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Thanks guys, yes I am in Texas and it is still hot. I appreciate all of the information you guys are saying. Where is this sticky you speak of, can't find it. A link would be great. I am still working on the a/c, not in a rush this is a 5th car, but want to do it right. Was thinking r12, but only found one shop and he wanted $9.50 an ounce. I am waiting on the new drier to arrive and then will be ready to move forward.
Also found a AC Parts shop that can rebuild the old compressor for $149, which was an AC/Delco. The one I bought is a Murray/Four Seasons, this one I paid $190 for. Is the AC Delco better or does it matter? |
Are you saying you already purchased a reman? If so I would just go with it.
There is some info on how the compressor should be oriented. There is an "X" on the case that needs to be either up or down and I think it's possible to get one that will mount upside down. Plenty of info here if you search R4. $9.50 an ounce. Ouch! At those prices you could "tool up" and do it yourself with help from the forum. That way you could service it yourself in the future with R12 from ebay or somewhere... I guess it depends on how much you like getting dirty :D Do you know where your expansion valve is? You'll need to pull it and at least inspect it and flush your evaporator plus all the hoses. I just re-did my entire system and it wasn't near as bad as I had envisioned ;) |
Tex599, Where in Texas are you ? You might get lucky if people know that....
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wow what a rip off! unless that's ALL he charges for, no labor, no parts... |
Live in Fort Worth, TX, so if anyone knows somebody that can do R12 at a reasonable rate let me know.
Expansion valve, behind the glove box right? 1980sd, how did you flush your system? |
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Quest/Clean and flush aerosol (CA-1) | A/C System Cleaner | AutoZone.com Smelled like some sort of citrus stuff. I replaced everything but my evaporator but I used this stuff to flush it out. It has a tube with a rubber stopper for shooting it into the lines. I pretty much just followed the directions on the can. I hooked a hose up to the line leaving the evaporator so I could see what was coming out and I gathered a lot of funk! You'll need compressed air as well but my little nail-gun compressor worked fine. The best method would be to blow it out with some inert gas with a "pulse-gun" to keep moisture out of the system though... You'll need to do your condenser as well as your hoses so just get used to the idea that everything needs to be disconnected. It's not that bad once you get started. My expansion valve was behind my instrument cluster but yours may be behind the glove box. I'd consider that a plus because you can leak-test without figuring a work-around for having no instruments. It'll need to come out and be replaced as well. I have little AC experience but managed to get mine working using all backyard/DIY methods other than charging the system. I paid someone to do that. Saving $$ is secondary to the satisfaction I get from figuring stuff out and tinkering with cars. Good luck and don't get in a big hurry! Lots of good resources here! |
Ok.. should have done this way back..... TEX599... just look at my signature for references. If you read all of each of them ( not chain elongation ) you will be way ahead of the game...
This first one is the authorization to use pressure for leak checking and vent the nitrogen/r22...just as reference... ''Releases of CFCs or HCFCs that are not used as refrigerants. For instance, mixtures of nitrogen and R-22 that are used as holding charges or as leak test gases may be released.'' from:Complying With The Section 608 Refrigerant Recycling Rule | Ozone Layer Protection - Regulatory Programs | US EPA ''Technicians are required to pass an EPA-approved test given by an EPA-approved certifying organization to become certified under the mandatory program. Section 608 Technician Certification credentials do not expire.'' from: Complying With The Section 608 Refrigerant Recycling Rule | Ozone Layer Protection - Regulatory Programs | US EPA This is an open book test. It does not cost much. It can be done over the internet including paying for it. it allows you to buy R12 at many places that you do not even know carry it... in fact many times the ' first day on the job counter help' do not know they have it in stock... if you have your license in your pocket and ask the manager ' presto' !!!!! But typically ebay or CList is cheapest way to get it... I paid $18 for 12 oz of R134a a month ago ( for my Ford ) ... bummer, but means the old price difference is pretty small now... |
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I asked about it at a couple of parts stores and got blank stares but I didn't have a card to WHIP OUT! |
You have to be able to whip something out of your pants to be effective...
I do not have mine... I accidentally acquired the 7 cans of R12 I have...and you know I know and respect the rules... also have my can of R22, big nitrogen cylinder, etc... How about this? http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/technicians/608certs.html |
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