On my 85 300d the hard oil line that is on top of the turbo is leaking something awful! I have tried to throw a little jb weld on there until i could replace line but it didn't last but a day. The hard line is OK but it is cracked where the line meets the part that bolts to the turbo. Can anyone give me a correct part name or number? I have been searching but I'm not coming up with anything useful. Thanks!!!

Turbo oil supply line. Some people have silver soldered successfully if my memory is correct.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I did silver soldered my year ago,still work fine.

It sounds like you are missing a clamp.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

More than one person on this forum has reported a crack in that location so I doubt it needs a clamp.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

There is some Threads on the issue.

If you decide to have it Brazed don't for get to go inside the tube and clean out the Burned Oil as what ever is inside of the tubing will end up in the Turbo Bearings.

If the Clamp at the end of the Cylinder Head that steadies the Tubing is no good it is going to vibrate an break again.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There is more than one Inlet Tubing meaning you will need your Chassis Number and/or the Engine number (prices from an internet source).
Turbo Oil supply/Inlet Line/Tubing
A 617 180 09 27 MSRP $199.00 Actual price $149.25
A 617 180 13 27 MSRP $210.00 Actual Price $157.50

N 007603 3014104 Banjo Bolt Seal Rings/Crush Washers
A 442 187 01 80 Oil Inlet Gasket

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You can find that line at PNP for about $10. I pulled one off a w116 300SD and one off a 84 W123 300D. same engine more or less, but the bends are different. some of the one`s from the junk yards are good, but look closely where the clamps are tightened down. I have seen some with holes worn through.

If that clamp and bracket isn`t securely fastened on the back of the head. the line will crack on the other end down at the oil filter housing. I have personal experience on that.

That is a high pressure oil line going to the turbo. bubble gum won`t fix it.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I googled these part numbers and come up with nothing, also tried the names and it was a blank. could you direct me to those links or the site where I could plug in those part numbers???

Those are the Mercedes Part Numbers. I gave you the whole part number but for some reason they do not use the letter "A" when you run it through a parts catalog; so try dropping the A.
I will PM you the site where I know the Inlet tubing part numbers work.

For some reason the Banjo Crush Washers would not show up at that parts site.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Im still looking for this part if anyone has a line on it, thanks!

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1985 300D (CA, 173K)

Dynamite Biodiesel Co-op, Phoenix,AZ

I had the same thing happen to me and it was horrible! Huge ammounts of oil spewing out for such a small crack. I also tried the jb weld and it didn't hold for long.

I ended up taking it to a hose type shop here in Temecula, CA called topline. They gave me 2 options. To remove the JB weld and silver solder over the crack or to cut the metal tubing off the line and replace it w/ steel braided line and use the original connections on each side. I went with the solder and it's been fine so far. If I remember correctly, there is a gasket on the turbo side of the line so make sure you don't skip that step. $200 is a lot of money, i would just get it repaired.

Let us know what you ended up doing.

well with school, work, and getting married I have just managed to get the line off and I tried to silver sodder the crack but I dont think my torch got hot enough. I did manage to burn off all the old jb weld and make room for some new haha then comes the hard part. In the process of re attaching the line I just cant seem to get it lined up correctly to attach the lower banjo bolt to the oil filter housing. I honestly dont think I could have bent the tube from heating the end that goes into the turbo but that s about all I can think off. Or it may be routed wrong and not letting it bend properly to attach. Im going to mess with it again, I have had to purchase a 55 gallon drum of gojo and take baths with it after working underneath this car haha

Did you buy new crush washers or reuse the old ones?

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1985 300D (CA, 173K)

Dynamite Biodiesel Co-op, Phoenix,AZ

The part number is: 007603-014106