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#1
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bye bye fan clutch
My fan clutch on the 300 SDL seems to have a bit more play than i like. I d hate to find out at 5000 rpm how out of ballance it might be.
Has anyone attempted to install a low clearance electric fan and remove the clutch all together?
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sold 1987 300 SDL 318K 126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14) Born on date 11/07/1986 2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust ![]() flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup |
#2
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No I have not been tempted the factory system works to well. But I'm sure you could rig one up the problem will be keeping the engine at the proper temp.
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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#3
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engine temp
well yes, and with the fickleness of head in relation to overheating is the big issue. with my fan clutch being possibly comprimised i worry about that.
the benifits i can see with going electric as opposed with replacing the clutch is in fuel savings and cost savings. i think its around 300 for a new fan clutch and for less than a 1/3 i could get a electric fan with a setable thermostat. Im not worried about blowing the hot air off the engine as i dont have the bottom pan on the engine bay so the climate controled/heated bay will never be an issue. From what i have heard the cooling provided by a fan is really most usefull from 0-15 mph. after that enough cooling is provided by air forced in through the front. so why waste energy pushing air around at 15-150 mph ![]()
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sold 1987 300 SDL 318K 126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14) Born on date 11/07/1986 2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust ![]() flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup |
#4
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If the fan clutch is working properly, it is my understanding that the fan should be more or less free wheeling if the engine is cool enough, so it shouldn't waste any energy. Another consideration in calculating fuel usage is the efficiency of the electrical fan. The electricity isn't free, it has to made by the alternator, which isn't close to 100% efficiency. Add to that the fan motor itself isn't 100% efficient, and you are probably pretty close to the same energy usage as the engine driven fan. Would be interesting to do the calculations to figure out which was more efficient, but I think I would put my money with the engine-driven fan. Less "middle-men" so to speak in the energy conversion.
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
#5
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but the electric fans only draw power when their thermostat says that coolent in the radiator is over Xdegrees. otherwise no power is used.
free spinning or not (and mine is not very free spinning right now) i would think that more energy is used in a mechanical fan than an electric fan. this would apply to highway driving, the inverse would be true for city driving i think. but than again are there any vehicles with out a waterpump/fan that are not front wheel drive?
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sold 1987 300 SDL 318K 126.125 (OM603.961) (722.321 trans) (head#14) Born on date 11/07/1986 2.5" Flowmaster Exhaust ![]() flex-a-lite dual electric cooling fan conversion now have a 1985 toyota diesel pickup |
#6
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What do you mean by play? Does it feel too easy to spin or does it wobble? If it wobbles, get it checked immediately. A wobbly fan quickly develops an appetite for radiators. And we're talking of an early 603 here.
Contact member ke6dcj (Neil) and ask what electric fan he used when he dropped a C36 engine in his 300TE. I think he replaced the front fan, not the clutch fan, though. Sixto 95 S420 87 300SDL |
#7
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Quote:
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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein |
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