oil line on top of turbo LEAKING
 

On my 85 300d the hard oil line that is on top of the turbo is leaking something awful! I have tried to throw a little jb weld on there until i could replace line but it didn't last but a day. The hard line is OK but it is cracked where the line meets the part that bolts to the turbo. Can anyone give me a correct part name or number? I have been searching but I'm not coming up with anything useful. Thanks!!!

Turbo oil supply line. Some people have silver soldered successfully if my memory is correct.

It sounds like you are missing a clamp.

More than one person on this forum has reported a crack in that location so I doubt it needs a clamp.

There is some Threads on the issue.

If you decide to have it Brazed don't for get to go inside the tube and clean out the Burned Oil as what ever is inside of the tubing will end up in the Turbo Bearings.

If the Clamp at the end of the Cylinder Head that steadies the Tubing is no good it is going to vibrate an break again.

There is more than one Inlet Tubing meaning you will need your Chassis Number and/or the Engine number (prices from an internet source).
Turbo Oil supply/Inlet Line/Tubing
A 617 180 09 27 MSRP $199.00 Actual price $149.25
A 617 180 13 27 MSRP $210.00 Actual Price $157.50

N 007603 3014104 Banjo Bolt Seal Rings/Crush Washers
A 442 187 01 80 Oil Inlet Gasket

You can find that line at PNP for about $10. I pulled one off a w116 300SD and one off a 84 W123 300D. same engine more or less, but the bends are different. some of the one`s from the junk yards are good, but look closely where the clamps are tightened down. I have seen some with holes worn through.

If that clamp and bracket isn`t securely fastened on the back of the head. the line will crack on the other end down at the oil filter housing. I have personal experience on that.

That is a high pressure oil line going to the turbo. bubble gum won`t fix it.

Charlie

Sounds like I'm fixing to spend some money! The line had been brazed on before I got the car. I don't think I will be able to solder it anymore now that the Jb weld has been applied. If that possible I would rather go that route and not have to remove the line or purchase a new one. Funding is tight as with most.

How hard was it to pull the line off at the junk yard? I'm wondering where this line goes to and if it's accessible from the ground.

Just came across this guy who made his own hose, any opinions??
http://www.ptaaron.com/oil-line/

I googled these part numbers and come up with nothing, also tried the names and it was a blank. could you direct me to those links or the site where I could plug in those part numbers???

Those are the Mercedes Part Numbers. I gave you the whole part number but for some reason they do not use the letter "A" when you run it through a parts catalog; so try dropping the A.
I will PM you the site where I know the Inlet tubing part numbers work.

For some reason the Banjo Crush Washers would not show up at that parts site.

I recently needed a turbo oil feed line customized and the local hydraulic shop brazed a new fitting on there for it. I am sure such a shop could repair the crack as well for cheap. And as stated the line is quite available at the junkyard. Did you prep the suface well for the jbweld? It should have held easily enough.

The line is easy to remove.

Remove the air filter housing.

2 13mm bolts at the Turbo.
1 10mm bolt at the Air Filter mount.
1 13mm bolt at the back of the Head.
1 19mm Banjo bolt at the Oil Cooler.

Then snake the line out from the top.

Wash the old grease and grime from the line, and then blow it out good with some spray Brake Cleaner to blow out any dirt, grit, grime, old oil residue from the donor engine.

Charlie

I had a shop build me one out of braided stainless steel. For what it cost, I could have gotten 5 out of the junkyard or gotten my leaky OE fixed about 20 times. Not my brightest investment.

Guess I'm going to try and put more Jb weld on it until these parts can get ordered. It's leaking something terrible! I'm starting to fill with half used and half new oil lol I can't afford 4 a quart every day

I'd be reluctant to drive it under those conditions. The pressure to your turbo bearings will be low. I'd try rubber and hose clamps if the crack is in a place which allows their use.