Ok.. let me ask this a different way... just as a heads up for people dealing with pressing in their own cylinder sleeves.... or directing the local machine shop dealing with their engine rebuild which does not have access to a FSM.

Does the FSM state that there is a certain distance up from the block the sleeve is supposed to be when the operation if finished... ?

You could well have had six engines without a problem... you are a long time mechanic... you likely follow the old and proper rules.... clean out and use a tap on all head bolt holes, clean the head bolts, lightly oil them before installing, take the torque down in proper stages, let it rest the specified amount before the final torquing ... and measure the extra 90 degree tightening.... and you checked or surfaced the head so it was flat... and everything was clean enough to eat off of...
Of course that ' as far as I know' .. is hard to calculate....LOL

Wen it comes down to press the new liners there is a rim on the top off the liners and a groove on top off the engine block, I just messure the groove depth and the rim to ensure that the liner is all the way inside, wen it comes to the part off pushing the linerin the block a 3/4 threaded rod work fine I put a stell plate and a nylon plate as the liner goes down it gets harder I didn't use any oil.
I used a nice mitutoyo caliper I guess I could also use a micrometer but wen the liner goes al the way down is prety clear.
To mesure the boring size I use a new ring and a feeler gouge in diferent parts off the cylinder wall, and check it again with the piston, may not be the most accurate way to messure but I will do something nicer wen I start working in the engine that I toke out. The size is 90.9

{Nice to see you back on the forum again}

Just for the record chapter 01-115 states

Ok... installed sleeves are to be taken to flush with the top of the block.

I encourage people to study the FSM when dealing with the sleeves as the specs... including the chamfer at the top... to allow the compression of the rings as you install the piston is very specific. They give specs for things most people have never even heard of.

... including the chamfer at the top...
I forgot to mention that part, I did put a chamfer at the top, not as bit as the one on the manual or the old cylinder liners.
I figure after the whole rebuild procces that I could have changed more parts and do a cleaner work in any case the idea was to test the boring machine that I make and do a more detail work on the engine from the car, the spare is a 78 and the car is and 82.
There are some more tools that I want to makevalve seat milling atachment, IP adapter plate to set in the lathe and check the injectors and IP, and a bunch off things to change in the engine since it has around 370k miles, timing chain, valve guides, maybe valves, pistons, etc, etc.
Among other things I wanted to see how the use off veggie oil on a straigth/ blend set up affected the engine after 60k miles, take the car to DEQ was other thing to.
I also got some time ago a NOS off 91.5 piston set,

So, does it run?

Hi
The car has being running for a couples off weeks so far pretty well, it has about 2000 miles in the rebuild engine
There are no oil leeks and no blow by, I still need to tune a new set off injectors with the injection pump and the timing

subetealabici, it is amazing what you have done by building your own tools to rebuild the engine. Hats off to you! Good that no one jumped in to discourage you by calling you a hack and that you have to abide by every little bit in the FSM etc. etc. Keep us posted on new developments such as the generator project.

Here is the value to having and following the specific instructions in the manual produced by the people who made the engines and have millions of dollars to spend on R and D...

Pistons are almost always aluminum.... there are typically three or four rings grooves around their outside.... obviously for the rings... which do not sit inside the rings until they are compressed by the piston being INSIDE the bore...
So as you try to put the piston into the bore.. you have these ' fingers' wanting to stick out past the bore.. so you use a tool meant to keep them flush with the edge of the piston... while you slide the piston into the bore..
But all it takes is one tiny slip ... the ring compressor not exactly down to the top of that bore...and you are tapping on the piston to get it in...
and you risk breaking the ring LAND... the part between the rings... which can be fairly narrow depending on the piston length and the number of rings..
The ring compressor does not usually go into the bore at all..
so the Chamfer at the top of the bore needs to be of a design ( ramp) which will allow the rings to be further compressed to slide into the bore...
If they are not.. you can break the ring... or the land.... or both...
This might not be TOO much of a problem on the 616 pistons.. .as they are relatively reasonable in price compared to the turbo 617 pistons..
But if you ruin that piston... which... if you followed the FSM procedure to get the bore to piston distance correct by measuring the piston and boring the sleeve to fit it...
You have a new piston NOT measured and fitted to the bore.. ...
Luck is not the way to increase your chances of getting 300,000 miles out of a rebuilt Mercedes Diesel engine...

some new hacks
 

Hi
Well last week I made a base to set the IP on the lathe, kind off like something I did before but much nicer this time, today I was checking out and re rebuilding some injectors, I got a really big manometer at the habitat for humanity store, set up some pipes and get a set off injectors and pump calibrated today, I only got to change the injectors I need to get a new gasket to change the IP and figure what to do with the 82 emission controls to set up the 78 IP, it is very interesting to see how they spray and I may need to get some more stuff like some flasks and maybe a new set off nozzles for the next time.
It should be really nice to get a stroboscopic light to take some pictures off the spray and get a clear view off the spray pattern, I can see some off the shape and definitely some mist coming out.

I guess I did follow on part off the manual specifications for the engine rebuild but this rebuild was more like a try out run than a full up to specifications than a complete rebuild there was a bunch off stuff that I needed to change and some more machining on the head, I did no put new pistons, or new valves or valve guides, etc.

This is my favourite picture

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...s-p1100276.jpg

Cool!

As for the mists be aware of the nastiness of atomised fuel ending up in your lungs - wear a mask or try to cover your test tubes so you don't pressurise them or allow the mists of yuk to escape.

Good job! Using my machinists hydraulic press I have pressed out most of my own liners. The pressure builds up til you swear the block will explode then moves with a huge noise. I always wonder if this time the block will explode instead of the liner going in.