82 240D Blower motor not working
 

I recently ordered a new fan switch from Phil and got it installed today, turned the key no fan. So I checked the #8 fuse it looked good, pulled it out just to make sure looks good. So I pulled the blower motor out and it looked fine, but just to double check I removed the blower motor from my 83 300D that I know works and still no fan? Is there anything else I can check...I really need that fan working it is cold down here and the 240D is my dependable daily driver.

Thanks in advance

I think you are going to need to get an ohm meter or test light bulb and trace where electricity IS and is NOT going from the battery to your fan...

Are ALL other electrical things on your car working just fine ?

Also, in the mean time ... .you could hard wire ( with appropriate size inline fuse ) your blower with an on off switch in the car... it is probably already pretty cold up there....

Good idea for a quick fix - but what would you suggest? It can't draw much more than an Amp or so... I've just checked vstech's look after your blowers thread and I can't see any power ratings on the blower motor I pulled...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305936-everybody-better-take-care-their-123-blowers.html

As the blower motors for cars with AC are different (says in the thread linked above) do you know if they need more power?

While the fan control switches are in position such that the fan SHOULD turn on, wiggle the key switch and see if it comes on. I've seen a flaky ignition switch cause this trouble before.

Army , I don't know what else you mean.... it seems that the electricity is not getting to the blower and tracing down the route it Should take...and finding the point at which it is not making that Next Step seems like the only logical method... perhaps I did not understand your question...

Sorry I was referring to the in-line fuse quick fix you suggested (I highlighted the text but then lazily didn't remove the other information). What size fuse would be appropriate?

Like you say it would be best to protect any quick fix wiring with a fuse; particularly as in my experience most of my quick fixes become permanent features and then get called "character"!

EDIT - I've changed the quote in my first post to make what I'm on about a bit clearer (hopefully)

I just fixed an 82 240 this morning.
pull the fuse cover, pull the #8 fuse, and look VERY CLOSELY at the holder end at the top, the center will likely have a bit of plastic melted sticking out of it. get a small knife, and clean it out, I bet your blower works again...

Check for power at the #8 fuse. If it's hot, check for power at the switch. If that too is hot, then check at the blower resistors.

As for the quick fix, I just did one yesterday on mine, but I was able to wire it so that the power is routed through the original 16 amp fuse and the original resistor array. My meter measure current up to 10 amps, so I did some checking on the low and middle settings. I got up to 10 amps starting current with the setting I decided to make semi-permanent, which then drops to about 8. Consider yourself lucky you aren't dealing with ACCIII like I am.

Wow that draws way more power than I thought - thanks for the info Skippy.

be sure you are checking the springy side of the fuse, not the riveted side...

10 Amps doesn't surprise me, but I didn't know for sure and was afraid to doubt the 1 Amp statement for fear of attack.

The rule on all these kinds of things for the fuse would be exactly the same fuse rating which it uses in the car.... Never ever bigger.....

I always size the wire for the coolest spec based on the fuse rating.
so for a 16A fuse, I'd run minimum #12 wire this is overkill for a motor load, as the startup amps is why the fuse is large... unless there is a bind...

Wow...thanks for all the replies I appreciate it. I will check the fuse holder first then check it to see if it is hot. I will check that first and report back. Thanks again everyone!

Sure

But I was thinking that if fuse number 8 was say 16 amps what else is on that "circuit"?

I could be wrong - I don't have the wiring diagram to hand (or the will to check!) - but if other things are also protected by the same fuse a lower fuse rating for the blower motor "on its own temporarily rigged wire" would be appropriate wouldn't it?