I rubbed it when it was out and the result is what you see. It had some dark residue on it when it came out.

I didn't worry so much about that. Hearing rattling as you drop a trans pan sort of clouds up your day.....

Here's where the screws came from
 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1315163536

This is the looking into the centre casing from the front - bell house casing removed.

There should be some shims fitted between the cover and the bell house casing. The gap isn't meant to be big enough for screws to fall through though...

The more I think about this the more I think you are better off with your other transmission.

If you have the time / interest / energy I'd like to see a picture of the condition of the splines on the front planet assembly... (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/299729-advice-reqd-shaft-spline-wear-measurements-possible-fix-722-118-transmission.html)

Incredible image and fault tracing, thank you Army.

I agree completely. At this point I am not messing any further with this trans.

I had always wanted to tear down an automatic trans, but I had planned to try something less complicated (like the BW35 in my old Volvo 164e).

We'll see if I can arrange to get this brought back from the shop when it's done.... Not sure if I want/need any further adventure. :D

I'm sorry to be so late with my 722.118 DIY - expect to see it this week - so long as life doesn't get in the way. It has gotten so big - too big - I'm at 85 pictures and 6000 words... I felt guilty and asked vstech if the forum really wanted such a monster thread. The answer was encouraging - but still, I am trying to slim it down and cut out the chit chat. So it takes a bit longer to get it ready...

Having done the job I'm of the opinion that if you can refurbish a cylinder head then you'll find a 722.1 transmission rebuild a piece of piss - easy peasy! The only problem is that it will take a long time to do it. To be honest I'm more worried about adjusting the transmission when it is back in the car - that's why I've stuck my nose into this thread...

I wasn't even worried about finding all of those little bits from the valve body again as they whistled past my ears!

^^ in anticipation of its publication I am going to collect a large supply of English Ale to enhance my comprehension....

That won't help you need to come over here on holiday again and get really immersed in the culture and the slang!

Not to worry, main thing is to get it right.

If it has to come out at that length, just mind that you keep paragraphs to three sentences or less wherever possible. That will make it much easier to follow than some of the one-page 'bricks' I have seen here....

Now I feel like Charlie Brown
 

With my wagon playing the role of Lucy holding the football.

A local shop installed my 'good used' transmission over the weekend.

What a difference.... Now the behaviour is worse. It only has first and it slips like hell in first.

We're praying it's just sticky valves. We threw in a litre of Lucas on Sunday and drove it around the parking lot for a while. The tech is going to do the same today (driving at slow speeds) and tomorrow.

If no luck by then we are considering having it power-flushed.

This trans sat for a year with no fluid. Prior it hardly moved for four years, but was still in the car and full of decent-coloured ATF.

Feel free to laugh at will here, it's a circus act for sure.

:deadhorse:

That is just $%&^.

I've got some pictures up of the valve body bits in this thread now

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304903-722-118-automatic-transmission-rebuild-monster-diy.html

After you take a valve body apart and marvel at the engineering, you also understand that there is nothing in a can that is going to clean all the silt out of it. See the end of Army's rebuild thread.

I am not sure about your reference to 'nothing in a can'. If you mean the use of the Lucas, that was Sunday afternoon desperation.

What I am now speaking about is a transmission shop pressure-flushing it with a machine. If you have a problem with that, please be clear as to why.

Thanks

Question
 

Could a sticking kickdown solenoid produce these symptoms?

You said the replacement transmission only works in first and that it "slips like hell in first".

Tackling the stuck in first bit -

Yes I think the kick down system will kick down from second to first (but I'm not 100% sure as first in these gearboxes is hardly usable - especially on the flat - so it might only do a 4 to 3; 3 to 2; or even a 4 to 2... I need to investigate this to be sure.)

This is easy to check just unplug the wire at the solenoid.

Tackling the slipping in first bit -

No the kick down system shouldn't make the gears slip.

I think rs899 is saying that if you look at the fine grain silt that I found in the valve body on my transmission and then look at the small spaces in which it exists you can imagine that any product that comes "in a can" is unlikely to clean it out.

I agree with rs899 - no flush - be it a super duper transmission flush at a transmission shop or a high tec especially formulated by NASA monkeys in space solution in a can is going to shift that kind of silt inside the valve body. Why? There isn't enough flow going through the valve body to move it - there are too many dead ends.

However, whether a perfectly clean valve body is the answer to your problem or not is a totally different thing.

My advice
 

I realise that this new problem is a real kick in the teeth.

I don't think you should be removing any more transmissions until you've done some investigative work on the one that is now fitted in the car.

[If the solenoid related advice above doesn't help]

If I were you (knowing what I know now) I would.

1) Drain transmission fluid

2) Remove valve body clean the outside with a little bit of brake cleaner and put it in a clean plastic bag.

3) Follow the procedure I've written for checking the adjustment of the brake bands in this post

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2787592-post36.html

You just need some compressed air to actuate the brake band pistons.

It is a simple process to do - though I guess a bit messy with dripping transmission fluid...

4) If you don't see any problems with the measurements and observations in step 3 then you should be able to get second gear...

because

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...9&d=1313998650

...the clutches are only used for 3 and 4

I suppose it's already broken so pressure flushing can't break it worse. Does the magic liquid somehow know that its supposed to deposit the crud in the machine rather than leave it in this or that part of the valve body or this or that solenoid? There is no substitute for taking things apart cleaning, and fixing what's broken. This isn't like working on a clogged toilet.....

Ahhh but when I get to the stage that Zacharias is at I bet I'll want to treat it like a clogged toilet - I bet he does too!

The solenoid issue is probably a red herring but I have to check.

The issue now is timing. I have basically run out of worktime for cars this fall as I have other commitments (house).

I have no problem with your suggestions Army but if I go that route it will be next spring. And I had planned to drive this car for the winter months.

You mean I can go at it with a plunger and some drain cleaner? Whyinthehelldidnchasayso in the first place :D?

I got my sense of humour back today. Well sort of.

What is driving me bats here is that this transmission was perfect. No ifs or buts.

However now one thing bothers me. This 722.117 came out of a 240d. I put it into a 300td (non turbo). But I kept the torque convertor from the 240.

Honestly it never crossed my mind to swap TCs. Did I screw up on that....?