Vacuum system simplification.
 

I've recently purchased a MityVac and I've been having a lot of fun sucking fluids out of reservoirs and chasing vacuum leaks on my 1982 240d. One of the leaks I've discovered is under a black plastic box on top of my valve cover. Inside is a little white valve with three vacuum lines attached. The lines leak and the valve itself also leaks vacuum. I've discovered the valve part number is 002-997-53-36, and my local dealer says it costs $75 for a new one and oh, they don't make them anymore. In searching I've found some evidence that these can be removed and the vacuum system thus simplified.

I found this thread by Brian Carlton, but it was focused on a 300SD with a 617 engine and automatic transmission. I'm guessing I have an even easier job with the 616 and manual transmission combination my car has, but when I chase the lines down I get confused and since my valve doesn't work properly, I'm having a hard time understanding which lines to plug. I"m guessing that in my car, the only thing this operates is the EGR system, but I have a line from it that looks like it does something with the crankcase ventilation and that oil separator thing that's supposed to separate oil from the crankcase gases and feed it back to the oil sump before sending the remaining gases back into the intake but in reality just leaks oil all over the damn place. Any help?

I would think all you would absolutely HAVE to have is the brake booster and the fuel cutoff system on a manual 240D to drive it.

When you remove the lines to the egr on a 617 do you have to take the egr off and block it? what happens if you dont?

Well, I still want it to drive well, also I'd like the locks to work again. That's why I started down this road.

There isn't very much to go wrong with the vacuum system on a 240D. It is about as simple as they come. Door locks are very easy to diagnose with a mighty vac.

Don't know if it helps and not sure what the odd part on yours is. But, on my 1983 240D with auto trans I removed that vacuum block on the valve cover entirely along with all the vac lines to the EGR. I think my vac system is as simple as I can make it. There is a line to the trans that tees into the vac control valve on the injection pump and the lines that go into the cabin for the door locks, climate control and engine shutoff.

My discussion regarding removal of the 3-2 valves was strictly related to the 300 turbos.

With the 240, it depends on the year. Some use vacuum to control both the speed of the shift and the timing of the shift. If vacuum is lost, the shifts become very firm and very late. The engine shifts at very high rpm's...........if it shifts at all. These vehicles do not have a Bowden cable.

However, as mentioned above, later 240's function very similar to the 300 turbo and do have a Bowden cable.

I'll need to defer to those that own such vehicles as I don't have any practical experience with the 240.

I'm courious too! "Less is more" I'm hoping!!! lol