings. I guess I could always sell it on ebay.

Thanks for the help, Diesel911!

I don't own a Mercedes but I pulled a large cooler out of a salvage yard years ago along with the lines I thought I could use on one of my old BMWs.

The cooler is in great shape and I found the metric female beadlock o-ring fittings that will fit the OEM oil filter canister that I will install on the car. Hydraulic shop said he could re-use the MB fittings and make up new lines for me.

I guess I could purchase a new generic cooler but this Behr unit is large and cleaned up well.